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Oil filter housing gasket replacement - some questions

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  • majdomo
    replied
    the UV dye was pretty effective and kept me from tearing the front of the engine off. in this instance i'm just having them do it. i know this is an easy DIY but i've hit these guys up for a bunch of advice in other areas recently and don't mind showing some appreciation.

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    Ha, yeah the new forum software takes some getting used to.

    Maybe I will look into a UV dye test too, since I am not sure where my little leak is coming from after changing the gaskets.

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  • majdomo
    replied
    Small update - UV dye test at mechanic shows it's an upper timing cover leak. fixing next week.

    damn i hate the new r3v.

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  • majdomo
    replied
    This is awesome guys. Thank you!! Wish I had time this coming weekend, but all tied up...may have to wait until next weekend, at least LKQ is having their big sale that weekend.


    Ezekiel 25:17

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    For the fan, aside from being a left-handed thread as Gloff mentioned, I have found that a rubber mallet with a 32mm wrench (either the BMW fan clutch tool or a large crescent wrench) makes it very easy to pop the thing loose. Assuming there's a belt still in there, anyway.

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  • Gloff
    replied
    Originally posted by majdomo View Post
    Is it this thing?: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5940-Head...SIN=B000R5KT7W

    I started pulling apart an M42 in a '94 318is in the junkyard today. Kept pulling and wondering why it didn't just pop off, turns out one of the bolts was completely covered and oil and crap. Anyway, left that one in the yard and felt overmatched, didn't have tools to get the fan off, and figure will need a bf wrench to get the crank bolt off....

    What tools should I bring to the yard if I'm going to gather the cover and case?
    That's the one. Word of note, remove the retainer spring on the end and the ball that holds the bolt it, mine popped off and I almost lost the ball in the head.

    FYI the fan is reverse threaded, the crank bolt is not. The fan is kind of a bitch if you don't have a holding tool, I was always able to use a screwdriver against one of the waterpump bolts to brace it somewhere.

    You will want to bring a long breaker bar and a 22mm socket for the crank bolt. I was able to bust mine loose with a 36" breaker and the flywheel pin in a kit similar to the linked below the photo, which I highly recommend, as bmwman91 mentioned, you can also use an 8mm bolt through the tdc locating hole on the block just below the starter(circled in red). You have to rotate the engine with the crank bolt till it slides in.


    https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-Camshaf...e&sr=1-2-fkmr0

    Timing case bolts are a mix of 6mm allen key, you'll want a socket version though(#2, the upper right one is an allen key on late models, 13mm on early), 10(#6/#3/#4) , 13(#5), and I think 15mm or 16mm(#1) bolts.
    Last edited by Gloff; 07-21-2019, 11:03 PM.

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    You MIGHT be able to pop the crank bolt with an electric impact gun, or a breaker+cheater bar and the car in 5th gear. Even then, the clutch could slip. In that case, you would need way to lock either the crank at the front or at the flywheel. A locking tool for the front is relatively easy to make if you can get a scrap of steel plate and have a drill press. One big hole for the bolt & socket, 6 smaller ones for some M8 bolts and stacked washers behind it. Make it long enough to jam against something solid in there. That is what I made and use.

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  • majdomo
    replied
    Originally posted by Gloff View Post
    Also, bite the bullet and get the E12 etorx long socket specifically for BMW head bolts, worth every penny.

    Is it this thing?: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5940-Head...SIN=B000R5KT7W

    I started pulling apart an M42 in a '94 318is in the junkyard today. Kept pulling the upper timing cover and wondering why it didn't just pop off, turns out one of the bolts was completely covered and oil and crap. Anyway, left that one in the yard and felt overmatched, didn't have tools to get the fan off, and figure will need a bf wrench to get the crank bolt off....

    What tools should I bring to the yard if I'm going to gather the cover and case?
    Last edited by majdomo; 07-21-2019, 10:54 PM.

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  • Gloff
    replied
    Originally posted by majdomo View Post
    Thanks much for the photos and advice!! I'm going to have to get in there a little more to see if it's the timing case or what. My CPS was all wet too so that suggests higher up than the upper pan, but I wasn't able to get a good look up the side of the case. The front of the car is on stands right now (suspension snafu to be finished this week) so have decent access at the moment.

    I have parts for the upper pan gasket on the way from FCP, may just clean it all up really good and then let it ride for a minute to see what happens. If it ends up being the timing case, I may just wait on the upper pan until I can tackle the timing case.

    Edit - can you replace the timing case with the head still on, or does that need to come off as well?

    Looks like you have the engine out for some rebuild work?

    You can do the timing case with the head on, bmwman91 has done it a few times, but its way easier with the head off. Pulling the head is easier than it seems, I've had to do it three times now. If you do pull the head, make sure you get the timing tools, the TDC Pin and Cam locking tool, they can be had on ebay for about $40. Also, bite the bullet and get the E12 etorx long socket specifically for BMW head bolts, worth every penny.

    Yeah, I'm swapping the head and timing case from an E36 M42 to my E30 block. Check out my thread in this subforum, tons of photos. Let me know if you need any other photos, It's halfway assembled right now, finishing it up tomorrow, only have the head torqued and the chain guides back in, lots of stuff still to do!

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  • majdomo
    replied
    Originally posted by Gloff View Post
    Dry. I had mine replaced 8 years ago and 40k miles later it was still dry when I pulled it off.

    This is what bmwman91 is talking about, the lower timing case is notorious for leaking down the side of the block/upper pan/subframe on the passenger side. BMW superseded the paper gasket with a metal one: 11141247633. I plan on replacing mine with the updated gasket, but the paper one is still available.

    Thanks much for the photos and advice!! I'm going to have to get in there a little more to see if it's the timing case or what. My CPS was all wet too so that suggests higher up than the upper pan, but I wasn't able to get a good look up the side of the case. The front of the car is on stands right now (suspension snafu to be finished this week) so have decent access at the moment.

    I have parts for the upper pan gasket on the way from FCP, may just clean it all up really good and then let it ride for a minute to see what happens. If it ends up being the timing case, I may just wait on the upper pan until I can tackle the timing case.

    Edit - can you replace the timing case with the head still on, or does that need to come off as well?

    Looks like you have the engine out for some rebuild work?
    Last edited by majdomo; 07-15-2019, 10:50 AM. Reason: dumb questions I probably shouldn't be asking

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  • Gloff
    replied
    Originally posted by majdomo View Post
    Valve cover was just replaced and is clean and dry. Itís possible itís the timing cover, just cleaned it all up and going to see if I get any seepage. Itís dirty but not greasy, if you know what I mean.

    However itís blown clear back to the end of the trans and all over the subframe. Itís not puking oil but just annoyingly wet. Plus I have no idea when it was done last.

    Should gaskets just go on dry, ythink?


    Ezekiel 25:17
    Dry. I had mine replaced 8 years ago and 40k miles later it was still dry when I pulled it off.

    This is what bmwman91 is talking about, the lower timing case is notorious for leaking down the side of the block/upper pan/subframe on the passenger side. BMW superseded the paper gasket with a metal one: 11141247633. I plan on replacing mine with the updated gasket, but the paper one is still available.



    Here are the bolts for the upper pan, I used blue loctite on the 6 inside the lower pan (circled in the second pic) and the two holding on the pickup tube. As others have found them loose in the pan previously. I'd suggest replacing the pickup tube gasket while you have the pan off as well. Part no.: 11411715116. When putting it back on, clean the bolts up and hand thread them, as the front four go in to aluminum and the pan can move a lot. I stripped one when the pan wasn't on straight. Torque on all the pan bolts is 10nm for 8.8 grade and 12nm for 10.9. All my upper pan bolts were 8.8s.


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  • majdomo
    replied
    Valve cover was just replaced and is clean and dry. Itís possible itís the timing cover, just cleaned it all up and going to see if I get any seepage. Itís dirty but not greasy, if you know what I mean.

    However itís blown clear back to the end of the trans and all over the subframe. Itís not puking oil but just annoyingly wet. Plus I have no idea when it was done last.

    Should gaskets just go on dry, ythink?


    Ezekiel 25:17

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    I would avoid RTV on the oil pan gaskets simply because it can make them nearly impossible to get off in the future. Are you certain that the upper pan gasket is what is leaking? Timing case cover & valve cover leaks can easily run down the side of the engine and spread everywhere, making the oil pans appear to be the culprit.

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  • majdomo
    replied
    Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post
    I can also see your next project...the oil pressure regulator assembly is the old original design. You may have noticed the plunger looking thing in the square holes in the side of the timing case. The original design was metal (which that looks like in the photo), and was later updated to be plastic. Apparently the steel one could gall the aluminum bore and become lodged or something. Swapping that thing is a considerably larger job, though. Also, considering your car is almost 3 decades old, it is probably fine...the design update was in the 90's, so whichever ones were going to fail have likely already done so. Still, if you ever feel the desire to wrench more, that is one item that could use an update. It involves parts 5-8:
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_0504
    Reviving an old thread. The upper oil pan is leaking, so I'm going in and doing both oil pan gaskets, the oil pressure regulator update, and a new earth ground to see if this helps my jumpy temp gauge. Plenty of insulation missing from that anyway.

    I saw somewhere to use grey RTV on the oil pan gaskets, will the spray-a-gasket work as well or should I get some grey RTV?

    Also am worried about the Torx bolts on the back of the bell housing. Ordered up some special sockets for those and will GO SLOW.

    Anything else to do when I'm in there? Looks like fun.

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    Brakes should be fairly easy, although obviously they are what keep you alive so being careful is a good plan! The shifter stuff is simpler than the oil filter housing, but also more of a pain due to some things being a pain in the ass to get apart. There is the "bitch clip" which holds the shifter support to the transmission, and the plastic cup which holds the shifter ball (cups the balls lol). Those two are a little bit of a hassle.


    The oil pump is a whoooooole different level of work. You have to remove the entire timing case to get at it. You can do it without removing the cylinder head, and I have done it a couple of times, but after replacing the head once, I think that it might be easier to pull the head lol...it just costs more since you have to resurface it.

    The timing bits are fairly easy since the timing case does not need to be removed. The onyl hard part is getting the crank damper bolt off. If you have the stock flywheel, you can use an 8mm pin to lock it into place though, which makes it a lot easier. At this point though, I recommend anyone doing a timing job to replace the entire timing case with the 1994+ M42 version which had a couple of design changes that eliminate the single biggest point of failure which was present on the first-gen M42 in our cars (the stupid deflector sprocket...it blows out its bearings and/or breaks off from the timing case entirely).

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