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M20 Refresh - Suggestions
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If you remove the trans cross member nuts, let the transmission lean back, and pop the slave out, you will have a lot more room to go from the bottom for the top starter bolt.
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Success!
My buddy who is a mechanic came over today to see what was going on.
He tried it once and said it wasn't hitting the flywheel.
Diagnosed a bad engine ground. He said they used to double up engine grounds on BMWs as they are weak.
Cleaned up the contact points and ran a new wire. Turned right over. So stoked the trans doesn't have to come out.
Now to figure out how to get the top bold on the starter back in...
Any one else run additional grounds? Where did you run them?
I have the one from driver chassis leg to alternator only at this point.
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Originally posted by Poorhouse View PostI did check that, gear size is the same on the 2 starters. I was really hoping that was the problem.
I'm thinking it has to be the spacer or maybe the trans didn't fully seat.
Is there a difference between auto and manual spacers?
What spacer? The housing shield? It’s the same. Flywheel spacers are different with AT being thinner but it doesn’t affect the starter...I believe
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I did check that, gear size is the same on the 2 starters. I was really hoping that was the problem.
I'm thinking it has to be the spacer or maybe the trans didn't fully seat.
Is there a difference between auto and manual spacers?
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Hard to tell from pics, but there are two different starters BMW used. One for twin cam engines, one for single cams. To check the difference, measure the gear on the starters. Since they have an odd number of teeth, you will be measuring across two teeth on one side and one on the other (if that makes sense in text). If the starters have the same size gear, then you are good to go.
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Pulled starter. Looks identical to the original.
Bench tested both and they are working.
The Bendix engagement on the original starter is more solid and it extends slightly further.
Installed the original and still not working.
Revd my pics. Flywheel is on correctly. I check the teeth engagement with the original auto part and it matched.
Not sure what the issue is.
I'm going to pull it again and see if the sheet metal spacer piece got out of alignment and isn't allowing the starter to sit high enough.
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Woodriff key does not have to come out, the seal rides on a thicker part of the crank snout. Don't forget the oil pump drive seal while you are in there (same part number as the cam seal).
I made that tool out of a scrap piece of 1/2" aluminum and a band saw, use and loan it to my friends all the time. Since you motor is in the car, you can wrap the tool with some towels and let it rest against a frame rail.
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I found this inexpensive crankshaft holding tool.
The handle is not long enough, but I can put a concrete block on the floor and it will hold it.
BMW CRANKSHAFT HUB LOCKING TOOL (M20/M40/M41/M43/M44/M50/M51/M52)
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I have questions.
Do you have to take out the woodruff key (number 9 on the picture) on the crankshaft to change the crankshaft seal?
How do you insert the timing belt gear wheel (number 11) back on the crankshaft?
The crankshaft bolt is short.
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Originally posted by r-mm View Post
Aftermarket starter? I do suggest testing its engagement with the RHD flywheel before you get too far to make sure you are comfortable with it. In hindsight I do think a very light amount of dry lube on starter gear would not be a bad thing.
Well I should have paid more attention to this.
Attempted to crank it for the first time last night.
Sounds like the Bendix gear is hitting the flywheel.
Makes a couple good hard whacking sounds when I turn the key.
Turned engine over to try it in other spots with no change.
Need to pull the reman starter and install the original.
Good thing is I don't have everything back in the car.
Bad thing is I don't think the trans had threaded holes so I need to figure out how to hold the nut.
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Good stuff! Nice access for the load leveler with no accessories or manifold. Im curious what your opinion of the in situ reassembly will be.
Aftermarket starter? I do suggest testing its engagement with the RHD flywheel before you get too far to make sure you are comfortable with it. In hindsight I do think a very light amount of dry lube on starter gear would not be a bad thing.
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Got some little stuff done last night.
Got the cam belt covers sorted out and pulleys on.
Resealed the oil cooler thermostat.
Found out I'm missing a stud for the thermostat housing. Anyone have a part number for that?
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