Also,
Last time i've changed the thermostat, i've also changed Water Temperature Sensor. A month a ago, my engine overheated! So i did a headgasket job + resurface the head. I forgot to change the water pump. SO i will do this in 2 weeks since, i have coolant leak near it. At the same time, i will change the water housing and gasket on the TB.
I want to know, Does an overheating can effect the Water Temperature Sensor ? Do i have to changed it if i've already put a brand new 3 month before the overheating ?
thx
1223 error code
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the damn thing is back again !!
Last time i didnt change the gasket, but this time i will!!!!
Does this is the good gasket ?
I cant disconnect the connector. I squeeze the boot on top and twist the part under, it make a 1/4 turn but nothing much.
Its a rainy day and i work outside, i will try tomorrowLeave a comment:
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I had the exact same problem described in this thread, except for the error code. Anyway, the issue got solved before the throttle body gasket I ordered arrived. What fixed the problem was simply to pour octane booster on the gas tank, that's it. I live in Costa Rica, Central America, and the "premium" gasoline around here is not of the best quality (to put it politely, actually is kinda crappy) so perhaps the octane booster cleaned something in the fuel/injection system? What do you guys think?
Thanks...Leave a comment:
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Pin #1 Brown/Red – Coolant Temp Sensor +
Pin #2 Brown/OR? – Coolant Temp Sensor -
Pin #3 not sure what its for.
Pin #4 Brown/Violet – Engine Temperature for ECU +
Pin #5 Red/White – Injector Banks +
Pin #6 Brown/White – Injector Bank 135 -
Pin #7 Brown/Yellow – Injector Bank 246 -
Brown sensor is for gauge
Blue sensor is for the ECULeave a comment:
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Yeah.. and that picture shows green corrosion all over the connector holder, the engine block etc.. you should open it and examine just the same. A vacuum leak will NOT throw a 1223 code.Leave a comment:
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Today 5 min after i've post, ive just shaked it. After reconnect the intake boot, i've noticed that the rubber around the ICV was not attach. I've clip this rubber at the good place. Et voila the car runs great !
thx to allLeave a comment:
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Yes, that is the right connector. Hold the top section and TWIST the bottom section (the ridged part) and it will come apart.Leave a comment:
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i've looked under the manifold, took off the intake boot and found this thing that looks like the connector. I've tried to pull each side of the connector but nothing wont come off. How do i unplug it ?
Here's a pic, his this the good thing ?

ThxLeave a comment:
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What he said.
Here is what probably caused your problem. There is a cork gasket that should be in there. When this wears out it leaks coolant directly into that connector. It is BMW part #13541285471.
Sorry about the lame crop. I don't really have any photo editing software on my computer right now.Leave a comment:
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Its a 7 pin connector UNDER the intake manifold. You have to remove the intake boot and airbox to really get at it.
It is a circular connectorLeave a comment:
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This probleme start 2 week after i went to a local car wash to do an engine cleaning.Leave a comment:
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I didnt had time too look at this this week. I did drive it the whole week, at each stop and red light, i did put it on the neutral and keep the engine rev. If i didnt this the engine die. I was looking like a dump ass who want to race everyone !
I've look for this connector, i dont know wich one you are talking about. So i took pics of the 3 potential connector that you are talking. Wich one is it ?
One near the oil dip:

Or one of those 2 right under the TB ?

Also where in this picture is situated the gasket that you r talking ?

This is the CT sender and sensor with his wire. DO you see something wrong?

Thx alot for futur advice.Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: