My BMW V8 engine build thread

[The Dark Side of Will]

The part that scares me is that the M62 block clearly has 4.4 stamped on it, so if it happens that they catch it they'll know its not a 4.0 OBD1 engine....

Is that casting mark somewhere that's visible under the car?

[iamsam]

^^ holy balls. Over and over I find myself promising myself that I will never ever ever ever ever move to CA.

That said, I am super excited to see progress on your M60B44 build.

[Jean]

That's a long route, but for sure gives the best comparison between m60b40 and m60b44.

Is the BAR (some kind of emission tests?) really so strict there that they dig up the engine block code (for which you actually need to dismantle complete intake manifold).

I've gone through this process once before with my m30b35 swap and it wasn't bad at all.

As mentioned above, whatever engine you install it must contain all of the intake and exhaust components (up to and including the cat) as how it was on the donor vehicle.

They won't take the engine apart, but they do put the car on the rack and look at everything with a flash light / mirror. Things like wiring/ type and location of cat. converter, o2 sensors, intake box, evap system, air filter(s). The part that scares me is that the M62 block clearly has 4.4 stamped on it, so if it happens that they catch it they'll know its not a 4.0 OBD1 engine....

[The Dark Side of Will]

In California, for an engine-swapped car, sometimes.

The California law says that any newer engine can be swapped into any older car as long as all the emissions equipment originally used with the new engine is installed in the recipient car.
The identity of the new engine is thus central to the ability of the BAR referee to determine what emissions equipment is required to be installed.

That being said, as long as EVERYTHING is correct for the 4.0, it is highly unlikely that he will require you to disassemble anything in order to verify that the engine is what you say it is. So if it has 4.0 DME, no trouble codes and passes the sniffer for an OBDI 540 or 740, then you can probably sneak a 4.4 shortblock through.

Take that with a grain of salt, as I don't live in CA and have not tried to push a swapped car through the CA process.

[Jonsku]

Alright, it's time to get this shit going. I just purchased two more m60b40 heads from a 135k 540i, should arrive late next week.

Ordering all the gasket sets and rod bearings next to start putting the m60b40 together first to get it through BAR...as I think there is a big risk trying that with m62b44 block since it's got a 4.4L stamped right on it etc.

Spare heads will go on the m62 block as a spare motor, so essentially I'll end up with two and will dyno the m60b40 first and then do the same with the m62+m40 heads once I catch up on what DME chip to use to get the most out of it.

E30 Booster/master is coming out next as well, for the garagistic boosterless setup that I'll do a full write up on as well.

That's a long route, but for sure gives the best comparison between m60b40 and m60b44.

Is the BAR (some kind of emission tests?) really so strict there that they dig up the engine block code (for which you actually need to dismantle complete intake manifold).

[Jean]

Lorin - lul!

[LJ851]

...as I think there is a big risk trying that with m62b44 block since it's got a 4.4L stamped right on it etc.

Perhaps Japandrew73 could help you out with this problem. :giggle:

[Jean]

Alright, it's time to get this shit going. I just purchased two more m60b40 heads from a 135k 540i, should arrive late next week.

Ordering all the gasket sets and rod bearings next to start putting the m60b40 together first to get it through BAR...as I think there is a big risk trying that with m62b44 block since it's got a 4.4L stamped right on it etc.

Spare heads will go on the m62 block as a spare motor, so essentially I'll end up with two and will dyno the m60b40 first and then do the same with the m62+m40 heads once I catch up on what DME chip to use to get the most out of it.

E30 Booster/master is coming out next as well, for the garagistic boosterless setup that I'll do a full write up on as well.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Interesting.

I am curious about building an M60B44 in an E30... but I'm curious about a lot of other things as well.

[CoreyZ]

While the end result is what you describe, the above is not mechanically possible.

Hence the requirement for the acid etch.

http://www.sunnen.com/newsdetails.aspx?newsid=11

"The final exposure step requires a new specially developed, elastomer-bond abrasive (XM27), using light honing force. For the exposure step, we recommend tooling with the greatest abrasive surface contact area. This step is based on time, typically 1-1 ½ minutes for 19 µin. (0.5 µm) exposure height. Longer cycle times are not harmful, because the process is somewhat self limiting. It is absolutely critical that honing force or pressure be kept as low as possibly, while still maintaining tool stability. Surfaces shown in the accompanying illustrations were honed with less than 5 lb/in2 pressure.

The elastomer based -stone- [Figure 9] is purpose-designed to overcome three limitations of rigid abrasive in the silicon exposure process. First, the elastomer serves as a cushion, deforming to allow individual abrasive particles to literally bounce over the silicon particles, while still being rigid enough to cut the surrounding aluminum. Second, the elastomer dampens or limits the overall force applied to the abrasive, making the process very forgiving of variations in pressure from the honing machine feed system. The honing tool diametrical expansion does not have to exactly match the rate at which the cylinder is increasing in diameter from stock removal. Third, the elastomer conforms to any taper or out of roundness in the cylinder, allowing it to remove very small (0.00002"/0.5µm per side) amounts of material, uniformly throughout the cylinder. With rigid abrasive, any out of roundness in the bore would result in abrasive cutting pressure variations as the honing tool rotated."

[///Mgineer]

Sub'd

[The Dark Side of Will]

You need to use something that will abrade the aluminum surface, but leave the silicon alone.

While the end result is what you describe, the above is not mechanically possible.

Hence the requirement for the acid etch.

[CoreyZ]

My understanding of Alusil is this -

You end up with particles of silicon embedded in a aluminum matrix. The goal when honing Alusil is to make the hard silicon surface proud in the cylinder bores. You need to use something that will abrade the aluminum surface, but leave the silicon alone. The idea is to have these silicon particles protrude from the aluminum cylinder wall slightly and form the bearing surface for the piston rings.

[iamsam]

Use whatever tool gets the job done.

naturally, but what tools are those specifically?

[The Dark Side of Will]

From what I understand there are special honing stones and a special rubbing compound you can use to rehone alusil bores.

I don't know how the initial specs for the surface roughness of the bore finish prior to the acid wash are different than for an iron/steel bore.

Depending on the hardness of the parent material, different abrasives might be required.
For example, the Cadillac Northstar uses centrifugally cast grey iron bore liners. These are much harder than the nodular iron blocks of traditional Chevy engines. The silicon carbide stones used to hone the bores of Chevies just polish Northstar bores. Northstars need to be honed with aluminum oxide stones.
I'm not sure of the specifics, but I do know of a shop that has done that in the past.

However, the ultimate goal of honing is to produce a bore surface with specific roughness characteristics. Use whatever tool gets the job done.