New timing components?!

[salvuhdor]

Thanks - where'd you get the tool and how much was it? I did the thermostat, water pump and timing gaskets already. Part of the reason why I'm not looking forward to diving in there again, lol

The cam locking tool cost me a little over $100 shipped. I will rent it out for $20/ a week

[Tisoc]

I am not looking forward to doing this on my car... When I bought it, I couldn't hear the timing chain making noise because it had no exhaust from the cat back. Now that it's together and running I can hear it loud and clear! The tensioner was replaced about 7yrs ago, but I don't think they did anything else.

Is the process pretty straightforward - put the engine at TDC, lock the cams in place, break loose all the timing components, remove and re-assemble with new components? I've only ever done timing belts before.

It looks like that pressure relief valve is located inside the oil pump assembly, or am I looking at the diagram wrong? I need a Bentley manual...

It's not too bad, if a 17 year old punk with no prior experience working on cars could do it, then you shouldn't sweat it. Research is key. http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html This is a great write-up.

[MazterDizazter]

Thanks - where'd you get the tool and how much was it? I did the thermostat, water pump and timing gaskets already. Part of the reason why I'm not looking forward to diving in there again, lol

[salvuhdor]

I am not looking forward to doing this on my car... When I bought it, I couldn't hear the timing chain making noise because it had no exhaust from the cat back. Now that it's together and running I can hear it loud and clear! The tensioner was replaced about 7yrs ago, but I don't think they did anything else.

Is the process pretty straightforward - put the engine at TDC, lock the cams in place, break loose all the timing components, remove and re-assemble with new components? I've only ever done timing belts before.

It looks like that pressure relief valve is located inside the oil pump assembly, or am I looking at the diagram wrong? I need a Bentley manual...

That sounds about right.
I am currently doing this to my car, its up on jacks right now and my cam locking tool w/ flywheel lock just came in so I will be finishing this project soon. (I can ship it to you if you want to rent it)

If you get a bentley manual and working on you 91 318is engine get an e36 manual from years 1992+ because that m42 engine is not covered in the other e30 service manuals.
Its pretty straight forward, I'd recommend doing the thermostat and waterpump with according gaskets if you need to.

[MazterDizazter]

I am not looking forward to doing this on my car... When I bought it, I couldn't hear the timing chain making noise because it had no exhaust from the cat back. Now that it's together and running I can hear it loud and clear! The tensioner was replaced about 7yrs ago, but I don't think they did anything else.

Is the process pretty straightforward - put the engine at TDC, lock the cams in place, break loose all the timing components, remove and re-assemble with new components? I've only ever done timing belts before.

It looks like that pressure relief valve is located inside the oil pump assembly, or am I looking at the diagram wrong? I need a Bentley manual...

[bmwm42]

Iwis is oem supplier fyi

[roguetoaster]

Okay guys thanks I think I might as well go with the genuine BMW timing chain. I have all replacement gaskets already and will buy the crankshaft bolt since its not that expensive even if I might not need to replace it.

My car is definitely within spec, I'd would bet my life on it...


So this oil pressure relief valve you guys are talking about. Should I look for it at the pelican site? Whats the purpose of this part?

I really don't think you need to go with a BMW branded part for the chain for 3x the going rate for a good chain. Looked it up, I purchased an Iwisketten chain for $53 and it is still just fine. After all, it is a double row chain and is probably the least failure prone part of the whole system


I wouldn't bet it was still within spec after 50k-75k miles. Still, it's not a huge deal if it is or not.

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...mp_with_drive/ #s 5-8 is the whole thing, the part number might not be the updated one so look around a bit.

[salvuhdor]

Okay guys thanks I think I might as well go with the genuine BMW timing chain. I have all replacement gaskets already and will buy the crankshaft bolt since its not that expensive even if I might not need to replace it.

My car is definitely within spec, I'd would bet my life on it...


So this oil pressure relief valve you guys are talking about. Should I look for it at the pelican site? Whats the purpose of this part?

[twistednut]

Where did you read the bolt is torque to yield and needs replacement? Further, almost no one ends up torquing it properly as it's not easy to lock the crank solidly other than via the FW.

Page 117-6 in the e36 Bentley. 244 ft/lbs.
What's another $10 for a bolt that should be replaced when you are dropping 7 bills for all new timing components.

You can properly hold the crank with a crank holding tool and renting a 250# torque wrench to properly torque the bolt.

[bmwm42]

ive reused the crankbolt many times no issues and my engine had over 400k before i pulled it and was still great just was starting to have issues with oil pressure because of the pump

[roguetoaster]

Okay I'm in the final steps of ordering.

The genuine BMW timing chain is $175 on pelican but there is another brand for $50. Should I save $125 by going aftermarket?

P.S everything I bought for this project is all genuine BMW including the gaskets and all guides, rails etc but there is a big price difference on timing chain.
Anyone have knowledge on this matter?! Big quality difference? on the site, BMW timing chain has 2 year warranty the other has 1 year.

The chain is an okay place to save some money, last non BMW one I put on an M42 is still running fine as far as I know. Which brand is it anyway?

FYI The crankshaft bolt is TTY and needs to be replaced. Also, the upper bolt on the driver side guide rail needs to be replaced with the updated version which is slightly longer.

If I was doing this job I would take the time to drop the lower and upper pans and check the thrust bearing for excessive wear before ordering any timing components. If it is out of spec I would put everything back together and start looking for a replacement motor. If it is within spec I would replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version and replace the pan gaskets and then replace the timing components.

Where did you read the bolt is torque to yield and needs replacement? Further, almost no one ends up torquing it properly as it's not easy to lock the crank solidly other than via the FW.

I get the point you are making, but frankly many, if not most, of the 20+ year old engines are out of spec (often way out), but they run reasonably. So it really does not make sense to get a replacement engine as long as the current one is not knocking or spewing oil and still makes good butt dyno numbers. Further, if this engine gives it up in some way other than the timing gear you can just take all of these new parts and put them on a new engine at that time.

Doing the oil pressure relief valve is a good idea, IIRC the updated one is plastic, so be sure to ask specifically if you are going to order it as some places use old and new parts rather interchangeably.

[twistednut]

FYI The crankshaft bolt is TTY and needs to be replaced. Also, the upper bolt on the driver side guide rail needs to be replaced with the updated version which is slightly longer.

If I was doing this job I would take the time to drop the lower and upper pans and check the thrust bearing for excessive wear before ordering any timing components. If it is out of spec I would put everything back together and start looking for a replacement motor. If it is within spec I would replace the oil pressure relief valve with the updated version and replace the pan gaskets and then replace the timing components.

[salvuhdor]

Okay I'm in the final steps of ordering.

The genuine BMW timing chain is $175 on pelican but there is another brand for $50. Should I save $125 by going aftermarket?

P.S everything I bought for this project is all genuine BMW including the gaskets and all guides, rails etc but there is a big price difference on timing chain.
Anyone have knowledge on this matter?! Big quality difference? on the site, BMW timing chain has 2 year warranty the other has 1 year.

[HarukoE30]

I've removed a engine before never an e30 or let alone a BMW engine. I have tools and all but it would seem more convenient for me to just work on the timing components while engine is intact and hood is removed of course.

I'm already aware of the crank bolt and have an idea in how I'm going to go at it.

Thanks for the advice!

Just take your time, but also post in the Cali sub-forum to see if anyone can assist. Great community there.

[roguetoaster]

I've removed a engine before never an e30 or let alone a BMW engine. I have tools and all but it would seem more convenient for me to just work on the timing components while engine is intact and hood is removed of course.

I'm already aware of the crank bolt and have an idea in how I'm going to go at it.

Thanks for the advice!

It really isn't too bad in car, which is only way I have done it, just remove the radiator and if you have a helper, the hood too.

As for the crank bolt, try it by hand first, with the flywheel locked (some may take issue with this), as it may have been off before. Failing that you can use the starter to remove it, seems like a scary prospect, but it does work (make sure the flywheel is unlocked of course). When I did used the starter I put a bit of 2x4 on the chassis, got some pipe to extend the length breaker, taped the socket in place on the bolt to prevent breaking the socket or rounding the bolt and just let it hit the wood rather that the car itself.