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Cooling your m30

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  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    You're right - the on or off setup is tough on the fans. I'm still running a curved blade e32 fan for my setup, but it's the second one. The first one I got around 3 years of daily driving out of before it died, then the second one has lasted 4 years so far but is starting to get a bit noisy now. Neither fan was new though, they're just wrecker fans with unknown history.

    I have an e39 fan in the shed I'm going to run when the current one wears out.

    That controller looks good - I like the way they go right up to 200 amps!

    Leave a comment:


  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post
    Seeing as you're having issues Corvallis - I'd try shifting the 80/88 to the thermostat housing. It may work fine, but if the fan then doesn't switch off ever with the engine up to temp, you could swap out the thermostat for a 71 degree one.

    The 71 degree thermostat was a factory option for hot climates so there shouldn't be problems with rich running etc. at the cooler temperature. I've run the 82 degree switch with the 71 degree thermostat for years and it has worked well.

    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...34-e36-e39-z3/
    Interesting, 71C seems really cool but I guess these engines were designed back in a time when efficiency wasn't paramount so cooler temps were more common.

    I'm strongly considering moving away from the factory switches/relays and going to a full PWM setup. Brushed DC motors don't really like being kicked on to 100%, it tends to wear them out. That's not a problem if you're using your fans only for auxiliary cooling when needed because you have a mechanical fan that does 95% of the work. But in my case the electric fans are the only fans so they're starting/stopping dozens of times each trip I take. There's also a huge inrush current when the 88C circuit closes and my 16" ramps from low to high and the 10" kicks on to high as well. I can hear, feel, and watch the RPMs drop as the load on the alternator spikes. A PWM controller setup would mean longer fan life, less alternator wear, and lower noise. I've been doing a lot of research over the past few days and I'm really liking this guy's products: https://www.autocoolguy.com/product-page/auto-cool-55

    Leave a comment:


  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    Seeing as you're having issues Corvallis - I'd try shifting the 80/88 to the thermostat housing. It may work fine, but if the fan then doesn't switch off ever with the engine up to temp, you could swap out the thermostat for a 71 degree one.

    The 71 degree thermostat was a factory option for hot climates so there shouldn't be problems with rich running etc. at the cooler temperature. I've run the 82 degree switch with the 71 degree thermostat for years and it has worked well.

    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...34-e36-e39-z3/

    Leave a comment:


  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post

    I just run my fan as a single speed, with the 82 degree switch from an e28. I run the switch in the thermostat housing so that it gets a correct read on the engine temperature - the switch mounted in the side of the radiator can be a bit hit and miss.
    I'm still using the switch mounted in the radiator and I agree, it's temperamental as fuck. It never comes on like it should. Maybe I'll switch the 80/88C for a 90/98C and place it in the thermostat housing.

    Leave a comment:


  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    No problem - happy to help. Good luck with getting your cooling system running reliably!

    Leave a comment:


  • TimeMachinE30
    replied
    Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post
    On mine I just used the stock wiring for the e30 Aux fan. It's on a 30 amp fuse, so works fine. The trick is to use a lower temp fan switch - the two popular options seem to be an e36 80/88 degree switch, or an 82 degree switch from an e28.

    I just run my fan as a single speed, with the 82 degree switch from an e28. I run the switch in the thermostat housing so that it gets a correct read on the engine temperature - the switch mounted in the side of the radiator can be a bit hit and miss.

    I've run this setup for over 100,000km and have had zero overheating issues, even driving in traffic in over 100F, which we get fairly regularly down here in summer... it's going to be 106F today!

    Got it. Thanks. I appreciate your build knowing you DD the swap in your down under heat.

    Leave a comment:


  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    On mine I just used the stock wiring for the e30 Aux fan. It's on a 30 amp fuse, so works fine. The trick is to use a lower temp fan switch - the two popular options seem to be an e36 80/88 degree switch, or an 82 degree switch from an e28.

    I just run my fan as a single speed, with the 82 degree switch from an e28. I run the switch in the thermostat housing so that it gets a correct read on the engine temperature - the switch mounted in the side of the radiator can be a bit hit and miss.

    I've run this setup for over 100,000km and have had zero overheating issues, even driving in traffic in over 100F, which we get fairly regularly down here in summer... it's going to be 106F today!

    Leave a comment:


  • TimeMachinE30
    replied
    So the NAPA zip ties to mount the fan are kosher?

    And I am not seeing the way to wire this up?

    Many of the aforementioned links are bad.

    Whats the best way to wire up a fan on the M30 swap now after all these years?

    Got this:

    Spal 30101517 Pusher Fan

    No AC.

    Little research: (tons of cooling/electric fan threads)

    https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6e4h2l

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...1&postcount=57
    Last edited by TimeMachinE30; 01-02-2019, 12:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by lukeADE335i View Post
    I'm running a M30B35 and the bolt couldn't push through from the back as it hit on the housing - wonder if there's some sort of difference in the housing on the Euro models vs. US. Did the M30 run an oil cooler in the US? *Edit... looking at the other thread on M30 oil coolers, it would seem they didn't.

    No they did not have oil coolers only euro m30 did.

    My only issue with having to raise rad is it turns a 1 man job into a 2 man job which makes anything take longer for me cause i cant get help to save my life. Always get excuses. I got lucky and the guys in the shop next door to mine where hanging around when i did mine so i got help from them.

    Leave a comment:


  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    I'm running a M30B35 and the bolt couldn't push through from the back as it hit on the housing - wonder if there's some sort of difference in the housing on the Euro models vs. US. Did the M30 run an oil cooler in the US? *Edit... looking at the other thread on M30 oil coolers, it would seem they didn't.

    Leave a comment:


  • glnr13
    replied
    yeah, I encountered that. I slid the radiator up 4-5" without disconnecting the hoses so that I could get the clearance to remove the bolt. I was wondering more about the couple of guys that could not get the bolt on from the back due to their oil filter housing.

    Leave a comment:


  • nighthawk
    replied
    Originally posted by glnr13 View Post
    Are you running a b35? What are you guys running that could NOT flip the bolt around? My b35 had no problem flipping the bolt around.
    M30b35.

    Its possible to flip the bolt around, but not with the radiator on.
    When you try to pull it out the front, it just hits the radiator and doesn't come out all the way.

    Leave a comment:


  • glnr13
    replied
    That runs the filter downwards below the intake right? Which explains why you guys couldn't flip the bolt around. B35 filter housing goes upwards.

    Leave a comment:


  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by glnr13 View Post
    Are you running a b35? What are you guys running that could NOT flip the bolt around? My b35 had no problem flipping the bolt around.


    Im running a b34 with a b35 intake

    Leave a comment:


  • glnr13
    replied
    Are you running a b35? What are you guys running that could NOT flip the bolt around? My b35 had no problem flipping the bolt around.

    Leave a comment:

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