So after shaving my oil pan against a curb, I know I know, a few fellow forum members helped sourced the very expensive sump! Below are some tips for anyone that need them.
  1. Lift the car safely, I used ramps plus stands, earthquake proof!
  2. Remove engine mounts lower nuts. PB blaster is your friend, I soaked the hell of the engine mounts nuts and let them sit overnight.
  3. Detach the power steering pump from the upper oil pan and strap a bungee to the pump to hold it.
  4. Loosen the fan shroud is just two expanding rivets on the top corners, unclip the airbox or loosen the rubber boot form the MAF, and remove the long harness plastic cover on behind the engine. This is in preparation for the engine lifting.
  5. Remove oil dipstick tube, it is just supported by one bolt, then just pull out nice and easy.
  6. Lift engine about 4 inches, use the front engine lifting bracket. THIS IS A MUST, it is physically impossible to remove/reinstall the upper oil pan without raising the engine. It is very easy if you use an engine support bar, got mine at Harbor freight for $60 with a coupon. Other people have removed the subframe but seriously using the engine support was very easy.
  7. Remove all oil pan bolts, do this by hand (NO POWER TOOLS), gently so you don't strip or brake anything, remember these are screwed into aluminum. Don't forget two long bolts in the back that you access through two holes on the transmission bell housing. Also there are 3 male torx bolts that attach the upper oil pan to the transmission, again PB blaster is your friend, make sure you use the correct female torx socket -it is a snug fit- or you will strip them, these must be tightened last when you reinstall the pan. In the unlucky case that these torx bolts are stripped and you could not get them unscrewed, cut the head off with a dremel and the pan will come off, you will have to use an extractor to fix the mess.
  8. Reinstall everything, I decided to buy new oil pans to eliminate the chance of any warped mating surface and hence oil leaks. Clean all mating surfaces neatly, clean the bolts or use new, use blue thread-locker, and grey rtv or honda bond to lightly dress your gaskets. Don't forget to replace the sump gasket. DO use a torque wrench and torque all bolts to 89 in-lbs, READ inch-pounds, it is a very low torque, so precision is a must to prevent stripping.
  9. When lowering the engine, do it slowly and make sure the engine mounts get inserted correctly and don't get damaged.
  10. Leave 24 hours for the rtv to cure. Bolts do not need to be re-torqued from what I read. Put new oil and filter and go drive!

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