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No spark, tach not moving while cranking
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ive got a similar issue, cranks well but no spark but occasionally runs for a couple second and cuts out.
im also expecting crank sensor, cam sensor or relay. im using an after market ECU so logged a cranking no start sequence which showed a SYNC error.
anyone got main relay PN handy?
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Finally got it started. Used some wires to jump the main relay and it fired right up. I guess I got a bad part when I bought the relay...either way a new one is on order from Turner.
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You're better off putting a finger on the relay.
You'll feel the click more than you'll hear it,.
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Thanks for your reply. I'm certain I got the wires hooked up correctly. I even tested the ECU plug to make sure I'm getting a signal from the CPS to the ECU. I have tried swapping out ECUs also, which didn't have any effect. I have 12 volts at the coil, so I think the ignition switch is good. I replaced the main relay, but I need to do more testing to make sure it's getting power I guess. I had my wife listen for it to click when turning the ignition on and there was no click.
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Originally posted by ryan.of.peachey View PostEither way I got a new CPS from BMW and it checks out at 530 ohms. Still trying to track down the no spark. Thinking it may be a bad connection to main relay.
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Have you tried to swap the DME and ECU relais? If you suspect a loose/bad connection, try to "jiggle" the wires a bit and see if it makes a difference.
Since you replaced the CPS and Spark Plug wires (which comes with another sensor) are you certain that you did not mix up the connections near the OBD port?
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Either way I got a new CPS from BMW and it checks out at 530 ohms. Still trying to track down the no spark. Thinking it may be a bad connection to main relay.
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Originally posted by MrBurgundy View PostYeah an OEM one will read that, but some aftermarket ones I think will read a little higher than that.
But what I'm saying is verify that you're getting power, ground and signal coming out of the CPS.
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I pinned out the DME and I'm getting a signal from the CPS at pins 46 and 47. The only thing that seemed wrong was I couldn't get the main relay to click when I jumped pin 36 to ground. Also the coil main post to 15 is reading close to 7k ohms, so I think the coil may be bad...even though its new..
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Originally posted by ryan.of.peachey View PostThe CPS is registering over 800 ohms, and I think it should be around 540, right?
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But what I'm saying is verify that you're getting power, ground and signal coming out of the CPS.
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The CPS is registering over 800 ohms, and I think it should be around 540, right?
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At the CPS make sure you're getting 12v and a ground. If you are, crank the car and verify that the CPS is sending a 5v pulse out.
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No spark, tach not moving while cranking
I've got an '88 325i vert with a no start, no spark issue. I've replaced the following parts: spak plugs and wires, cap and rotor, coil, CPS. I've got 12 volts at the coil with ignition on, and the engine cranks over well, but no spark. Also the tach stays at 0 while cranking. Would this indicate a bad CPS, even though it's a new part? Thanks.
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