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Das Beast: My E30 track / street build
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We'll dry sump this M20 next rebuild. Just because. This time we're going with a trap door oil pan. I'll post plans when it's done for anyone to duplicate.
Remove stock baffle
Cut off the stock sump
Fine finish so it sits flat
CAD the sides and top
Add baffles
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Upon closer inspection #5 was cracked
New set of forged pistons and rods on the way
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The mystery continues. No cracked rings on 4 or 5. Rings installed the right side up. Rings clocked correctly. No piston damage. Moving on to valves.
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GT3076R aka GT30R ball bearing water cooled turbo rated for 525 HP on re-flanged downpipe.
Compressor: 4" inlet, 2" outlet, 0.64 A/R, 57 mm inducer, 76 mm exducer, trim 56
Turbine: T4 undivided inlet, 3" V-Band outlet, 0.63 A/R, 60 mm inducer, 57 mm exducer, trim 84
With the new 10:1 compression ratio and this fast spool turbo it should be quite a ride.
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New bitch tube with AN16 vent.. It's gonna breathe much better.
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We could drill it, plug and grind holes but that sound like a PITA. Going with the modified cast pan for now. Long term I'm going to scan a pan flange, recreate in CAD and do a custom pan
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Originally posted by dvallis View Post
Most but not all of the 528e pan holes line up with the M20 block. On to plan B ... cast oil pan butchery. I'll be giving away the pan on for-sale, since it was donated to me.
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It's a vacuum and afr thing. The stock throttle body has inlets between it an the MAF, one of which goes to the valve cover. Open the oil cap and you change the volume of air from head to intake manifold through a hose. Idle Air controller is supposed to compensate. You might have a defective IAC valve, wiring or hose.
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Originally posted by dvallis View PostBitch tube mod in progress for improved crankcase breather. Will have AN16 fitting welded on end.
On my stock m20 running factory management, when I pull the oil filler cap at idle the engine stumbles. Is this because engine vacuum is sucking unmetered air into the intake through the vent tube? (meaning the stock ECU with an AFM can't handle a vent-to-atmosphere catch-can, and would require the catch-can to be plumbed back into the manifold)
Once I switch to MegaSquirt and a MAP sensor, the vent-to-atmosphere may suck in air at idle but will vent crankcase pressure under load. Both are OK because the MAP sensor is just reading the manifold pressure.
Is that how it works?
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Originally posted by dvallis View Post
I talked to the MRT guy on eBay, His kit fits stock struts with the Z3 rack. Also found this thread that shows the MRT kit installed. It puts the knuckle really close to the Stoptech rotors he's using. My rotors are also way thicker than stock.(11.75" x 1.25" Hawk DTC) Not feeling grinding the knuckle for clearance. Any comments?
A good rule of thumb is 10PSI per 1K RPM, Some spec E30 guys run the bigger sump pan, Maybe a paul poore makes it. I assume there will still be oiling problem. Vac oil pan baffle has trap doors which help.
If you're using head studs they usually need another torque after a few heat cycles especial with MLS gaskets.
Id pull vacuum on the valve cover into a venturi into the exhaust with a catch can in the middle of the routing. As long as your running no cat, high flow mufflers, it should pull a vacuum.
Stim tech I think made a billet valve cover with dual vac ports, It looks strong, wont crack that one! Id even consider to be a head girdle...
Vband clamps can be so annoying. Especially when they use a stainless nut on stainless stud. They seize instantly!! If you're lucky enough and they are metric you can put a washer and OEM copper nut on them.
Last edited by moatilliatta; 01-11-2021, 12:33 PM.
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Getting ready for engine pull.
Bitch tube mod in progress for improved crankcase breather. Will have AN16 fitting welded on end.
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We started with good compression on #1
But not so great on #4 and #5. Engine pull and teardown underway.
Most but not all of the 528e pan holes line up with the M20 block. On to plan B ... cast oil pan butchery. I'll be giving away the pan on for-sale, since it was donated to me.
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