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E30 broke down on me...

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  • E30_Narek
    replied
    Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
    I'll check the resistance on that today. Don't want to throw money at it for no reason anymore haha.
    There is reason enough here for me. Plus, a smoke test will probably save you a lot of money down the road.[/QUOTE]
    I had it smoke tested about 2 months ago. I had no vacuum leaks. I doubt a vacuum leak would cause all this though. This only seems to happen when I get below a quarter tank of gas and I also get like 14 mpg.

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  • dnguyen1963
    replied
    I'll check the resistance on that today. Don't want to throw money at it for no reason anymore haha.[/QUOTE]

    There is reason enough here for me. Plus, a smoke test will probably save you a lot of money down the road.

    Leave a comment:


  • E30_Narek
    replied
    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
    You don't say whether the problem began around when you did any of those maintenance items which would make a big difference. You changed a lot of parts and there's always a chance that a new part is defective.

    Otherwise, I'd start with checking all your electrical connections particularly grounds, then a smoke test which will often diagnose bad idle problems, then check fuel pressure preferably while driving.

    This all assumes everything is connected right, that there is no contamination in the fuel tank and that your injectors and fuel are good
    Alright, the problem began December of last year. The car was barely driveable and was doing these exact same symptoms. I changed the intake boot and tried on a new AFM at this time. Nothing happened. Then, I cleaned out my AFM, the ICV, and the throttle body. Again, nothing happened. I finally changed the fuel filter and that almost fixed all my problems. The car was driveable now but it started to have a rough idle when I started it while hot. Then as time progressed, it started hard starting at times when the car was hot along with the rough idle. I started changing some things here and there but they didn't do anything; didn't improve it or make it worse. After a while, it started doing those hiccups/stutters/fuel-cuts but there were very rare. It started throwing the code 1221 which is o2 sensor but after a while that code went away (though I did eventually change this sensor, which changed nothing...). Now, the problem's worse than ever and I'm stuck without a car.

    Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
    I don't see a crank position sensor on you list of replaced parts. That'll do what you describe.
    I'll check the resistance on that today. Don't want to throw money at it for no reason anymore haha.

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  • Ether-D
    replied
    I don't see a crank position sensor on you list of replaced parts. That'll do what you describe.

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    You don't say whether the problem began around when you did any of those maintenance items which would make a big difference. You changed a lot of parts and there's always a chance that a new part is defective.

    Otherwise, I'd start with checking all your electrical connections particularly grounds, then a smoke test which will often diagnose bad idle problems, then check fuel pressure preferably while driving.

    This all assumes everything is connected right, that there is no contamination in the fuel tank and that your injectors and fuel are good

    Leave a comment:


  • E30_Narek
    started a topic E30 broke down on me...

    E30 broke down on me...

    For a few months, my car's had a pretty bad idle and hard starts when hot sometimes. Recently, it's had all that + the car hiccups/hesitates/fuel-cuts when accelerating. I was driving today and it was hiccuping more than usual. On my way home, the car jerked violently every time I gave it gas. If I revved it in neutral, it just seemed to hesitate to redline, fuel-cutting the whole time. I believe this is a fuel related problem. The things that are new on the car are: fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, timing belt (doubt this would even matter in this situation), intake boot, a couple fuel lines, both coolant sensors, oxygen sensor, distributor cap and the rotor. The car currently isn't in any state of driving. The check engine light is NOT on. I did the stomp test anyways to see if it'll throw any codes and I got 1444 which is "no faults." I also tried on a new AFM to see if it'll fix it, but it didn't so I put my old one back on. What could be causing these problems?
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