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Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

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    #16
    You can use the starter (jump with 12v) to spin a replacement engine if it's out and you want to do a compression test. It's an iffy procedure, but doable, I suggest buying from a trustworthy person instead.

    M42 heads are around, I have 2 just sitting (one with Schricks and all the top end goodies), so just make a WTB.

    This would also be a great time to swap to another engine if you want, but you should 100% read up on CA BAR. My suggestion for an optimal swap is an M54 instead of an M50/52. Slightly more work, but probably better overall.

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      #17
      I put out a WTB thread.

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...90&postcount=1




      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #18
        Cool, if you can't dig one up locally keep me in mind as a source.

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          #19
          roguetoaster, i PM'd you.

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            #20
            its been a couple days since i drained the oil to find out that it is milky. do i need to do an engine flush to get all that crap out before i get started pulling off stuff?

            will the coolant/water that got mixed with the oil damage any of the internals?

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              #21
              From an environmental perspective alone, DEFINITELY drain all the fluids. From an ease of cleanup you should do it as well. Ill never forget when I had my M42 on the engine stand and turned it upside down and lost another quart of fluid.

              I had about 6 bags of kitty litter in my garage for that project...

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                #22
                Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                M42 heads are around, I have 2 just sitting (one with Schricks and all the top end goodies), so just make a WTB.
                Save it for me! Have you had this head in a running car? what did you get from the Schrick cams? I thought BMW already had pretty tall cam lobes?

                I have an e36 head on my e30. I had read that the E36 is actually not as performance oriented as the E30 cam but I never confirmed with a gauge. I can say that the e36 valves are lighter with the e36.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by jaredmac11 View Post
                  From an environmental perspective alone, DEFINITELY drain all the fluids. From an ease of cleanup you should do it as well. Ill never forget when I had my M42 on the engine stand and turned it upside down and lost another quart of fluid.

                  I had about 6 bags of kitty litter in my garage for that project...
                  no doubt, but what i meant was since i have the coolant/oil/mixture already in the head/block, do i need to run a few oil changes (i can just use cheap oil), just to get all that gunk out? when i look under the cap, theres still light colored oil in the grooves which makes me think there's gotta be more throughout the head and block.

                  or is that unnecessary at this point and just start to take the head off since i already drained the oil? then do the oil flush cycle when i replace the head with a good one?

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                    #24
                    If youre taking your head in to get inspected, they will likely include a wash with that so I wouldnt worry about it. As for the block, I'll wait for someone wiser than me, but I imagine it shouldnt be a significant concern.

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                      #25
                      Don't worry too much about getting things perfectly clean prior to disassembly. You can flush the cooling system with hose water, and for the oil passages, run some cheap oil + a detergent additive like Rislone for a few minutes once it is all back together. Drain it, put in good oil and you are set.

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                        #26
                        awesome, thanks for the quick responses. this is helping me a lot. still trying to source an m42 head locally, before hitting up roguemaster for his stock m42 head.

                        i was browsing craigslist and also came across an m50 (no trans) engine for around 1k. is that expensive?

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                          #27
                          Brutal around here. You can find an M50 (with car attached) for not more than that.

                          As to your milkshake, don't worry about that yet.

                          When it's all back together, bring it up to temp, do all the things you should do hot,
                          then drain and refill the oil, and a new filter. You'll be fine with that.

                          hth

                          t
                          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                            #28
                            When prepping to swap the head, it was mentioned to remove belt and pulleys. Does this mean to remove the alternator and power steering pump? Do I need to touch the a/c compressor and tensioner pulley other than remove its drive belt?


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                              #29
                              I would just say get in there and remove what makes your life easier. You certainly dont have to strip down the whole engine.. Anything you remove, save the bolt and whatever else in a baggy, label it, and keep them together.

                              Helps to take pics before, during, after disassembly to make reassembly easier.

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                                #30
                                You should be able to leave the A/C system pressurized. You might (I forget why I had to)
                                have to unbolt it from the block but that's not too hard...

                                t
                                now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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