Diff swap- do I need anything else?

[rammstein]

One other thing- I have a new gasket for the cover, but I found some DIY articles showing them using both the paper gasket and some of that ultra-gray permatex gasketmaker with. Should I just use the paper gasket, or should I run a small bead of the gasket maker on each side too?

Thanks guys- I'm feeling pretty good about doing this now.

[rammstein]

OK cool. I think I will go ahead and just do the diff tonight, and order some remanufactured axles from BMA for like $230 (that's for a pair including shipping). I have so little time, and the changing of CV boots seems like such a PITA, why not just get the whole axle and be done with it? Its not even that much more expensive really, and I get fresh axles too.

[Jafxod]

LOL- no to what? I asked too many questions...

The oil will not pour out when you pull the axles.

[rammstein]

no

LOL- no to what? I asked too many questions...

[bimmerteck]

no

[rammstein]

Well nevermind on NAPA- they don't have any in Florida. Why isn't this something I could do on another day? As in, the only work similar to the diff change and the axles are the 8 allen bolts per side on the diff- that doesn't seem like that big of a deal... or wait... (putting my stupid hat on) if I pull out the axle, does diff oil pour out?

[bimmerteck]

The nuts holding the driveshaft to the diff are most definitely 17mm, always.

Your correct, I couldn't for the life of me figure out why i had a 13mm under the car a few weeks ago though yet I remembered putting it away. Crawled under and looked, seems it was for the CSB mount bolts, forgot I had to put them in at the same time b/c I was also installing my drive shaft.

[rammstein]

I Highly recomend ratchet wrenches If you dont plan on dropping the subframe. I took me an entire night to tigten the 4 main bolts down with just a normal wrench, having to tighten it 15 degrees at a time while using a jack handle on the wrench for enought torque to turn it.

I bought a set last night based on comments like this! Hopefully it will work out now.

As for the cv boots, I am wondering if I am better off just getting new axles? Napa apparently sells rebuilt axles for $140 apiece. The also have 'new' ones for $90, but for some reason I don't trust that. If I just said screw it and bought new axles, changing them should be easy, right? I think I would just need to get a 30MM impact socket to get off that one big bolt and then it just comes off, right?

[Jafxod]

I Highly recomend ratchet wrenches If you dont plan on dropping the subframe. I took me an entire night to tigten the 4 main bolts down with just a normal wrench, having to tighten it 15 degrees at a time while using a jack handle on the wrench for enought torque to turn it.

[FredK]

Yes, a torn CV is bad news. If anything gets in there, it will wear it down very quickly.

IMO using a tap to chase the case threads (M12x1.5) would be a good idea. I think it helps to get the surface rust out of the threads and makes for a smoother installation.

The diff is pretty easy to install, it's just that it's a little heavy. I like to just thread all four top bolts in like halfway at maximum, so they all smoothly turn--that way you really eliminate the risk of crossthreading. If you bolt up like 3 bolts and tighten them, that fourth bolt won't go in. That's Murphy's Law in action right there.

[rammstein]

I'm trying to do it right- all bolts are currently bathing in PB Blaster in preparation for their easy removal this evening. Stay tuned for the part where something breaks.

In other news, the new pumpkin LOOKS nice at least- after scrubbing like 3mm of solid oily scum off, its actually painted a nice black. Plus, its out of an old 5 series, and it has a drain plug on the side. Now I will have 2 drain plugs!

EDIT- question- one of my CV boots is torn. Is this something that needs to be addressed right away?

[MR 325]

The nuts holding the driveshaft to the diff are most definitely 17mm, always.

[bimmerteck]

Apparently they vary in size but are usually 17mm. If my previous history is any indication, they will be triangle-shaped and require a special tool from mexico or something.

No they are an M10 so they wouldn't be 17mm and they are not triangle shaped.

There are
4 x 13mm at the input shaft
12 x 8mm hex at the output shafts
1 x 19mm through the cover
4 x 17mm through the subframe
1 x electrical connector for the speed sensor

the 19mm requires either 2 wrenches or a wrench and a ratchet. ;)

[rammstein]

Apparently they vary in size but are usually 17mm. If my previous history is any indication, they will be triangle-shaped and require a special tool from mexico or something.

[bimmerteck]

What is the 13mm wrench for?

the 4 drive shaft nuts are 13mm IIRC. (you'll know fore sure when you pick up your parts since you ordered them ;) )