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Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

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    #91
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

    It takes a good amount of force to bend the valves when turning an engine by hand, actually, one would almost need a breaker bar or long handle ratchet.
    and yet so many posts about bent valves on reassemblies.....people think they are fighting valve spring pressure .....while they are bending valves.

    My advice is if one is not 100% sure what one is doing, do not spin the crank and cam independently. BMW should have done it fool proof with a possibility to lock cam and crank in place for TB job...like vw did on their diesels.
    Last edited by zaq123; 04-23-2019, 05:36 PM.

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      #92
      Ive done a bunch but they’re all different. Porsche flat six timing set with dial indicator. MFI Alfa timing of injection pump needs coordinated with block and head events. Porsche flat four timing is done when case halves joined. Always something new to learn.

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        #93
        Rotate the engine without plugs it's much easier when you aren't fighting compression and hard spots will be legitimate uh oh
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #94
          Yup usually leave plugs barely threaded to keep debris out, ease turnover


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            #95
            Motor is coming together and I am starting to think about reinstallation. What sequence of mounts and carriers install do you all find is easiest when reinstalling the motor? My feeling is that having the carriers on the motor and the rubber mounts on the body is the best any feedback?

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              #96
              The parts diagrams dont seem to show which fuel line is supply and which is return. The labels I put on the lines before removing dont tell and photos dont show all together.

              Anyone recall which line the bottom one is?

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                #97
                Originally posted by r-mm View Post
                The parts diagrams dont seem to show which fuel line is supply and which is return. The labels I put on the lines before removing dont tell and photos dont show all together.

                Anyone recall which line the bottom one is?

                [ATTACH]127333[/ATTACH]
                the big one on the very bottom? charcoal canister

                typically out of those 3 lines in the bracket, bottom one is the supply. But there is only one way to be 100% sure - go and look at the fuel filter near the gas tank. If it's coming from the filter - supply; if it goes into the tank - return

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                  #98
                  Good call and reminder I had meant to change all those hoses in the back.

                  Ground down a 30mm and got the trans output nut off. VW crank puller worked nicely to remove the sprocket.

                  Improved detent plate going on.

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                    #99
                    Does anyone see anything out of place?

                    Someone remind me if the crank position sensor is closer to the driver or pass side (usa).

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                      Crank position sensor is on the passenger side. It looks like it's in the correct spot.
                      Build Thread

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                        Back where she belongs. Click image for larger version

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                          Well done!

                          Any tricks on getting it back in?
                          1991 318iC
                          1989 325i Field Rescue

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                            Man, nice work!!
                            sigpic

                            2014 GTI | 2002 Land Cruiser | 1991 Volvo 745t

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                              Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

                              For reinstall - I definitely recommend making all your connections on the stand. Easy to forget how tight access is under the int mani. One thing i’d omit is the vib damper / ps+ac belt sprocket. Ac condenser will thank you for those extra inches.

                              I didn’t like the way the rear hoist point pointed the chain at the fuel rail so I figured Id do a test lift with just the front point. At that moment three of my neighbors showed up and we figured we would just go at it. The single hoist point was not a problem (someone can pull the back of trans up to clear the front if needed) but having a good jack underneath the car on the transmission and a person to move it around was absolutely crucial. There was lots of going up on the transmission down on the crane, reverse etc. definitely some bear-hugging and pry baring at the end to get the mounts seated but without a doubt having the carriers on the motor, mounts on the body is the way to do it. Don’t forget that the mount studs can be pointed where you want them more easily than the drivetrain can be.

                              Can someone remind me which oil cooler line goes to which port on the filter block?Click image for larger version

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                                Will keep running list of stuff i forgot to do or did out of sequence for anyone’s benefit -

                                Make all shifter connections before driveshaft goes on

                                Dont forget to Moly disulfide grease the shifter contact points before installing

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