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1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

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    I currently have an 89 328I auto daily driver. Picked up a spare 89 325I engine with a lot less miles. I also have a wrecked 83 528E 5 speed. Am I reading this correctly, I can use the E28 block, pistons with (E28) 5 speed trans and use the I head, intake, rods and electronics? I will need to use the E30 transmission cross member.
    sigpic
    Steve Corbett
    1983 528E Scrapped
    1983 528E Sold
    1984 745I
    1984 325E - Sold
    1989 325I Bronzit-Sold
    1989 325I Zinno
    1988 635CSI

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      Great write up

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        Originally posted by kenika65 View Post
        I ran single valve spring in my 2.7i until I was ready to install the i cam, i valve springs, head gasket, and drill 3 extra oil passages in the eta head for the i cam.
        So besides the oil passages missing, there's no difference in the actual head between the the i an eta? I was under the impression I needed the whole i head.

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          Originally posted by Liquidity View Post
          So besides the oil passages missing, there's no difference in the actual head between the the i an eta? I was under the impression I needed the whole i head.
          There is most definitely a difference. I think they were referring to the super eta (seta) engine from an '88 model 325e(S). That engine comes with the 885 head-- the one found on the 325i m20b25, but doesn't contain many of the high performance head parts.

          If you want to do a proper 2.7i, you have to make sure you have an 885 head with supporting components, and a stroked or m20b27 bottom end.

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            Originally posted by Liquidity View Post
            So besides the oil passages missing, there's no difference in the actual head between the the i an eta? I was under the impression I needed the whole i head.
            The seta head and the I head are both the same 885 casting but different cams. An eta engine has a different head entirely, with smaller valves, and much smaller ports.

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              Damn I just got my hopes up way too much for that.

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                Originally posted by Liquidity View Post
                So besides the oil passages missing, there's no difference in the actual head between the the i an eta? I was under the impression I needed the whole i head.
                Check it: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=283179


                --->>>1988 SETA 2.7i Build Thread (Turbo Prep)<<<---

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                  Alright so i'm starting to collect parts for the 2.7i swap. I thought I read somewhere I need some type of oil sensor? Anybody have any info on that? Also do I need the i timing cover or can i get away with running the eta timing cover.

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                    Originally posted by scarecrow View Post
                    Alright so i'm starting to collect parts for the 2.7i swap. I thought I read somewhere I need some type of oil sensor? Anybody have any info on that? Also do I need the i timing cover or can i get away with running the eta timing cover.
                    I believe the issue with the sensor is that the oil level pressure on the e car and I car were different, with different plugs. AFAIK, you can either just cut and splice the I harness connect to the existing e sensor, or replace the sensor.

                    The difference in timing cover relates to the early vs later style cooling system. If you keep the early dual outlet water pump, then you can keep the early timing belt covers. The late covers have a mounting point for the metal coolant crossover tube.

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                      Andy is correct.
                      the Oil level, and oil Pressure sensors have different connections from motronic 1.0 and 1.3 harnesses, id recommend just buying a new oil pressure sensor and use that, the oil level might be fine to splice.

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                        I have a 86 eta that's gonna be na for a while, I was always thinking I needed the 885 head to make a 2.7i. Is wiring a bunch of I stuff and swapping the manifold cam valve springs and belts all that's needed? If I port the 200 head to match the intake and throw on larger valves with a 272 cam is it more worthwhile than getting the whole head for now?
                        Last edited by whitebulat22; 07-27-2014, 05:45 PM.

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                          whats your main goal? keeping compression? or budget? for the 200 head if you ported them it would keep your compression the same (flat piston, flat head) but then swap over all the I components into the new head. whatever floats your boat man. itll work it might just cost a bit more. i really like my 885 on eta block its a blast, and a ported 200 and I components and a cam will be a ton of fun, just not in my budget.

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                            It will be easier to slap a 885 casting on there and be done with it than getting the 200 casting up to speed but it can be done.
                            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                              You'll probably end up spending more money on getting head work done than just finding a complete swap.

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                                Well I'm definitely not trying to spend more on making a 200 head setup then using the 885 so thanks for warning me. It's my first project ever so the goal is just to build a hot E30 and the 885 seems to leave both NA and boost doors open in the future.

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