Can I drill a hole through trunk floor to remove diff bolt?

[rammstein]

Making the car perfect isn't difficult, but trying to do it piecemeal with used parts of unknown condition will drive you mad.

Trust me- lesson learned. I think used is ok for something like a piece of trim or tail light and whatnot. I think for things like window motors, differentials, etc I'm no longer playing around with used.

[jlevie]

[I think the worst thing I ever decided was "Lets make this car perfect"...

Making the car perfect isn't difficult, but trying to do it piecemeal with used parts of unknown condition will drive you mad.

[rammstein]

UPDATE-

I did not end up needing to drill a hole in my trunk nor dropping the subframe. I lowered the lift close to the ground, then I got the wrench on there, locked my arms, put my feet up onto the lift platform and basically used my quads to apply force, and the bolt came loose.

Today I learned that my legs are much stronger than my forearms, and I guess that gym membership is paying off.

So I put my old diff in and the horrendous noise is gone, so it was definitely a bunk diff. So now all I need is a truly fresh diff and I am in business. Well, except for the rear door lock, window motor(s), fog lights, and newly discovered oil drip...

I think the worst thing I ever decided was "Lets make this car perfect"...

[rammstein]

x2

Why not remove the subframe??

Because I generally do things the wrong way until I cry and then ask here, hang my head in shame, and then learn the right way.


Do you have a source of instructions you'd recommend for removing/dropping the subframe (especially one that also shows the proper torques for re-installing it all)?

[dude8383]

You are going about this the wrong way. Remove the subframe local plates and subframe nuts and drop the subframe a few inches. That gives you room to get a socket and breaker bar on the top mounting bolts.

x2

Why not remove the subframe??

[36brua]

[quote=FLG;3720854]^^Next time have Haoming (wanganstyle) build you one! You wont be disappointed.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287474

^^Well that answers that !!:)

[rammstein]

If you have a loose unit and its what you want to run why not rebuild it then install?
0 mile bearings and lsd internals built to original stock spec units are simple and great handling; not that expensive either.

The pinion bearings/races die first causing that load related terrible noise.

You can diagnose a bad cv without changing the differential!!!

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

I always have assumed that rebuilding the diff would be extremely complicated. Is this not the case?

My original diff, other than no longer providing lockup, was pretty good, but it was just barely starting to whine under load, so I assume that its only a matter of time before it gets worse. Right now, if I have my old diff hooked up and rotate one wheel, the one on the opposite side goes the other way like an open diff would.

[FLG]

^^Next time have Haoming (wanganstyle) build you one! You wont be disappointed.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=287474

You could either put a hole in the trunk floor or do as Jim said and drop the subframe a bit.

[36brua]

If you have a loose unit and its what you want to run why not rebuild it then install?
0 mile bearings and lsd internals built to original stock spec units are simple and great handling; not that expensive either.

The pinion bearings/races die first causing that load related terrible noise.

You can diagnose a bad cv without changing the differential!!!

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

sorry thrd jack here--Wanganstyle do you rebuild diffs ? thnx

[Wanganstyle]

If you have a loose unit and its what you want to run why not rebuild it then install?
0 mile bearings and lsd internals built to original stock spec units are simple and great handling; not that expensive either.

The pinion bearings/races die first causing that load related terrible noise.

You can diagnose a bad cv without changing the differential!!!

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

[rammstein]

Why did you buy 4 garbage differentials? Time is not cheap!!!

Well, I bought two.

The original one I had one on the car the limited slip part stopped working.

So I bought a 'rebuilt' model with 3 clutch disks for some extra lockup. I installed that one. Drove the car and it was insanely loud- the diff was bad from the get-go. So I had to return that one for a refund, and reinstall the old one (which was still working, but just without lockup). So that is already 2 removals.

Then, I bought a supposedly good used one. Problem is, it arrived and I took a full year to bother installing it because with a new baby and whatnot I just didn't deal with it. Now I finally installed that one, and its bad. When I turn the car it rumbles and shudders in comic fashion. So when I pull this one it will be third time. I am putting back in my original one AGAIN just to verify that it is definitely the diff that was bad, because I also changed the axles during this time and I guess its theoretically possible that something else is causing the noise but I seriously doubt it.

So in reality, I've so far only bought 2 bad ones, and I got a refund on the first. I can't even try with the second because I waited way too long to install it and I would never try to get someone to accept a return on a used diff over a year after buying it. Its my own damn fault for waiting so long.

[Wanganstyle]

Why did you buy 4 garbage differentials? Time is not cheap!!!

[jlevie]

You are going about this the wrong way. Remove the subframe local plates and subframe nuts and drop the subframe a few inches. That gives you room to get a socket and breaker bar on the top mounting bolts.

[Van Westervelt]

Or just keep buying bunk diffs and put an access panel in the boot. :)

So long as you seal it back up, shouldnt be a problem. Welding it would be ideal.

[CHIF8008]

sure. just weld it back up later