My 333i Swap: The beginning

[chadthestampede]

I pulled off the harness completely, as it was getting to be kind of a hack job with wires everywhere anyway, and it was slightly different then the harness that came with the engine, which I am going to use instead. I'm going to print out the etm's tomorrow and start over, and try to match every wire myself rather than relying on info I find online. Wish me luck.

[chadthestampede]

After going through the diagrams again...I got almost the same thing as before:

e30-------e23
c101------c101
Pin 1: Alternator-------Pin 1:Alternator
Pin 2: Oil Static------Pin 2:Oil Static
Pin 3: Nothing
Pin 4: Coolant temp sender------Pin 4: Temp sender
Pin 5: Oil Pressure switch------Pin 16: Oil Pressure
Pin 6: O2 Sensor Heater Relay------Pin 6: O2 SHR
Pin 7: Ignition------Pin 10: Ignition + Pin 2 on C103: OBC Start Thingy
Pin 8: Fuel Eco------Pin 3 on C103: Fuel Eco
Pin 9: Tach------Pin 1 on C103: Tach
Pin 10: Oil Dynamic------Pin 15: Oil Dynamic
Pin 11: SI Reset------Pin 17: SI Reset
Pin 12: CEL------Nothing
Pin 13: Fuel Pressure Regulator------Pin 7: FPR
Pin 14: Speedo input------Nothing? (cant find a place for this)
Pin 15: Other Starter wire------Nothing
Pin 16: Diagnostic------Nothing
Pin 17:Nothing
Pin 18: Starter Wire------Pin 8: Starter
Pin 19: Nothing
Pin 20: Main Relay to ABS------Nothing

not sure why I'm posting all this wiring stuff up here but a lot of it is for me to look at in case my writtern copies get lost.

So tomorrow I'll try to wire it up again and see what happens. I'm about 99% sure this is right considering I didn't look up anything online, I got it all from the wiring diagrams that I spent and hour or two perusing on my own.

[chadthestampede]

alright i still can't seem to get a spark. I have power to both sides of the coil, the fuel pump and idle control are actually running now (they weren't before) We even tried a different coil (which oddly enough didn't get power to the negative) and a different wire and still nothing. I tried bypassing the main relay and running a wire from the center of the main to the positive on the coil, and still nothing. I don't know what to do here.

EDIT: I spoke too soon. On a whim my dad swapped the two pickup sensors and now it starts!

[euroshark]

Sweeeeet! Good job dude!!

:pimp:

[chadthestampede]

Sweeeeet! Good job dude!!

:pimp:

haha thanks, its certainly a relief. I should have just used the original harness to begin with, but then again hindsight is 20/20.


well it certainly didn't take long to run into the next problem. I managed to get my hands on a big guibo 325e driveshaft. but when putting it on today it seems like it's just a tiny bit too long. I can fit it, but it kind of squishes the guibo and I'm concerned that it may be a problem. I have funk's mounts and a 260/6 so I'm pretty damn sure that it should fit fine.

[Funkmasta]

do you have any room in the slip joint?

[chadthestampede]

i don't think so, i pushed it in as much as I could, it seems like theres like half an inch left but it won't go all the way...

[Funkmasta]

tap it with a mallet?

[euroshark]

You could remove material from the splined section (the smaller section that slips in) of the joint, or maybe even take a few 1/16ths off of the ends of the shaft where they meet the tranny and diff. Might be risky though...

[Funkmasta]

There is definitely a dust shield that you could halve, but you shouldn't have to... it should compress.

[chadthestampede]

i think I got it to compress enough, but the csb holes don't line up, so my dad is going to make little adapters. Other than that, got the power steering hooked up, and I think I'm going to have to bleed the clutch because the pedal doesn't do anything. :(

[Funkmasta]

The early cars and late cars have different CSB's... you can either make it work, or you can put a late model CSB on the early driveshaft. bleeding the clutch is more of an art than a science...

[Doughnut]

bleeding the clutch is more of an art than a science...

*Start OT rant* (This is nothing personal to funk)

Bleeding the clutch on an e30 is the same as bleeding any hydraulic clutch system, it really isn't that hard, though the internet continually puts it out to be a horror of a job, Twice I have bleed my e30's clutch (both gravity bleed and normal - push down clutch, hold, crack nipple etc...) And had no troubles what so ever, I've also done the same way on many other cars with the same results.

Just adding that the only difference between my clutch, and your clutches is that my car is RHD, but I doubt that changes anything.

*end rant*

Sorry guys.

[Funkmasta]

Bleeding the clutch on an e30 is the same as bleeding any hydraulic clutch system,

Not really. The clutch system you have to compress the pressure plate and the air, unlike a braking system, where once the pads hit the rotor, then you're just compressing air.

A pressure bleeder is your best friend when bleeding a clutch.

[chadthestampede]

Alright, well despite that I bled the clutch and drove it today..........

it's crazy loud, and stalls a lot.

It seems to rev okay in neutral, but when it's in gear it revs to 2k and then dies. i had a similar problem with my old m20, and I couldn't figure out what it was. I fiddled around with the o2 sensor and it suddenly started working. Now I don't have an oxygen sensor for this engine, so I thought that might be a problem. however, I've heard that you don't have to run an o2 sensor...?

Also the clutch is super stiff, I might have to bleed it more, but it might also be because the clutch is new.

oh yeah and for some reason my windows don't work.