M60B40 rough idle/long crank/misfire/bog journey continues!
Tore into the coolant sensors today chasing the long crank/rough idle/misfire I originally posted about. Car was swapped prior to my ownership and have slowly improved upon it.
Here’s what I found when I got to #8 and #10 sensors:
The #8 sensor only had ONE wire running to it (yellow/white shown in pic) and also only had ONE metal prong in the top. The connector had both metal pins still (blue on inside). Isn’t this supposed to be two wires?
The #10 sensor had a white top coolant sensor and green/yellow brown/orange wires (DME)?
So, first, I replaced the #8 one prong with a new #8 oem numbered (535) coolant sensor. Car would barely turn on and actually bogged down during driving to the point of stalling and a loud backfire under the car.
I then put a new #10 sensor in. Car turned on after decent long crank but not as bad. Ran a little bit but bogged down with any power applied. The temp gauge in dash did not register (for first time).
I then put the #8 one prong back in, put a 535 #8 sensor in the #10 spot. Car fired up IMMEDIATELY multiple times. ABS light flashed 6 times. Car ran but bogged again. Idle perfect. Temp gauge in dash bounced around like crazy and never held steady.
I have no clue what’s going on. Also, replaced TPS with new sensor before all of this (if you saw the original post).
Other items done to remedy the misfire/bog/stall:
- cleaned ICV
- new ICV grommet
- new cone air filter
- new plugs
- new coils
- new valve cover gaskets
- new fuel pump
- new fuel filter
- working/Tested DME
- cleaned MAF, tested fine
- new TPS
- re-ran fuel lines away from headers (thinking vaper lock)
(ONE prong sensor not in pics. Black top. “Made in Italy).
Tore into the coolant sensors today chasing the long crank/rough idle/misfire I originally posted about. Car was swapped prior to my ownership and have slowly improved upon it.
Here’s what I found when I got to #8 and #10 sensors:
The #8 sensor only had ONE wire running to it (yellow/white shown in pic) and also only had ONE metal prong in the top. The connector had both metal pins still (blue on inside). Isn’t this supposed to be two wires?
The #10 sensor had a white top coolant sensor and green/yellow brown/orange wires (DME)?
So, first, I replaced the #8 one prong with a new #8 oem numbered (535) coolant sensor. Car would barely turn on and actually bogged down during driving to the point of stalling and a loud backfire under the car.
I then put a new #10 sensor in. Car turned on after decent long crank but not as bad. Ran a little bit but bogged down with any power applied. The temp gauge in dash did not register (for first time).
I then put the #8 one prong back in, put a 535 #8 sensor in the #10 spot. Car fired up IMMEDIATELY multiple times. ABS light flashed 6 times. Car ran but bogged again. Idle perfect. Temp gauge in dash bounced around like crazy and never held steady.
I have no clue what’s going on. Also, replaced TPS with new sensor before all of this (if you saw the original post).
Other items done to remedy the misfire/bog/stall:
- cleaned ICV
- new ICV grommet
- new cone air filter
- new plugs
- new coils
- new valve cover gaskets
- new fuel pump
- new fuel filter
- working/Tested DME
- cleaned MAF, tested fine
- new TPS
- re-ran fuel lines away from headers (thinking vaper lock)
(ONE prong sensor not in pics. Black top. “Made in Italy).
Attached Files