How to properly install...
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no no no. when you get the drive shaft up, put the bolts throught the CSB holes and thread them in till they are hand tight but still allows movement. then push the CSB as far foreward as yu can on both sides and tighten down the bolts. this allows the CSB to be as straight as possible so the rubber around the bushing doesnt bind while the driveshaft is spinning.
and about the driveshaft, the u joints can feel knotchy and thats usually nothing a hammer cant deal with. if you feel a catch in the u joint, give it a little tap with a hammer while moving the u joint around. i have free'd up a few boun u joints this way in many e30s and other cars.
good luck man
Taylor -
About your original question of preloading the CSB, I always push it forward 1/4" before torquing the 13mm bolts.Leave a comment:
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I was in the same bucket, just BFH it til it comes off. No need to mark the driveshaft either, it comes marked from the factory with white dots. I would check that they are there before not marking it though.Leave a comment:
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Don't fret about getting the old bearing off. If you get a reman drive shaft you'll be shipping this one back to them to recover the core charge. And they don't care if all or part of the CSB is still on the drive shaft.Leave a comment:
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Rear joint seems to be fine. It's just the one near the middle of the driveshaft.
Hammer, good call. I tried small hammer plus small screwdriver but figured I was missing something.Leave a comment:
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BFH should get it off with a screwdriver.... or a press.
How were you able to tell that the shaft was bad?Leave a comment:
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I took off my driveshaft and it's bad. Whoopie! Well I'm in the process of finding a reman one. Anyhow, I was trying to get the csb off just for "fun" and I ended up ripping off the rubber completely and the bearing part is still stuck on. I got out the c clip thing and the little cover. I pried to no end with a screw driver. What gives?Leave a comment:
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God damnit. Not what I wanted to hear. But I definitely appreciate the information.
Considering I've already purchased a csb would you recommend holding off on the install and searching for a rebuilt driveshaft. I am not trying to spend a lot of extra money, but it seems that holding off and doing all of this at once will save me money down the stretch.Leave a comment:
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I suppose it is possible to have the mount of a CSB fail and the drive shaft not be the cause. But I've never seen that and I know of no BMW tech that has seen it. To know if the u-joints are binding, you have to know what good u-joints feel like and you won't know that unless you've had your hands on a new or freshly rebuilt drive shaft.Leave a comment:
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That's what I've heard. But I've also heard it's possible that just the csb went bad. When I had the driveshaft out I could flex it along the u joint in both directs. It wasn't super smooth but I wouldn't describe it as difficult. Possibly just the csb is worn? (I know it is, since it's torn)If you are getting vibration or thumping from under the car on acceleration and you find that the rubber mount of the CSB is torn, the cause will be binding u-joints in the drive shaft. A new CSB will cure that, but only for a short time unless the new CSB is accompanied be a new or rebuilt drive shaft.
Alright, so marks on driveshaft (hopefully I'll see them) once the collar is off. Got it, seems to simplify things. (I was mislead about never taking it apart by a tech then)
Any input on how to put the csb on though?
So far I have, keep collar loose. Tigthen to diff. then tighten to output shaft/guibo. Then tighten collar.Leave a comment:
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If you are getting vibration or thumping from under the car on acceleration and you find that the rubber mount of the CSB is torn, the cause will be binding u-joints in the drive shaft. A new CSB will cure that, but only for a short time unless the new CSB is accompanied be a new or rebuilt drive shaft.Leave a comment:

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