Temperature gauge spikes from middle into red and car intermittently hesitates.......

[Learning]

I checked months ago for a vacuum leak and found none.

In regards to a fuel delivery problem, could it be caused by a faulty fuel pump? Months ago (while my car was having the bad hesitation problem) I did a fuel pressure test and it was fine. I also replaced the fuel filter around that time.
Also checked the fuel pump relay and it was alright.

Could the problem caused by a bad oxygen sensor itself? When my car was hesitating badly and running rich, I thought it was caused by a faulty O2 sensor (because the code said so) and so I replaced it and yet the problem persisted continuously for about 5 months until I replaced the ground wire and solved the problem. Might the O2 sensor have been damaged by the bad hesitation problem that lasted for months?
My O2 sensor is still under warranty and so I can go exchange for a new one at no cost.

UPDATE: This afternoon I had my mechanic check the O2 sensor and it had some greenish and grayish colors and so we replaced it with a new one thinking it would solve the problem, however, the CEL was still blinking to my surprise.

[Ryann]

1222 is an oxygen sensor lean code, which usually means you either have a fuel delivery problem or more likely a vacuum leak. Too much air, not enough fuel.

I'd guess this is probably unrelated to the electrical problems you're experiencing.

[Learning]

OK, I did the 'stomp test' and I got code 1222.
What exactly is the problem?

[///digitalme]

check to see all the ground cables are clean and dry, my temp gauge moves all the time when it rains.

[Ryann]

Do the "stomp test" and tell us what codes you get.

[copied from e30world.com]
1. For safety reasons, put the transmission in neutral, and turn the ignition key to "On" position but do not start the car
2. In quick succession fully depress and release accelerator pedal 5 (five) times
3. After couple of seconds Check Engine light will blink once, and start to flash code(s)
4. All codes are composed of 4 digits (see table below). For example, code 1211 is represented as Blink, pause, Blink Blink, pause, Blink, pause, Blink
5. When code(s) start to repeat, all of them have been displayed

As previously mentioned you should also remove your gauge cluster and verify all connections.

[Learning]

It's been almost 2 months since I replaced the the ground wire, installed a new alternator, and also replaced the alternator ground wire with a thicker one. However, it feels like my car is not running as smooth as it should be although it's running very well. Lately, I've noticed the check engine light has been coming on frequently and blinking like a Christmas tree light. However, on certain days the CEL doesnt' come on at all. I've also noticed that the temperature gauge has been fluctuating back and forth but for a few millimeters only from the center line to the right and back to the center line again. Also, the little lights has been flickering. I sense that there is an inappropriate flow of voltage (there is voltage fluctuation) and that's why the problem. I replaced my old battery with a new one also about 2 months ago,
Hopefully, someone here can pinpoint what the problem is.

[///digitalme]

my cigarette lighter isnt even working FML

Have you checked the fuse? Mine didn't work I thought it just didn't work it was the fuse

[fiftytakedowns]

Check the voltage at your cigarette lighter when this is happening. The car will do all sorts of weird shit if your alternator or voltage regulator are intermittently failing.

my cigarette lighter isnt even working FML

[fiftytakedowns]

Should I get an alternator ground wire made specifically for my BMW or will any alternator ground wire work? I checked with an after market store in my area and a BMW's alternator ground wire cost $15 just for a very short and small ground wire!

Anyone knows any site online that has the best prices and selections for auto/BMW parts?

I am curious as well. Where are all the grounds engine to chassis alternator? DME?

[Learning]

Should I get an alternator ground wire made specifically for my BMW or will any alternator ground wire work? I checked with an after market store in my area and a BMW's alternator ground wire cost $15 just for a very short and small ground wire!

Anyone knows any site online that has the best prices and selections for auto/BMW parts?

[Ryann]

I replaced the ground strap underneath the car on the passenger side and thanks goodness it fixed the problem. Now, I would like to know how many ground straps are there in this car? I've also peeled off the dried cracked jacket of the strap that goes from the alternator to the engine block and wrapped it around with a black tape. I'm sure if all the ground straps are replaced or taken care of, the voltage will be running smoothly/won't be fluctuating even a bit at all.

Brown wires are grounds. Important grounding points in our cars are at the inner quarter panel next to the battery, behind the passenger strut tower under the hood, and in front of the driver side tower. I'd replace your alt. ground wire vs. wrapping it with tape. Scrape connection points to the chassis down to bare metal and hose all wire ends/connection points down with battery terminal protector.

[Learning]

I replaced the ground strap underneath the car on the passenger side and thanks goodness it fixed the problem. Now, I would like to know how many ground straps are there in this car? I've also peeled off the dried cracked jacket of the strap that goes from the alternator to the engine block and wrapped it around with a black tape. I'm sure if all the ground straps are replaced or taken care of, the voltage will be running smoothly/won't be fluctuating even a bit at all.

[immajackuup]

nut in back of cluster gauge is loose.

[Ryann]

Also, if your alternator has failed, you should have an indicator on in the instrument panel.

[Ryann]

Why did you have to charge it 2 weeks ago?

If you've got a crappy ground connection between the alternator and the battery your alternator won't charge the battery. You're alternator might be toast at this point, and it's tough to help you from a distance, but if I were there to help you I'd run a 1/0 ground cable directly from the battery to your engine block and watch the problems disappear.

If you've got a good battery and no alternator your car will run off of the battery's reserve juice, for a while. Years ago, your battery was already out of reserve juice and the car was relying on the alternator's output to run. Then your alternator got too hot and stressed and gave up, leaving you on the side of the road.