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ForcedFirebird's m20 dyno thread.

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  • digger
    replied
    He was going to remove the rotating assembly from it

    Leave a comment:


  • E30-325iS
    replied
    Originally posted by darvo View Post
    Nice Dyno #'s! I recently purchased a set of 12:1 85mm Vac 885 head pistons for a 89.6 and 135mm stroker build but the m54 block I had in mind was thrown away before I got to it.
    Originally posted by darvo View Post
    The pistons are 12:1 for 89.6 and 135mm rods, but the m54 block disappeared after Hurricane María.
    I might be missunderstanding what you are trying to say but you can't put an 885 head on a M54 block.

    Leave a comment:


  • darvo
    replied
    Originally posted by SLEEPYDUB View Post
    I have an 89.6mm S52 crank for sale if you're interested. Can ship to your island if you pay for it. Crank was recently polished within spec, balanced, and even comes with the snout spacer you'll need for the M20. Message me if you're interested in it
    Pmed for shipping quote

    Leave a comment:


  • darvo
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    He needs the 84mm and has the 89.6 (which is putting his pistons way out of the deck - hence the .100" gasket plan).
    The pistons are 12:1 for 89.6 and 135mm rods, but the m54 block disappeared after Hurricane María.

    I only got a E block laying so, I was looking for 139mm rods to use with a 81mm to match the deck height but only found 138mm to use with the pistons.

    The 0.100 gasket is to lower the compression to 11.2-11.5, I would like that CR with my current cam.

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    He needs the 84mm and has the 89.6 (which is putting his pistons way out of the deck - hence the .100" gasket plan).
    His pistons are originally intended for 89.6 so he should get that but he'll need to get the 135 rods to go with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • SLEEPYDUB
    replied
    Ah my bad

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by SLEEPYDUB View Post
    I have an 89.6mm S52 crank for sale if you're interested. Can ship to your island if you pay for it. Crank was recently polished within spec, balanced, and even comes with the snout spacer you'll need for the M20. Message me if you're interested in it

    He needs the 84mm and has the 89.6 (which is putting his pistons way out of the deck - hence the .100" gasket plan).

    Leave a comment:


  • SLEEPYDUB
    replied
    Originally posted by darvo View Post
    Thanks Guys! I'll keep an eye on a 84mm, aint 89.6mm bad for rod/stroke ratio?
    I have an 89.6mm S52 crank for sale if you're interested. Can ship to your island if you pay for it. Crank was recently polished within spec, balanced, and even comes with the snout spacer you'll need for the M20. Message me if you're interested in it

    Leave a comment:


  • darvo
    replied
    Thanks Guys! I'll keep an eye on a 84mm, aint 89.6mm bad for rod/stroke ratio?

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by darvo View Post
    Yup, the 84 would be perfect my main problem is availability where I live. Live on a little island
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    Get one sent to your little island. It will be worth it though getting the original crank you had planned is probably better as the bottom end and midrange torque will be a lot better

    I agree with Digger. Should be able to get one shipped from the states to PR.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    my guess is the differences are mostly breathing mods
    Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Post
    looks like that cam isn't doing shit

    Swapped the diff out, it was smoked. I couldn't even turn the output flanges by hand once it was on the ground. If it was that stuck static, I could only imagine how much it was dragging at top speeds. I wondered why the graph kinda went flat from 5-6000rpm, then dipped, were m20's usually have a smooth curve that peaks at 6k.



    Again, not sure that car will go back to the dyno anytime soon, but will see what I can do.

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Get one sent to your little island. It will be worth it though getting the original crank you had planned is probably better as the bottom end and midrange torque will be a lot better

    Leave a comment:


  • darvo
    replied
    Yup, the 84 would be perfect my main problem is availability where I live. Live on a little island

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Why not use 84mm stroke as that works almost spot on or get another 89.6 crank they aren't expensive in the grand scheme of the overall build process

    Leave a comment:


  • darvo
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Honestly I have not done much with the adjustable gears on the dyno.


    Here's the graphs from Sat.



    81mm crank, 130mm rods, b25 pistons, .080" (2.03mm) off the deck, stock cam (and cam gear), in house rebuilt head, .035 quench, bored throttle body, extrude manifold, eBay headers, single 2.5" exhaust through 2 mufflers. MS1 with a smooth elbow pipe, cone filter.


    [ATTACH]125591[/ATTACH]


    81mm crank, 130mm rods, b25 pistons, .080" (2.03mm) off the deck, IE 272 cam (stock cam gear), in house rebuilt head, .050" quench, stock intake/TB, stock exhaust manifolds, single 2.5" exhaust with a single resonator. Stock ECU re-mapped at the dyno.


    I believe this car "should" have made more power, was actually a little disappointed. Later after watching a video sent by a friend, I can hear a lot of diff noise that was impossible for me to hear in the car while tuning (one car bay with a dyno in it). Doubt we will bring it back to the dyno, just rebuild the diff and send it racing.



    [ATTACH]125592[/ATTACH]
    Nice Dyno #'s! I recently purchased a set of 12:1 85mm Vac 885 head pistons for a 89.6 and 135mm stroker build but the m54 block I had in mind was thrown away before I got to it.

    So I found a set of 138mm rods that I'll use with a 81mm eta crank to build my 2.7i. I'mm just have to deck the block 1mm and put a thicker 0.100" gasket to lower compression to 11.5:1.

    I'll be using my stock 885 head and 284/272 schrick which made my stock b25 anemic down low.

    Looking forward to end results.

    Leave a comment:

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