How to properly install...

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  • E30_fiend
    replied
    Originally posted by ansonivan
    About your original question of preloading the CSB, I always push it forward 1/4" before torquing the 13mm bolts.

    no no no. when you get the drive shaft up, put the bolts throught the CSB holes and thread them in till they are hand tight but still allows movement. then push the CSB as far foreward as yu can on both sides and tighten down the bolts. this allows the CSB to be as straight as possible so the rubber around the bushing doesnt bind while the driveshaft is spinning.

    and about the driveshaft, the u joints can feel knotchy and thats usually nothing a hammer cant deal with. if you feel a catch in the u joint, give it a little tap with a hammer while moving the u joint around. i have free'd up a few boun u joints this way in many e30s and other cars.


    good luck man






    Taylor

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  • ansonivan
    replied
    About your original question of preloading the CSB, I always push it forward 1/4" before torquing the 13mm bolts.

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  • AndrewBird
    replied
    2 or 3 jaw puller works well also.

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  • Money$hit
    replied
    I was in the same bucket, just BFH it til it comes off. No need to mark the driveshaft either, it comes marked from the factory with white dots. I would check that they are there before not marking it though.

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  • TrentW
    replied
    Originally posted by 87e30
    BFH? Huh?

    The U Joint allows smooth movement in one direction but not the other. It's very noticeable.
    Should he be attempting to repair this himself if he doesn't know what a BFH is?

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  • jlevie
    replied
    Don't fret about getting the old bearing off. If you get a reman drive shaft you'll be shipping this one back to them to recover the core charge. And they don't care if all or part of the CSB is still on the drive shaft.

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  • 87e30
    replied
    Rear joint seems to be fine. It's just the one near the middle of the driveshaft.

    Hammer, good call. I tried small hammer plus small screwdriver but figured I was missing something.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    Originally posted by 87e30
    BFH? It moves freely in one direction of the u joint and the other direction is very stiff.

    Big F&$%ing Hammer

    That's the rear U-Joint too, right?

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  • 87e30
    replied
    BFH? Huh?

    The U Joint allows smooth movement in one direction but not the other. It's very noticeable.
    Last edited by 87e30; 01-30-2009, 12:19 PM.

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  • kencopperwheat
    replied
    BFH should get it off with a screwdriver.... or a press.

    How were you able to tell that the shaft was bad?

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  • 87e30
    replied
    I took off my driveshaft and it's bad. Whoopie! Well I'm in the process of finding a reman one. Anyhow, I was trying to get the csb off just for "fun" and I ended up ripping off the rubber completely and the bearing part is still stuck on. I got out the c clip thing and the little cover. I pried to no end with a screw driver. What gives?

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  • 87e30
    replied
    God damnit. Not what I wanted to hear. But I definitely appreciate the information.

    Considering I've already purchased a csb would you recommend holding off on the install and searching for a rebuilt driveshaft. I am not trying to spend a lot of extra money, but it seems that holding off and doing all of this at once will save me money down the stretch.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    I suppose it is possible to have the mount of a CSB fail and the drive shaft not be the cause. But I've never seen that and I know of no BMW tech that has seen it. To know if the u-joints are binding, you have to know what good u-joints feel like and you won't know that unless you've had your hands on a new or freshly rebuilt drive shaft.

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  • 87e30
    replied
    Originally posted by jlevie
    If you are getting vibration or thumping from under the car on acceleration and you find that the rubber mount of the CSB is torn, the cause will be binding u-joints in the drive shaft. A new CSB will cure that, but only for a short time unless the new CSB is accompanied be a new or rebuilt drive shaft.
    That's what I've heard. But I've also heard it's possible that just the csb went bad. When I had the driveshaft out I could flex it along the u joint in both directs. It wasn't super smooth but I wouldn't describe it as difficult. Possibly just the csb is worn? (I know it is, since it's torn)

    Alright, so marks on driveshaft (hopefully I'll see them) once the collar is off. Got it, seems to simplify things. (I was mislead about never taking it apart by a tech then)

    Any input on how to put the csb on though?

    So far I have, keep collar loose. Tigthen to diff. then tighten to output shaft/guibo. Then tighten collar.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    If you are getting vibration or thumping from under the car on acceleration and you find that the rubber mount of the CSB is torn, the cause will be binding u-joints in the drive shaft. A new CSB will cure that, but only for a short time unless the new CSB is accompanied be a new or rebuilt drive shaft.

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