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Oil filter housing gasket replacement - some questions

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    Oil filter housing gasket replacement - some questions

    Anyone know the torque specs on the bolts that hold the oil filter housing to the block? Also, does the gasket need sealant and is a particular one recommended? Finally, should I dump the oil first or does it matter?

    Planning to replace this gasket, plus the dipstick o-ring in the next week or two. Iíll need an oil change around the same time if that makes it easier. Thanks much!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
    The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
    The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred

    #2
    You don't have to drain the oil but what runs out of the housing is going to make a mess.

    Gasket goes on dry. Make sure the filter housing and block are squeaky clean. Also change the housing O-ring. Don't know the torque spec but it threads into aluminum so be careful.

    Comment


      #3
      Perfect, thank you!! Iíll be cleaning it up with some Gunk before pulling anything out, is there a cleaner I should use on that area once itís off? Will probably just do the oil change at the same time I do the gasket replacement. I have the housing o-ring coming as part of my order from FCP. Also ordered the oil pressure switch to replace ďwhile Iím in there.Ē

      Should be fun. Or a total disaster! Keep you posted!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
      The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
      The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred

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        #4
        I use brake clean. Clean the general area before you start turning bolts to keep it out of the oil passages..

        Replace the oil in the housing when your done vs. pouring it in through the valve cover.

        Comment


          #5
          Do yourselves a favor and go to the Dollar Tree and pick up 5 bottles for $5 of 'LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner'. Its a yellow chemical in a clear bottle with read writing.

          Great degreaser. I prefer it over brake clean (except for cleaning brakes) and stuff like Purple Power. Saves me heaps of money on degreasers that can be 3-10x as much and works just as well, if not better.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jaredmac11 View Post
            Do yourselves a favor and go to the Dollar Tree and pick up 5 bottles for $5 of 'LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner'. Its a yellow chemical in a clear bottle with read writing.

            Great degreaser. I prefer it over brake clean (except for cleaning brakes) and stuff like Purple Power. Saves me heaps of money on degreasers that can be 3-10x as much and works just as well, if not better.


            Good tip. I have a big bottle of that stuff under the sink and itís super cheap, will give it a shot before buying anything stronger. I have some super greasy areas on the front part of the engine from this (been leaking a while, but a slow seep rather than puking oil). Eventually will do the entire engine compartment, when I get around to swapping out the noise dampening pad on the underside of the hood.

            Parts arrive Monday. Itíll be good to get this ticked off the punch list!


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
            The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
            The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred

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              #7
              Also be sure to apply a little clean motor oil to the rubber O-ring and bore that it inserts into. Otherwise it can catch and roll/twist, failing to seal. Obviously avoid knocking ANY crud into this bore since it is the clean oil inlet to the engine, and stuff like main bearings and lifters don't like dirt in them.

              I usually spray a thin layer of Permatex High-Tack Non-Curing gasket sealer onto both sides of the paper gasket and let it sit/dry for ~5 minutes. This both helps to hold it in place, and to ensure a decent seal against the metal faces. The spray can stuff is good because you can get it on there nice and thin, versus applying thick goop which allows the paper webs to squeeze out of place. THIN is key.

              Comment


                #8
                ^ I agree on the gasket spray. I prefer permatex copper spray lightly applied to either side of the gasket.

                -NICK

                Comment


                  #9
                  Nice, thanks for the tips! Is one Permatex better than the other? Also, others had a different point of view on sealer, these are paper gaskets and Iím not keen on redoing this one, just want to make sure Iím doing it correctly.

                  Any words of wisdom on torque? Planning on 40 ft-lbs (think this is the setting for the lower oil pan to the block, will double check) but could be not enough?


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                  Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
                  The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
                  The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I think that 40ft-lbs is too much and you will strip out all of your bolts if you use that torque.

                    When I did my oil filter I used this thread which helped

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=275760

                    and found a copy of the E36 service manual which covers the M42/44 engines specifically, but doesn't provide guidence on the oil filter housing to block bolt torque spec it seems

                    7-10ft-lbs is what people seem to be using, I think I went with 7ft-lbs

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=303900

                    Good luck!



                    Originally posted by majdomo View Post
                    Nice, thanks for the tips! Is one Permatex better than the other? Also, others had a different point of view on sealer, these are paper gaskets and I’m not keen on redoing this one, just want to make sure I’m doing it correctly.

                    Any words of wisdom on torque? Planning on 40 ft-lbs (think this is the setting for the lower oil pan to the block, will double check) but could be not enough?


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                    Last edited by Gkwan; 08-19-2018, 07:20 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      snug tight and then a bit more. These are just sealing the case, not holding the drivetrain together. Definitely not 40 ft lbs.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Phew, glad I asked! Thanks very much for the links, I did a search a while back and came up empty handed.

                        Still learning, grasshopper here...thanks!!


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
                        The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
                        The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred

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                          #13
                          Hah, ignore my old advice in those linked threads about the grey RTV. Spray stuff is what you want!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Oil filter housing gasket replacement - some questions

                            Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
                            Hah, ignore my old advice in those linked threads about the grey RTV. Spray stuff is what you want!


                            Thanks! It looks like Permatex only makes the copper stuff in spray form, I saw one of the earlier posters use this, will that work? Ordering off Amazon later!

                            Never mind - found the spray!

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            Last edited by majdomo; 08-21-2018, 07:33 AM.
                            Current flame: E30 318iS Alpinweiss II slicktop / LSD - Joanne
                            The ex: E92 335i 6MT M-Sport - Betty
                            The heavy: 2001 4Runner SR5 Sport (3rd Gen) - Fred

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Use the OEM O-ring. I tried off-the-shelf O-rings and they didn't quite fit right. Always fun to turn the engine on and have it spraying oil all over. The OEM one is a couple bucks and there were a ton available at the local dealer warehouses.

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