Sloppy Shifter

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  • mkcman17
    replied
    Originally posted by trackjunkie21
    BMA autoparts has the whole shifter rebuild kit.
    http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?coo...ntid=bmaparts&
    I bought that kit, and it's not even close to 'complete'

    edit: it's not even a great deal. on rmeuro, z3 shift levers are 66.02, and the cup bushing is $4.22, bearing sleeve $6.98, and $0.68 for each of the two clips. instead, buy ALL the shifter bushings a la carte, and pick the lever of your choice. BMA is missing the shift rod joint and rear carrier.
    Last edited by mkcman17; 04-26-2011, 11:43 AM.

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  • trackjunkie21
    replied
    BMA autoparts has the whole shifter rebuild kit.
    http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?coo...ntid=bmaparts&

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  • mkcman17
    replied
    I drove a car with a basic short shifter refresh and his felt like new compared to mine. His car had far more miles and a less complete job for far better results.

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  • redhatpat
    replied
    I did a FULL shifter rebuild on my 325i (everything except for #1, 6, 11) and the difference was night and day, fully worth it. I took the time to lower the exhaust and drive shaft so I could replace #14 and the shift selector seal.

    I kept the original shifter and it's very nice when it's working as designed. You have to keep in mind these were designed as luxury sport cars, and as such have some tolerance built in with rubber bushings to minimize the vibration sent through the shifter.

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  • mkcman17
    replied
    Originally posted by Ian F
    Currently, I'm whining... at least until I spring for a UUC or AKG shifter. My point is (and always has been in this thread), is it is a shitty 20+ year old design and if you are used to shifter in more modern cars then just bringing it back to OE spec may not be satisfactory. It's not for me.
    i did a FULL shifter rebuild; new lever, cup, t-joint and foam, carrier, front bushing, and new clips and washers....barely better than before. totally disappointed i spent the time and money on it.

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  • kaiser16
    replied
    I wanted to buy the same bushing kit on pelicanparts.com but it doesn't say what comes with it, did it help you any bit?

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  • Ian F
    replied
    Originally posted by rjcaptsean
    Or just content to whine about how a 20 year old luxury/sport car doesn't feel as tight as a comparable female of our species? ;)
    Currently, I'm whining... at least until I spring for a UUC or AKG shifter. My point is (and always has been in this thread), is it is a shitty 20+ year old design and if you are used to shifter in more modern cars then just bringing it back to OE spec may not be satisfactory. It's not for me.

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  • rjcaptsean
    replied
    Originally posted by Ian F
    And I'll repeat myself... again... you can replace those parts and STILL have a shifter that feels like sloppy shit compared to more modern cars... or hell... even compared to my fucking '95 Cummins truck...
    So did you redesign the entire shifter assembly for a tighter feel? Or just content to whine about how a 20 year old luxury/sport car doesn't feel as tight as a comparable female of our species? ;)

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  • Ian F
    replied
    Originally posted by blueapplesoda

    Most people forget to replace the two most important parts when making slop go away; replace 14 (gearshift rod joint), along with 11 (selector rod). most slop goes away. 2, 4, 7 are others you can replace and will help.
    And I'll repeat myself... again... you can replace those parts and STILL have a shifter that feels like sloppy shit compared to more modern cars... or hell... even compared to my fucking '95 Cummins truck...

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  • tbone714
    replied
    Ok! Thanx for all the help. I do believe i know what the problem is. First off, ra-tard that had the car before me, must of either broke his shifter (doubt it) or was trying to make a DIY Short shifter that failed miserably. The diameter of the receiver at the bottom of the shifter arm is about twice as big as the diameter of the shifter rod! Therefore, there's about a quarter inch of play (up/down side/side) I would take a pic, but It's a little embarrassing. #2. The selecter rod was on the wrong side of the assembly before I switched it. #3. the gearshift rod joint, is pretty much toast. So heres my question. Can anybody tell me, if a UUC DSSR would work with a Z4 2.5 or a Z3 1.9? I have a buddy that does CNC, and can fab me up some bushings and ish, or I can go the DSSR/shortshifter route. What do you guys think?
    Last edited by tbone714; 04-08-2011, 07:57 AM.

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  • blueapplesoda
    replied


    Most people forget to replace the two most important parts when making slop go away; replace 14 (gearshift rod joint), along with 11 (selector rod). most slop goes away. 2, 4, 7 are others you can replace and will help.

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  • Aleksey
    replied
    You just got the car? I would drop the tranny and overhaul the whole thing if you are planning on keeping it.

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  • Ian F
    replied
    That bushing is molded into the shifter lever. It's replaced as a whole. I bought the Z3 1.9 arm, which shortens the throw a bit. That said, you may still be unhappy with the amount of play between that bushing and the shift rod (#6). I was fucking pissed...

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  • tbone714
    replied
    Thank you all for your info. Ordered a bushing kit from pelican parts, but i have one question....


    Is there supposed to be a bushing inbetween the bottom of the shifter arm?

    Currently there is nothing. It's just the rod going into the insert with the plastic spacers and curclip, and it moves away like crazy! it seems like that's where all the play is coming from.

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  • Ian F
    replied
    I will warn you that if you're used to the shifter feel of modern cars, then even replacing the bushings and arm may not achieve the desired results - there's simply a lot of play inherent to the design. I replaced every bushing possible and the the arm (Z3 1.9) and still dislike the amount of slop in the mechanism. Next step is to pony up the $$$ for one of the better aftermarket set-ups. But moreso than the money, I'm pissed about having to do it again as it's a rather fiddly task.

    IMHO, before you do ANYTHING, go to a local GTG and ask to try as many shifter set-ups as you can. Then you can make a more educated decision.

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