M42 from E36 into E30

[roguetoaster]

If you are okay doing a full reseal and a real cleaning before installing the engine you can certainly run it. However, I would never personally want to buy an engine that has been sitting over one that has been run/pulled recently.

The corrosion isn't too worrying to me, but the information that the engine seller passed on certain does give me pause.

[Gloff]

That doesn't look too unusual for an engine that's been sitting- see if you can look in a few other ways. Pop the heater pipe off the back of the head, maybe.

The M42 never had a plastic oil filter cover, tho- that showed up with the M44,
and the plastic heater pipe on the back of the head.

I have 12-94 and 7-95 318's, and both have aluminum oil filter covers.

t

It's most certainly an M42, it has the front crank sensor and no rear block pipe like the M44. a few of the M42s did get the plastic oil filter housing, not sure when the cross over was, but RealOEM does show both options for the M42.

All I want to know is, should I not be worried about this corrosion because it's past the seal, or should I return this and look for something better?

[TobyB]

That doesn't look too unusual for an engine that's been sitting- see if you can look in a few other ways. Pop the heater pipe off the back of the head, maybe.

The M42 never had a plastic oil filter cover, tho- that showed up with the M44,
and the plastic heater pipe on the back of the head.

I have 12-94 and 7-95 318's, and both have aluminum oil filter covers.

t

[Gloff]

The thing that worries me is, if I do return this and get a motor from another donor, I may end up with the same issue potentially. Is this corrosion a non-issue since it's behind the o-ring on the block/pump interface, or should I be concerned here?

[Gloff]

Got the pump out, Super seized, almost broke the tool, needed a clamp to keep it from slipping off the flange!

Should I return this motor? It's pretty corroded in there, blackish liquid, doesn't look like oil, but who knows, this thing looks like that coolant has been in there a while. Got a couple days to return it.

[Khalbob]

Thanks for the help guys. I bought a used M42 from what I assume to be a 1995 318i/is/ti as it has the plastic oil filter cap. Sent an email to BMW Classic with the engine's serial number, so that I hopefully can get the VIN from the original car.

The engine came from a local wholesaler called Engine World in Emeryville that only buys engines with less than 80k (supposedly). They charge a flat $650 for it. They had a couple, so if anyone else is in need of one, they have another 3 or 4 engines.They do a compression test right in front of you, even 200 PSI across the board, and it has a warranty so that's nice. The M42s were tucked in the far corner of the warehouse, he said they may have had them for years, as they don't get many requests for this engine. Now I am having the experience to write about this at https://edubirdie.com/scholarship-essay-writing-service, because students have problems with essay writing about engine specifics. They recommend that you replace all the seals, so I'll be doing that out of the engine bay.

The waterpump is frozen to the block, so that will be a challenge, reading the horror stories is fun, certainly BMW engineered it better in the future, because my E85 Z4's M54 WP came out super easy with similar miles to the claimed mileage on this M42.

I plan to do a small write up on this swap to help others in the future. I'll be looking at the accessories, and may just keep the E30 original accessories, as I'm going to have to pull the crank pulley anyway.

Thanks for this advice. Personally, I am going to change a new engine on my E30. I even think about non-BMW engines. Sorry for this :devil:

[Gloff]

Can you get a pipe wrench on the front of the casting to try to torque it free? Also, you might as well try the two threaded removal holes that accept M6 screws. Those allow you to put even axial force on it (alternately turning them like 1/8 turn at a time until it breaks free). If it is really badly seized, then the little wings will snap off, but then you will be looking at other means by then anyway.

Are there big signs of corrosion on other parts of the cooling system (tstat housing and stuff)?

The ears already broke, that was what I tried first. The cooling system looks fine otherwise, this motor has been sitting a while though that much is obvious. There was some black looking stuff in the block behind the thermostat, but it looks like just old water/coolant. I'm probably going to hose it out before I go ordering all the seals/WP etc...

Once the WP comes out I should be able to get a better look at what's going on in the coolant passages.

[bmwman91]

Can you get a pipe wrench on the front of the casting to try to torque it free? Also, you might as well try the two threaded removal holes that accept M6 screws. Those allow you to put even axial force on it (alternately turning them like 1/8 turn at a time until it breaks free). If it is really badly seized, then the little wings will snap off, but then you will be looking at other means by then anyway.

Are there big signs of corrosion on other parts of the cooling system (tstat housing and stuff)?

[Gloff]

You did it right. The E36 has an updated timing cover and chain guide.

However, the E30 manifold flows significantly better, as do the equal length headers, so be sure to keep both of those for the new engine.

In the plans. Right now this stupid water pump won't budge, wacked it with a ball peen hammer, tried prying it with a pickle fork, combination of the previous, nada, so I ordered a water pump puller that one of the members sells, hopefully that gets it, otherwise this motor goes back restocking fee be damned!

[chriso]

You did it right. The E36 has an updated timing cover and chain guide.

However, the E30 manifold flows significantly better, as do the equal length headers, so be sure to keep both of those for the new engine.

[roguetoaster]

Pretty sure the change in thermo temp was emissions related and had something to do with converting to an E fan.

[Gloff]

Another side note, the later M42s use a 92° thermostat and the E30 uses an 88° one, but the housing and o ring are the same part number. Any reason not to run the E30 88° version?

[Gloff]

Thanks for the help guys. I bought a used M42 from what I assume to be a 1995 318i/is/ti as it has the plastic oil filter cap. Sent an email to BMW Classic with the engine's serial number, so that I hopefully can get the VIN from the original car.

The engine came from a local wholesaler called Engine World in Emeryville that only buys engines with less than 80k (supposedly). They charge a flat $650 for it. They had a couple, so if anyone else is in need of one, they have another 3 or 4 engines.They do a compression test right in front of you, even 200 PSI across the board, and it has a warranty so that's nice. The M42s were tucked in the far corner of the warehouse, he said they may have had them for years, as they don't get many requests for this engine. They recommend that you replace all the seals, so I'll be doing that out of the engine bay.

The waterpump is frozen to the block, so that will be a challenge, reading the horror stories is fun, certainly BMW engineered it better in the future, because my E85 Z4's M54 WP came out super easy with similar miles to the claimed mileage on this M42.

I plan to do a small write up on this swap to help others in the future. I'll be looking at the accessories, and may just keep the E30 original accessories, as I'm going to have to pull the crank pulley anyway.

[Gloff]

So my 95 318ti has a serpentine setup and E30 style cam/crank sensors. With oil pans and intake swapped it would certainly work in an E30.

I can check if the PS pump and AC compressor appear to be the same if interested.

That would be awesome, thanks. I was concerned with hookup for the alternator and clearance for the dipstick since it's front mount on the E30 and rear mount on E36. RealOEM has the alternator/ps pump/compressor as different part numbers, but I wonder if those will just hook up to the E30 connections. I have no issue running all the E36 accessories if the hookups are all straightforward.

[roguetoaster]

So my 95 318ti has a serpentine setup and E30 style cam/crank sensors. With oil pans and intake swapped it would certainly work in an E30.

I can check if the PS pump and AC compressor appear to be the same if interested.