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325i cranks but will not start after some servicing.

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  • R1ckM
    replied
    Originally posted by ScottSneed View Post
    I'm having this issue with an 89 325i I'm working on. Same back story, head gasket, etc.. Did it end up just being flooded cylinders?
    Hey, I haven't logged on in a couple weeks. Replied to your PM. Check the injector harness plug, the main one (big circular plug, runs under the intake manifold going down).

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  • ScottSneed
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin View Post
    Engine is either flooded wit fuel or you have a giant vacuum leak. Either way, I would try to let it run for a few minutes, at least.
    I'm having this issue with an 89 325i I'm working on. Same back story, head gasket, etc.. Did it end up just being flooded cylinders?

    Leave a comment:


  • R1ckM
    replied
    Originally posted by 325e '87 View Post
    I always bleed mine while its on ramps up front. Is your coolant reservoir above the exhaust manifold? I think its easier to bleed the older style coolant system, my ‘89 has the tank by the AFM and I pretty much have to raise the front of the car to bleed it. Don’t forget to turn the heat on while you are doing it.
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy View Post
    also, just leave the bleeder open over night, let all that air come out.

    Lifting the front up on these cars might not work too well, since the bleeder is on the Tstat housing, so lifting the front would make the radiator the high point
    Alright, I think it's getting there. I've got the late model engine (late 89-92).
    I bled it last night until it warmed up. Turned it off, going to bleed it again some more. I have a steep alleyway next door and parked it there with the front end at the top. Might try it the other way around.

    *EDIT* Did the blow into the reservoir quick bleed.... It worked and was super easy. How about that.
    Last edited by R1ckM; 08-01-2019, 05:14 PM.

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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    also, just leave the bleeder open over night, let all that air come out.

    Lifting the front up on these cars might not work too well, since the bleeder is on the Tstat housing, so lifting the front would make the radiator the high point

    Leave a comment:


  • 325e '87
    replied
    I always bleed mine while its on ramps up front. Is your coolant reservoir above the exhaust manifold? I think its easier to bleed the older style coolant system, my ‘89 has the tank by the AFM and I pretty much have to raise the front of the car to bleed it. Don’t forget to turn the heat on while you are doing it.

    Leave a comment:


  • R1ckM
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin View Post
    Engine is either flooded wit fuel or you have a giant vacuum leak. Either way, I would try to let it run for a few minutes, at least.
    After starting and driving around a bit, I let it sit for a while. Came back out to start it and it will idle on its own now. There is still a little miss in the idle but its much better. (noticed the lifters got a little louder though)

    I ordered a new intake boot and valve cover vent hose. Those both had some surface cracking and the boot had a decent size actual crack.

    Now i'm trying to get the cooling system bleed... Got the steam treatment from the bleeder valve tonight. I will try again tomorrow, if I still can't get it i'll get a tool to pressurize it.

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  • e30austin
    replied
    Engine is either flooded wit fuel or you have a giant vacuum leak. Either way, I would try to let it run for a few minutes, at least.

    Leave a comment:


  • R1ckM
    replied
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy View Post
    if it starts with starting fluid, I'd start looking at the c101, then proceed to look over the rest of the fuel delivery system.
    Originally posted by e30austin View Post
    yeah, check the wiring at the c191 connector under the intake. pull the boot off and have a look at the wiring going to the pins.
    Originally posted by 325e '87 View Post
    I would double check that the fuel lines aren’t reversed. Then pop out an injector and make sure it’s spraying. Also, the ground straps.
    Ok, pumped out all the old brown gas. (no chunks of anything or water)

    Fresh gas in, still no start. Until.... I go ahead and re-seat the circle connector from the middle of the fuel rail.

    Boom, starts right up BUT won't stay running unless I give it throttle. It then sputters and dies when I let off the gas. (engine running doesn't sound off or anything though which is nice.)

    The intake boot after the maf/mas is cracked but its not wide and still partially sealed. However could this the cause of the issue?

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  • 325e '87
    replied
    I would double check that the fuel lines aren’t reversed. Then pop out an injector and make sure it’s spraying. Also, the ground straps.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30austin
    replied
    yeah, check the wiring at the c191 connector under the intake. pull the boot off and have a look at the wiring going to the pins.

    Leave a comment:


  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    if it starts with starting fluid, I'd start looking at the c101, then proceed to look over the rest of the fuel delivery system.

    Leave a comment:


  • R1ckM
    replied
    Originally posted by e30austin View Post
    Make sure the front balancer pulley is orientated correctly, as wel as the distributor rotor gear (the one that bolts to the camshaft). Sounds like ignition timing is off to me.
    Originally posted by efficient View Post
    maybe you got the fuel lines switched around?
    crank sensor touching the pulley? or needs alignment?
    dme fuse good?relays good?
    Alright, I actually took the intake boot off the manifold and tried to start with a few sprays of starter fluid. The engine turned over and started for a second.

    So since it will actually start up this method where should I go from here? Are the injectors not spraying or something?

    Leave a comment:


  • e30austin
    replied
    Make sure the front balancer pulley is orientated correctly, as wel as the distributor rotor gear (the one that bolts to the camshaft). Sounds like ignition timing is off to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • efficient
    replied
    maybe you got the fuel lines switched around?
    crank sensor touching the pulley? or needs alignment?
    dme fuse good?relays good?

    Leave a comment:


  • R1ckM
    started a topic 325i cranks but will not start after some servicing.

    325i cranks but will not start after some servicing.

    Picked up a 88 bmw 325i last summer, seller said it was leaking oil in coolant.

    Took the head off and got the machine shop to check it and do any reconditioning it needed. Has the M20 engine.

    Finally got around to putting the head back on, along with new water pump, timing belt kit, etc...

    I've got everything back together and it will crank over, the fuel line is pumping gas & the spark plugs have spark.

    It just won't start or even start and die. Just cranks over fine though.

    The only thing I might double check is the wiring harness that is below the intake manifold and goes into a circular bracket into another circle connector. I think I go it in good but idk what else could be wrong. It had under a quarter of a tank of year old gas in it, I put another gallon of fresh gas in it. The old gas seemed very gassy as when I removed the fuel line I was blasted in the face with pressurized fuel.

    I checked the timing 6x's, even did the belt 2x's just to make sure the cam and crank were lined up very very well with a nice snug belt. Cranked over by hand with no issues.

    Any help please, I am a little bummed its not starting after so much work.
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