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2.85 (2.9) Stroker with S50 Crank - it lives!

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    #46
    Originally posted by zaq123 View Post

    Looking forward to the progress. To make this post useful.... when you will be doing your mockup and will need to install/remove the belt gear on the crank....pull the woodruff key and don't put it back until final assembly. It should save you from using a puller and makes the mockup easier.
    If everything is clean, you shouldn't need a puller. Usually a little rust, grime, or galling for the key is what's holding them on (or all three hehe).
    john@m20guru.com
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      #47
      Thanks for the tip!

      Got the final "final torques" done on the bottom end. this should be the last time I say that haha. I made sure to check clearances again, take a fine file to the areas I ground to remove the burs, and use lots of assembly lube.

      I then was able to disassemble the head completely, and I ordered a bimmerheads 272 billet cam and HD rockers. For a mild street stroker the 272 seemed to be the best cam. I think a 288 would have been too much for what I want. Next step will be getting the headwork done and checking Piston to Valve clearance, and getting the correct head gasket thickness.

      Still progressing slowly but surely.

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        #48
        without ITB it makes sense to go mild with the cam, you cant push water uphill
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #49
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          If everything is clean, you shouldn't need a puller. Usually a little rust, grime, or galling for the key is what's holding them on (or all three hehe).
          the assembly is pretty snug, especially with 2 keys in there. I'm going with 276 cam for my 2.9L. I know I'd want ITBs once she is up and running.

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            #50
            Got the head back from the machine shop this week ( along with a few other goodies in the mail) and have mocked the engine up with the oem + .3mm HG

            I mocked it up with a VR + .3mm HG. The first time I measured P2V with clay the HG and head bolts were unused and I torqued them to spec.

            P2V seems pretty good, all measurements were above 0.07" using the clay method. I will try the dial indicator method next to verify this.

            I then reused the already torqued bolts and the already compressed HG and torqued the head down to spec again ( 22 ft-lb + 90 deg. + 90 deg.)

            I measured Piston to head clearance with 0.05" electrical saulder as well, and i measured the smallest clearance to me 0.02", with most of them between 0.025" and 0.03" . Yikes. Would re-torquing the head gasket have that much of an impact on the clearances?

            I also timed the cam. with the setup I am running it should be + 0.3 mm taller, so i would expect the cam to be about .6 degrees off. When I measured cam timing with a degree wheel I found I had to advance the cam about 1 degree to get it to spec. This is more than I estimated but it is still reasonable.

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              #51
              sounds a bit too tight, was the head warped and machined without being straightened first? this can lead to uneven machining
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                #52
                When i bought the engine it was from a 99k automatic, the PO had it torn down too do a turbo build on the stock rotating assembly. I know he had the head skimmed flat again, but i don't know how much. I measured the depth from the machined surface to the cat surface where the numbers are near cylinder 1 to be about 0.025"

                It's weird the me that p2v was still reasonable with that setup though.

                At this point it seems a .12" MLS is my best bet, hopefully raising the quench height by 0.04" ( to a minimum of 0.06) from the 2.05 HG.

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by sert57 View Post
                  When i bought the engine it was from a 99k automatic, the PO had it torn down too do a turbo build on the stock rotating assembly. I know he had the head skimmed flat again, but i don't know how much. I measured the depth from the machined surface to the cat surface where the numbers are near cylinder 1 to be about 0.025"

                  It's weird the me that p2v was still reasonable with that setup though.

                  At this point it seems a .12" MLS is my best bet, hopefully raising the quench height by 0.04" ( to a minimum of 0.06) from the 2.05 HG.
                  IMO you want 0.040-0.050" quench, this is the consensus of many professionals in the industry, some advocate even smaller but none really advocate much larger than this for a NA engine.

                  since you have variability you'd probably want the smallest to be about 0.035" as a minimum so that needs 0.015" thicker (0.098" ????). the max will be 0.065" which is getting too large but it is what it is....
                  Last edited by digger; 06-22-2017, 04:41 PM.
                  89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                  new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by digger View Post
                    you cant push water uphill
                    I think this is exactly what water pumps do :p

                    Very curious to see where this ends up.
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                      #55
                      Originally posted by Dagamus(NM) View Post
                      I think this is exactly what water pumps do :p

                      Very curious to see where this ends up.
                      in this case it would be called a snail, but that doesnt count
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                        #56
                        Just got the 0.098" MLS gasket. torqued at 20 ft-lbs The Piston - head quench is about 0.047 - 0.050" measured via solder through the spark plug hole, seems right on the money to me ( only checked cylinder 1, I expect the highest gap to be about 0.056"

                        Cr is about 9.7:1

                        I'm onto final assembly and getting her in the car. exciting stuff. Hoping to have her running in a few weeks.

                        cam is times, valves adjusted, and i installed an I.E. oil pan baffle.

                        paring this with #19 bosch type 3 injectors w/ EV1 connectors ( i believe these are the mustang ones)

                        Running a custom sssquid chip for now, once I have more money i will probably go standalone MS2 PNP.
                        Last edited by sert57; 07-05-2017, 06:56 PM.

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                          #57
                          stock cam and head? should be a torquey SOB
                          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                            #58
                            272 bimmerheads cam, hd rockers. Should help some with peak power without loosing much low end torque. Ie longtubes will also be included

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                              #59
                              https://youtu.be/a_xd1pNa9eg
                              It lives

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                                #60
                                gonna stick with motronic?
                                89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                                new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                                Comment

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