Would you recommend me doing my own clutch?

[99em1]

Just did this job. Didn't change the clutch, but swapped trannies. It's a super pain in the ass. Not technically advanced, but be prepared to spend lots of time on things that end up being 1 minute solutions. Pretty straight forward, you can do it if you put your mind to it.

One piece of advice from my experience that I haven't seen, but the starter bolts were the easiest part of the process, even though I was expecting the opposite from what people have told me. No manifold BS, just snaked my hand around to seat the nut and finger tighten it. Once it's finger tight, I stuck on a crow foot flare nut socket, had my friend tighten the bolt, and the socket will turn and eventually bind on the starter and stop. Then just finish tightening the bolt and pop the socket off. The starter bolts literally took 10 minutes to do. Sure didn't take 10 minutes to figure that out though lol. And carpel tunnel is unavoidable with this method.

[kishg]

jim is spot on as usual. unless your in a big rush, pull the motor/trans out and R&R both. rear main seal is an obvious "while you're in there" item.

[jlevie]

The top bolts are a pain. Disconnecting the motor mounts and using an engine brace to lift the front of the motor, while allowing the transmission to sag down gives you more room to work. Getting at the top bolts really wants a helper up to to guide the socket onto the bolts.

+1 on the suggestion to start soaking the header and exhaust nuts with PBlaster or Kroil several days in advance. And have new nuts and exhaust gaskets on hand. I'd inspect the transmission and drive shaft before tearing into the clutch job. New seals are easy to install with the transmission out and it is easy to rebuild the shifter. In a like manner a new guibo, or even replacing the drive shaft and center bearing can be a part of the job.

Unless I'm in a hurry or changing a clutch at the track I'll just pull the engine and transmission to change a clutch. Once everything under the car is off to gain access to the drive shaft and transmission you are 80% of the way to being able to pull the engine. If the car has the original clutch it is a safe bet to say that the engine needs a re-seal and cleaning.

[scottinAZ]

di it yourself, but do another favor and just use a new clutch. They arent enough fun to do a second time when the used one shits itself in short order.

[rbhanks]

Get these
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00914019000P

And this autozone sales it. it can break loose ball joint tapers.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05222-Free.../dp/B000KKCQUW

[99em1]

^^ Those top bolts are killer. Can't remember my exact setup because it was around 4 am but it was something like 20in 1/2 breaker, 18in 1/2 extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, couple various length 3/8 extensions I had, 3/8 u joint, short 3/8 extender to the torx socket. Pretty sure there might have been a 1/2 u joint in there somewhere too.

Doesn't actually matter what the rig is, since I found it easier to just piece it together from the bolt outwards. Start by seating the torx socket on the bolt, best with a short extension so you can get just enough grip to seat it, then start piecing the necessary extensions/ujoints/adapters etc until you finally get enough to comfortably break it loose. Learned the hard way that trying to guide a floppy ass extension/ujoint contraption through anything is a sure and quick path to some serious hulk rage.

[ldsbeaker]

Yes, it can be done in a parking lot.
We didn't use jackstands, though. We lifted the wheels onto spare wheels laying flat, then put about 10.5" worth of 12"x12"x1.5" blocks under the driver's front wheel. It was perfect.
Break out ALL your extensions and u-joints for those tranny mounting bolts. They're reverse torx, so go buy the set. E10, E12, E13?
Bring all your best swear words, and get an alignment tool. Don't fucking cheap out. Just buy the damn tool. You can use wood to prevent the flywheel from turning if you decide to pull it off.
I can't remember if you have to remove the exhaust to pull the tranny in an e30, pretty sure you do. Start soaking the downpipe bolts NOW. PB Blaster, Kroil, whatever. Just do it.
Then get out your breaker bar, some extensions, and a 6pt socket and have at it. Make sure the socket is on the nut squarely, or else you WILL round one off. Have fun after that.
Better off using new hardware for those, you'll thank yourself later.

[99em1]

The pre 86 ETA's had single mass, and 86-88 had dual mass flywheels. If you're in no rush just pull the tranny and it'll be obvious which you have.

And yeah you can definitely do it yourself. You just need someone to commiserate and have plenty of brews.

[Dude]

I think i might need to get a new clutch. I have an 86 eta but the manufacture date is like 85/11. And i found some thread on e30tech saying its two different clutchs. Wtffff

[xwill112x]

you dont have to get the flywheel resurfaced, as long as it doesn't look scored or have any obvious issue's you should be fine. didn't do it to any of my e30's and my clutch's never slip.

[Danny]

It would be easier yes.

And you'll have to take the fly off to get it resurfaced, so I hope you have a torque wrench.

[xwill112x]

yes. lol you have to pull the trans. just make sure not to let it hang on the input shaft

[Dude]

I guess just get it as high as safely possible on jack stands. Then do you have to like pull the tranny out?

[xwill112x]

dude you dont even need an alignment tool, just make sure that the puck is lined up with the input shaft and you're good. only way to learn is to jump in!

[Dude]

Accessing the bellhousing bolts is the most difficult part. As long as you have an alignment tool, it's pretty simple.

go on