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Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

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  • zaq123
    replied
    Originally posted by r-mm View Post
    How did you all go about driving the rear main seal down 1 to 2 mm from the surface of the carrier in an even fashion?

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    you have to get something of the large diameter. I personally prefer to get this seal and seal carrier as a unit. Not much more $$ than a quality seal and limits a possibility of the installation mistake. You do not want to do this job again soon.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    How did you all go about driving the rear main seal down 1 to 2 mm from the surface of the carrier in an even fashion?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    I noticed the throwout bearing that came with my sachs clutch kit all of which is made in Germany is composite with some stamped components where as the original which is stamped BMW is all metal cast or forged. I also noticed that the FTE made in Germany slave cylinder I received his composite. Is this the way things are going?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Holes is wrong with the stock system

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  • zaq123
    replied
    Originally posted by r-mm View Post
    Exhaust down

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    that is the downgrade, design wise and in the material. Whats wrong with the stock system?

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    I have had luck sand blasting the manifolds and spraying them with rattle can header paint with ceramic from the parts store. Just make sure the first time they get hot, they are clean or the oily fingerprints will burn in them (I use the silver).

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  • r-mm
    replied
    I've been curious about the graphite spray technique for a while - I'll give it a shot here. If anyone has used a particular product or has feedback lemme know!

    While headers may offer more performance, nothing fits a specific car like the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, and when the car is restored or original, they are necessary. The problem with cast…


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  • r-mm
    replied
    Has anyone succeeded in applying a paint or any other treatment to the cast manifolds that actually lasts? I tried POR high temperature on my alfa and I can see it flaking very quickly. I don’t want to spend on a jet hot or other outsourced coating. I have a blast cabinet and can prep them but dont want to make the fairly large effort if its all gonna flake...

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Nice work!

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Gonna get my neighbor over and see if we cant yank this motor n trans tonite. Any special prep needed to lay it down or does it sit on the oilpan/tranny okay - just long enough for me to separate and mount the block to a stand

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Usually just missing, or a PO didn't reinstall it.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Im 8/88 build date - maybe it was added ?

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Hmm, mine didn't have that piece.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

    Its the rubber buffer on the bottom of the motor that appears to stop the motor from contacting the x member. It has a replaceable rubber pad.Click image for larger version

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