Originally posted by ScottSneed
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325i cranks but will not start after some servicing.
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Originally posted by e30austin View PostEngine is either flooded wit fuel or you have a giant vacuum leak. Either way, I would try to let it run for a few minutes, at least.
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Originally posted by 325e '87 View PostI always bleed mine while its on ramps up front. Is your coolant reservoir above the exhaust manifold? I think its easier to bleed the older style coolant system, my ‘89 has the tank by the AFM and I pretty much have to raise the front of the car to bleed it. Don’t forget to turn the heat on while you are doing it.Originally posted by MrBurgundy View Postalso, just leave the bleeder open over night, let all that air come out.
Lifting the front up on these cars might not work too well, since the bleeder is on the Tstat housing, so lifting the front would make the radiator the high point
I bled it last night until it warmed up. Turned it off, going to bleed it again some more. I have a steep alleyway next door and parked it there with the front end at the top. Might try it the other way around.
*EDIT* Did the blow into the reservoir quick bleed.... It worked and was super easy. How about that.Last edited by R1ckM; 08-01-2019, 05:14 PM.
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also, just leave the bleeder open over night, let all that air come out.
Lifting the front up on these cars might not work too well, since the bleeder is on the Tstat housing, so lifting the front would make the radiator the high point
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I always bleed mine while its on ramps up front. Is your coolant reservoir above the exhaust manifold? I think its easier to bleed the older style coolant system, my ‘89 has the tank by the AFM and I pretty much have to raise the front of the car to bleed it. Don’t forget to turn the heat on while you are doing it.
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Originally posted by e30austin View PostEngine is either flooded wit fuel or you have a giant vacuum leak. Either way, I would try to let it run for a few minutes, at least.
I ordered a new intake boot and valve cover vent hose. Those both had some surface cracking and the boot had a decent size actual crack.
Now i'm trying to get the cooling system bleed... Got the steam treatment from the bleeder valve tonight. I will try again tomorrow, if I still can't get it i'll get a tool to pressurize it.
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Engine is either flooded wit fuel or you have a giant vacuum leak. Either way, I would try to let it run for a few minutes, at least.
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Originally posted by MrBurgundy View Postif it starts with starting fluid, I'd start looking at the c101, then proceed to look over the rest of the fuel delivery system.Originally posted by e30austin View Postyeah, check the wiring at the c191 connector under the intake. pull the boot off and have a look at the wiring going to the pins.Originally posted by 325e '87 View PostI would double check that the fuel lines aren’t reversed. Then pop out an injector and make sure it’s spraying. Also, the ground straps.
Fresh gas in, still no start. Until.... I go ahead and re-seat the circle connector from the middle of the fuel rail.
Boom, starts right up BUT won't stay running unless I give it throttle. It then sputters and dies when I let off the gas. (engine running doesn't sound off or anything though which is nice.)
The intake boot after the maf/mas is cracked but its not wide and still partially sealed. However could this the cause of the issue?
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I would double check that the fuel lines aren’t reversed. Then pop out an injector and make sure it’s spraying. Also, the ground straps.
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yeah, check the wiring at the c191 connector under the intake. pull the boot off and have a look at the wiring going to the pins.
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if it starts with starting fluid, I'd start looking at the c101, then proceed to look over the rest of the fuel delivery system.
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Originally posted by e30austin View PostMake sure the front balancer pulley is orientated correctly, as wel as the distributor rotor gear (the one that bolts to the camshaft). Sounds like ignition timing is off to me.Originally posted by efficient View Postmaybe you got the fuel lines switched around?
crank sensor touching the pulley? or needs alignment?
dme fuse good?relays good?
So since it will actually start up this method where should I go from here? Are the injectors not spraying or something?
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Make sure the front balancer pulley is orientated correctly, as wel as the distributor rotor gear (the one that bolts to the camshaft). Sounds like ignition timing is off to me.
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maybe you got the fuel lines switched around?
crank sensor touching the pulley? or needs alignment?
dme fuse good?relays good?
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325i cranks but will not start after some servicing.
Picked up a 88 bmw 325i last summer, seller said it was leaking oil in coolant.
Took the head off and got the machine shop to check it and do any reconditioning it needed. Has the M20 engine.
Finally got around to putting the head back on, along with new water pump, timing belt kit, etc...
I've got everything back together and it will crank over, the fuel line is pumping gas & the spark plugs have spark.
It just won't start or even start and die. Just cranks over fine though.
The only thing I might double check is the wiring harness that is below the intake manifold and goes into a circular bracket into another circle connector. I think I go it in good but idk what else could be wrong. It had under a quarter of a tank of year old gas in it, I put another gallon of fresh gas in it. The old gas seemed very gassy as when I removed the fuel line I was blasted in the face with pressurized fuel.
I checked the timing 6x's, even did the belt 2x's just to make sure the cam and crank were lined up very very well with a nice snug belt. Cranked over by hand with no issues.
Any help please, I am a little bummed its not starting after so much work.Tags: None
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