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Post-Manual Swap --> Inconsistent Clutch Travel?

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    Post-Manual Swap --> Inconsistent Clutch Travel?

    So I am having this odd occurrence after my manual swap. Although it might not be odd, as this is all quite new to me...
    Basically, the more I drive my car the closer the clutch pedal gets to the floor..

    The other day I noticed that my clutch pedal was resting much lower than my brake pedal, so I decided to pull the clutch pedal all the way upwards with my hand. When I did that, the pedal started resting much higher than where it was 5 seconds ago AND the biting point turns to literally 2mm before the pedal travels all the way to the top resting position...

    What gives? I thought that this type of biting point only occurs when the car's clutch disk is really worn...

    This has happened twice now, where I notice that the clutch pedal is much lower than the brake pedal so I pull the clutch pedal up, and then it completely changes the biting point and where the clutch rests... So the more I drive it the less clutch pedal travel I have...

    I used all new OEM parts (Sachs clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, etc etc)

    Yes, I've already checked:
    -fluid reservoir (level hasn't fluctuated)
    -slave cylinder
    -clutch fork retaining clip
    -pedal assembly (master cylinder, etc.)
    -trans fluid
    -trans brace/mount
    -blinker fluid
    -rear battery tray location (unrelated, but your's is rusty too bro)

    "Time doesn't heal anything... It just teaches us how to live with the pain." - My Cracked Dashboard

    #2
    tl;dr - Clutch pedal rests closer to the floor the more I drive the car. Also biting point is literally at the top. What gives?
    "Time doesn't heal anything... It just teaches us how to live with the pain." - My Cracked Dashboard

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Zambuzan View Post
      tl;dr - Clutch pedal rests closer to the floor the more I drive the car. Also biting point is literally at the top. What gives?
      Wrong bearing (too tall) for the bell housing? (e30 had two different sizes early/late as far as I know) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
        Wrong bearing (too tall) for the bell housing? (e30 had two different sizes early/late as far as I know) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        Pilot bearing? Or throwout?
        Thanks.
        "Time doesn't heal anything... It just teaches us how to live with the pain." - My Cracked Dashboard

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Zambuzan View Post

          Pilot bearing? Or throwout?
          Thanks.
          throwout........pilot is just sitting there and has no effect on the engagement point. Now that I reminded myself of this, all US e30s had shorter 25mm bearing, taller 30mm came on Euro 320i, 323i. Unless you used different flywheel or something

          here is good read anyway http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146241


          Comment


            #6
            OP, take your slave out of the transmission and plunge the rod in numerous times, and you will hear when the "bubbles" stop flowing, releasing all the air in the system.

            Originally posted by zaq123 View Post

            throwout........pilot is just sitting there and has no effect on the engagement point. Now that I reminded myself of this, all US e30s had shorter 25mm bearing, taller 30mm came on Euro 320i, 323i. Unless you used different flywheel or something

            here is good read anyway http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146241

            I have had many an argument over the years about that issue. I have swapped several '88 eta's (DM to single FW) without using the Euro bearing, never had any issues. Hydraulic systems simply don't work like that thread is suggesting, otherwise your brake pedal would sink closer to the floor as the pads wore out. They are measuring the thickness of the FW, but there were actually 3 different FW's that came in m20-powered e30's. There's the early heavy FW with a lot of mass on the back side (facing the engine), then a thinner late one, and the one-year only dual mass. IIRC there's about a 10lb difference between the two single mass, and the heavier one can be machined on the back to match the weight (or exceed) of the lighter one. What I have yet to be seen is the way I personally measured the FW differences, and that was to use the crank/FW mating surface for reference. The extra mass on the back of the FW has nothing to do with clutch operation as it's on the wrong side of the ring gear to mean anything.

            However, I have run into engagement issues when using a disc and pressure plate from 2 different clutch kits. Not all clutch kits are the same dimensionally. There are 7-9mm thick discs and the pressure plate outer spring stack will compensate. Two years ago we had a new driver for the Sebring 14 hour, and he managed to blow TWO clutches during his two driving stints. We had a spare, but then had to ask other racers to purchase parts for the second clutch change. The disk and PP didn't match as a kit and the clutch would release right on the floor. Once we got home and took the car back apart, we compared all the PP's and discs and the answer was obvious.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
              OP, take your slave out of the transmission and plunge the rod in numerous times, and you will hear when the "bubbles" stop flowing, releasing all the air in the system.
              Isn't that the same as just pushing the clutch pedal in? Doesn't the slave just self-bleed?
              Here's what happened when I initially installed everything: pressed the clutch in and out like 5 times and boom, consistent pedal pressure. I didn't even have to pop the bleed screw on the slave.
              "Time doesn't heal anything... It just teaches us how to live with the pain." - My Cracked Dashboard

              Comment


                #8
                No, it usually takes about 100+pumps of the clutch pedal to self bleed. That's why I don't do it that way. In fact, I don't know that I ever even touched a bleeder in any BMW hydraulic clutch, and work on them every day for the last 11yr. However, did develop a leak in my personal car many years ago and was topping off the fluid until I could get my car into an open bay at work. If I forgot and got air, would just top off and self bleed, but it takes forever. You can have a friend pump the clutch pedal and shine a light into the reservoir, and you can physically see the bubbles coming out if the blue cloth braided hose.

                As an alternative, it's so much easier to get under there and remove the 2 13mm nuts, and the Getrag has little squares cast in the housing that makes a good spot to plunge the slave. After pushing it in and out about 10x, your will hear the "squishing" stop, then I do a couple more for good luck. Pop the slave in, and you will have a full pedal and bled clutch immediately.

                ​​
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                Comment

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