Timing Belt Snapped.

[usualdeviant]

OK so I fixed my ticking problem. I used a stethoscope and found the noise was coming from the timing belt tensioner area. I replaced applicable bolts and springs in that area, along with the timing belt and tensioner. No idea why the old one (which was still pretty new) was making noise. But hey, I put the new parts in and away went the noise. Going to adjust valve clearance back to spec when I get new plugs.

[tonyloban]

This would honestly be cheaper:

buy complete running known m20 engine; do all service you can afford before installing it.

drive car be happy.

I think so too. Only problem is I can't find one right now. Posted in local forum. Nothing yet :/

[Wanganstyle]

I'd be more confident in that than pulling out valves and replacing rocker arms and what not.

This would honestly be cheaper:

buy complete running known m20 engine; do all service you can afford before installing it.

drive car be happy.

[tonyloban]

Depending on your confidence and if you have someone to lend a hand you can pick up a running m20 complete for under $400 and just swap it in.

I'd be more confident in that than pulling out valves and replacing rocker arms and what not.

[akorcovelos]

Depending on your confidence and if you have someone to lend a hand you can pick up a running m20 complete for under $400 and just swap it in.

[tonyloban]

Ok, so there's a couple things I don't know the exact name of if someone can please help me with that so I can finish the list to order the stuff.

So the the thing that the camshaft lobes move to push the valve in. One of them broke and I have no idea how to search for that, haha. Can't find the name of it. Also, There's a hose that goes from the intake manifold to the valve cover. Is that the breather hose?

And where can I find two exhaust valves to buy? Should I buy new or look for a m20 part out or what? Can't afford a whole rebuild kit.


EDIT: Ok, so those would be rocker arms. and pretty sure that hose is a breather hose.

MAIN QUESTION: Should I look for an m20b25 part out and used valve and rocker arm or go new? I am tight on budget but I DEFINITELY don't want to be pulling off the head again anytime soon.

[tonyloban]

The smooth one is the good one to use. That probably explains the difference in look.



Order a new replacement spring too. Never know how long it's been in there for.

Yeah, that's what I have on my list.

[Madhatter]

The smooth one is the good one to use. That probably explains the difference in look.



Order a new replacement spring too. Never know how long it's been in there for.

[tonyloban]

Thats the tensioner all right. It's also the cheap one. It looks like the bolt holding the tensioner in place is doing it's job because the spring is still nice and straight where it should be. So it looks like the bearing probably collapsed or failed in the tensioner which is why it is on an angle. It will most likely be the cause of all your trouble.

That's what I was thinking. I wasn't sure if it was the tensioner or not because the one in ordering looks different.

[Madhatter]

This piece

tensioner?

Thats the tensioner all right. It's also the cheap one. It looks like the bolt holding the tensioner in place is doing it's job because the spring is still nice and straight where it should be. So it looks like the bearing probably collapsed or failed in the tensioner which is why it is on an angle. It will most likely be the cause of all your trouble.

[goldenbb]

Just pull the head now. My retrospective experience on the E30 goes something like: Pull the whole drivetrain as soon as you buy and just fix everything at once. That advice might extend to any used BMW.

[usualdeviant]

Update: dialed it down to .009" eccentric-to-valve and the noise is less now. No more sqeaking, just a bit of random ticking. I'll try and keep you posted.

[akorcovelos]

The guy I bought my 325is from snapped the belt and threw a new one on. Car actually ran decent in normal driving conditions. It had ZERO balls when you tried to flog it. It literally wouldn't spin the tires if you dropped the clutch. When it hit around 4500RPM it would "wake up" and take off, probably because the internal forces were enough to pull the 6 bent exhaust valves tight enough to seal. I drove it for a few thousand miles like that before rebuilding the engine.

[dnguyen1963]

Yes.

[tonyloban]

Positive. If you take out a valve you'll see they wear a little ring nearly an inch from the valve. The valve is curved on the back side and flares out much larger than the (slightly less) 7mm of the stem. The guide is driven hard into the head and doesn't flex/move. If you bend a valve it is because you hit a piston.



The roller thing is the timing belt tensioner. When its set in place properly it keeps tension on your timing belt. If it was all sorts of bent and/or moving around, there is a good chance something failed with the tensioner. Its kind of tucked to the right of the water pump, there is no way it should touch the front timing cover if the tensioner was in place properly and in working condition. Did you find the spring and pin that sit between the water pump and the tensioner?

This piece

tensioner?