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  • kronus
    replied
    updates are slow, but kaos and I actually got some stuff done yesterday. I was finally able to get some time to take the car over to his laboratory:



    We then cut out and unbend all the stuff around the motor, and began to unhook accessories. Unfortunately, we did not have a sawzall and were short on time, so the car now sits with the engine only connected by the driveshaft, shift linkage, and exhaust system. Hopefully tomorrow it will come out the rest of the way.

    Questions:

    - the exhaust manifolds on the M30 are both rear exit... which means that the e28 ones do not bolt up to the e30 exhaust. Which ones do? I know e32 ones line up properly, but they have completely different flages, and I was led to believe that there is a set that will bolt up.

    - there is a cutoff valve for the heater core on the e28's firewall. The e30 doesn't have anything like it, I don't think. Is it necessary for proper M30 operation?

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  • yert315
    replied
    you will need an e34/e32 oil pan and pump. They are the same. Hence, you will need the gasket for the e32/34 oil pan.

    Funny you should ask, as I have an oil pan and pump from an e32 :D

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    whooooa, full stop.


    e28 oil pan gasket:


    e34 oil pan gasket:


    People claim to need to use an e34 oil pan and pump. Is this true, and do I use the E28 gasket or E34 gasket?

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    Sorry, I meant the oil filter housing gasket.

    Both, front/rear cam seals and front/rear timing cover and the rear gasket on the back of the head, it tends to leak.

    Ah. Oil filter housing gasket added.

    I'm not going to pull the front timing cover.. seals for rear cover plate and rear oil fitting added.

    I can't find cam seals on realOEM :(

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus
    I'm not sure what to do about that... I have a UUC SSK and don't even know if it takes the same bushings as OEM shifters.

    All hoses checked out fine today. Fuel filter housing gasket?

    By timing seals do you mean cam seals?
    Sorry, I meant the oil filter housing gasket.

    Both, front/rear cam seals and front/rear timing cover and the rear gasket on the back of the head, it tends to leak.

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    I would also inspect all the hoses and such on the engine as well. ICV to manifold hose, manifold to the fuel evap valve. Also fuel filter housing gasket, front/rear timing gaskets, or seals also. Also the other shifter component, the white ring that sits in the shifter carrier, they are usually worn out.
    I'm not sure what to do about that... I have a UUC SSK and don't even know if it takes the same bushings as OEM shifters.

    All hoses checked out fine today. Fuel filter housing gasket?

    By timing seals do you mean cam seals?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    I would also inspect all the hoses and such on the engine as well. ICV to manifold hose, manifold to the fuel evap valve. Also oil filter housing gasket, front/rear timing gaskets, or seals also. Also the other shifter component, the white ring that sits in the shifter carrier, they are usually worn out.

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied


    How's this look?

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  • Jean
    replied
    Looks like a b34 with a 260/6 :)

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    Went to the car, got photos

    Notes for the photos:

    1279: large, empty toolkit
    1281: driver's seatback frame is bent... backseat is pristine
    1283: ugliest headunit on the planet. It claims to be 52Wx4, though.
    1292: more seat carnage
    1296: shit's all crunched up into the radiator
    1297: HYDROBOOST!
    1303: getrag 260/6?

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    Originally posted by yert315
    in that case, use the front half of the e28 shaft and rear half of the e30 drive shaft. It will mate up perfectly.
    I did this. It did not work.

    I had to have the e28 front half shortened a bit. There is a driveshaft place near me that did it for $90 and it is perfect.


    As for the downpipes- if you use e32/4 manifolds, the 325i downpipes will line up correctly, they just wont bolt together. It is a fairly easy weld job to mate the 2 together, any good exhaust shop should do it for under $200.

    Leave a comment:


  • yert315
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus
    Good to know. What about E34 headers?
    e32/e34 headers are the same. Basically the b35 headers have the two bolt and b34 has 3. Look at the picture lowr3vin' posted, the one on the right is a b34 header.

    If it helps, I went with the b34 headers for two reasons. 1.) the e24 635 had a down pipe that reduced into a single 2 1/4 outlet, which was perfect because I was planning on having a single pipe exhaust. 2.) I plan on going turbo later and the flanges for the b34 are ideal for creating a manifold adapter.

    Leave a comment:


  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    You can use your stock driveshaft if it has
    the large flange. Use the b35 manifolds. They flow more. :)

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    Originally posted by yert315
    in that case, use the front half of the e28 shaft and rear half of the e30 drive shaft. It will mate up perfectly.

    and regarding the headers/down pipe issue. The e30 down pipe flanges are 3 bolt and the e32 ones are 2 bolt. You may be able to get away with using the e28 headers to e30 down pipes. I don't know if they will mate up, but they are both a 3 bolt flat surface flange.
    Good to know. What about E34 headers?

    Leave a comment:


  • yert315
    replied
    in that case, use the front half of the e28 shaft and rear half of the e30 drive shaft. It will mate up perfectly.

    and regarding the headers/down pipe issue. The e30 down pipe flanges are 3 bolt and the e32 ones are 2 bolt. You may be able to get away with using the e28 headers to e30 down pipes. I don't know if they will mate up, but they are both a 3 bolt flat surface flange.

    Leave a comment:

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