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Das Beast: My E30 track / street build

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Ah, I see what you mean. Will have to get under the hood and check where those structural ribs are.

    BUT I CAN'T .... since Austin is under quarantine and the car is at Rob's shop. Sigh ......

    Nice ride BTW. Looks great.

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Mine was FG/CF also. Still had bracing so it could maintain some structure.

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  • dvallis
    replied
    I have a fiberglass hood. My vents go where I want them to :-)

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    You can't get too far to the edge anyways because of the bracing structure. This gives you a good idea of where my old vent setup was positioned, the side vents were as far forward as they could be.

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Wow. I totally don't remember talking about that. Gotta love the R3V community though. Think about hood vents and you get a CFD analysis the next day. :-) Thanks!

    Back to the nuts & bolts of it. Check the pics above. Close to the leading edge seems kind of useless since they're nowhere near the turbo. Slightly rear of middle would pick up the turbo and some downpipe. Looks like the best compromise.

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    We talked about this earlier in the thread, but you don't want to put vents that far back on the hood if you are looking to extract air. Positive pressure has built back it on the hood by about the halfway point. The back of the vent so close to the cowl is actually going to force air into the back of the engine bay. Shorter vents much closer to the leading edge of the hood are going to be more effective.

    Click image for larger version

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  • dvallis
    replied
    New turbine installed. Just need the down pipe touched up and we're back in business.

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    Last edited by dvallis; 03-22-2020, 07:24 PM.

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Pandemic Mechanic

    Back to our regularly scheduled programming.

    There's a lot of heat building up under the hood around the turbo and down pipe, so we're giving it a place to go. Some cardboard engineering to plan the location.




    They come in a set, 7" x 23"



    On to the new turbo snail. Taking this apart again.



    This V-band is getting worse for wear with the heat.



    Rob doing some rework on it with ant-seize



    Taking this off is always fun



    Have to unplug the wideband O2 inside the car to get the down pipe out.



    Here's the patient



    Pinhole leak by the v-band



    Another one near the middle. Will be taking this to the welding shop.



    Getting there



    Taking this frigging flange bolt out is total hell



    Victory!



    New snail on the right. Doesn't look too different, right?



    Here's a better look. Now you can really see the difference. I like that the smaller turbine is open, not divided.



    We're swapping out that damn upper right flange bolt for a stud and nut. More on that tomorrow

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  • dvallis
    replied
    What to do in quarantine?

    Play DCS World of course!

    View from the Radar Intercept Officer cockpit of an F14B, dropping 1000 lb laser guided bombs.


    Bad Hair Day inbound for a ZSU-234


    Boom Shaka Laka



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  • dvallis
    replied
    The Beast is too loud for normal conversation when tooling around. Well, even for shouted conversation. Picked up a pair of aircraft grade headsets and a voice activated intercom box,

    At least Amazon and USPS are still working. Keep Calm and Wash Your Hands




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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    I honestly think your clutch will be fine ---- as long as you don't engine brake, and have a good rev match. First if all, it's not broken/bedded yet, second if all, this is a road race build, not a shocking drag car.

    Bone stock m20 Sachs clutches last me about 45-50 race hours (one season) with no sign of slippage when changing them. Sure it's half the power at 180/180 at the wheels, but again, stock replacement.




    ​​​

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  • dvallis
    replied
    Woah Dub. So much information in one post. :-)

    I'm on pump gas 93. It's just simpler logistics rather than hauling around race fuel. Will pull the rpm psi data next time I'm at the shop.

    What exact clutch and flywheel did you use in that 765 clutch setup? I almost went that way but could not find the known good recipe for M20 + G260. Stack height varies and I didn't have enough parts to experiment.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    STD is the program default in WinPep (Dyno software). Personally use the Dyno as a tool for progression, not to state exactly how much power, so I often forget to change the correction factor when on the rollers, and just make the adjustment when reading the file back, it posting etc. Probably the same for his local tuner.

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  • SLEEPYDUB
    replied
    Nice build man. I just came across this thread bc the bird man posted up your dyno and your build is farily similar to mine (6266 T3 0.81ar, 2.7/885 with 280/274, stock gasket, arp, MS3 Pro Evo full sequential, etc).
    I use a Sach 765 PP and a ceramic 6 puck that works well for reference, but looks like you got that figured out. I went through a few 228mm clutchs with no luck till i swapped to the 240mm setup. Will be going twin disk ceramic next.
    As for you 0.58T4 turbine housing, I used to run one of those on my VR6. It was instant boost. I mean crazy power anytime you step on the gas, almost too much. I didn't like the way the power fell off in the top end with that housing, so I switch to a 1.06AR and even though it was a punch in the face when it came on, I enjoyed it more. But, different goals for different folks. If you're looking for instant power in any gear at any rpm, then thats the one for you. You can expect to lose some power though on the same boost levels. I don't know how i'd feel about that housing with that cam, but I am super interested in seeing your results because I have considered the 0.58 for my M20 when I swap to a T4 housing (have a 0.81ar T4 housing ready to go from my 2JZ).
    As for your idle, you could try cracking the throttle plate a bit more because you said it sounded like it needed more air. And then use timing to create a valley and control the idle rpm.

    Are you on 93 or Ethanol? Judging by your ignition map, id assume pump gas?
    Why did you dyno tuner use the STD correction of the more widely accepted SAE?
    I'd like to see your final timing map to see if he used a timing valley at peak torque or not if you can provide it?
    What rpm are you seeing 10psi at?
    What rpm are you seeing 19psi at?

    Thanks! Great build!

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  • dvallis
    replied
    More Lower ...

    ... is what my Karate teacher used to yell before whacking us with a bamboo shinai. Das Beast needs more lower.

    I dialed the suspension back down from F150 height and carefully backed out the driveway. Nope. Not gonna do it.



    Quick trip to Lowes for material and we're back in business.







    Finally getting a good look at the ride height. We put off doing the rear valence until we figured out the diffuser situation. Going to start looking at that again.



    Just for fun, here's the before picture



    Drove around some more and got the clock up to 225 miles. I couldn't resist and did one WOT 4th gear roll-on. I was shifting early, but still had to lift from WOT in 5th. Going waaayyyy to fast, even for the deserted country road I was on. Back to Driving Miss Daisy for another couple of hundred miles.

    Last edited by dvallis; 03-16-2020, 07:44 AM.

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