Sorry for thread bump, new here.
This build inspired me to finally set up a r3v account.
I recently picked up an entire ETA motor, i pistons, S50 crank, and some other goodies to go with my rebuilt head and new OE spec camshaft after reading through your build and some of digger's stuff.
So far I am at a total of $200 out of pocket invested, with bottom end hardware and bearings being the bulk of the remaining cost. I am shooting for ultimate budget build here, as it is my first endeavour in building a "custom" motor. I can't thank you enough for posting your info in here.
I am curious how you are enjoying it thus far.
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2.85 (2.9) Stroker with S50 Crank - it lives!
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I'm fairly certain the dyno wasn't calibrated properly. I instructed them to take it to 7k and the dyno chart stops around 6. With the rpm adjustment i was in the mid 170s whp. One of these days I want to take it to another dyno shop and get the tune checked out and re-do a pull.
The last few months I was having an issue with my megasquirt where I would get no spark. After replacing the BIP373 and poking around with a multimeter for hours I determined that there was a bad lead on the adapter board between the spot where the spark output was soldered in and the actual output to the wiring harness for pin 1. I soldered in a jumper wire and she worked like a charm.
Also got the bluetooth mod done on the megasquirt in the meantime, so I've enjoyed tuning my 30 year old SOHC car via bluetooth. I mean it IS 2018 haha.
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If you ran it on a Dynojet, I bet you would see +10% in your numbers. Mustang dynos notoriously read low. You're probably closer to your goal than you think, which is why it feels quick on the street!
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Based on the HP number, it would appear to me that the o2 number is correct, but also a cam tooth off would do similar (your TQ curve looks weird for an m20).
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Did the AFM delete and put in a bosch ev1 IAT sensor with a custom made harness to hook into the AFM plug.
Ignore the AFR line - its just wrong
Torque - 205 ft-lbs @ 2500 rpm
Power - 156 hp @ 4400 rpm
Got a dyno tune yesterday at zen motors in Atlanta. Not really sure why my numbers are so low. I haven't double checked cam timing and valve clearance lately. It looks like I could definitely go bigger on the cam, but I don't plan on tearing into it anytime soon.
It sucks as far as impressing people on the internet goes, but it makes a heck of a daily. I'd take a bet its one of the fastest 160 whp E30s out there.
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A 3 inch ID AutoZone exhaust pipe will also go in the stock boot with stretching in case a 2.75 inch is hard to find.
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i noticed better throttle response with the afm removed and haven't looked back!
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glad you are working thru all those glitches. This thread could use more pictures or you have a build thread somewhere?
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Oh you didn't delete that with the original MS install? Yeah, you definitely need to do that. The AFM is a major restriction.
But you don't need to get another AFM. Just use a piece of ~2 7/8" tubing (exhaust, pvc, etc) to connect the elbow to a filter. Drill a hole in the tube and RTV the GM temp sensor in place.
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Quick update - ended up buying and assembling a MS2 DIY PNP kit which solved the hesitation issue. She sounds glorious at 7K.
Going to try to get a professional dyno tune done in the next couple of days.
I think I may get a spare AFM and remove the "barn door" so its just a temp sensor. should give OE looks and keep the MS happy, and hopefully get another pony or two.
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180whp shouldn't be an issue. I just did that with a m52 crank eta rods, "i" pistons, 272 cam, stock valves/ports and a dyno tuned chip.
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