HELP! Socal for m60/m62 hybrid engine runs like ****

[bemmerguy714]

It can absolutely act differently under load. Do you have your VSS connected to the DME? Might have something to do with that fuel cut feeling.

I believe so. I have pin 14 from the c101 connected to pin 14 from the m60 harness. Wire is black and white for the vehicle speed sensor. My speedometer works. Is this what you mean? I have read others taking it from the cruise control but never understood the concept when it has pin 14 to do the same function. Or am i missing something?


Btw the fuel cut feeling in my opinion is too violent to be a fuel cut. But I will figure out a way to read the fuel underload. If this is all because a a dirty fuel filter I would be amazed!

[dirty30]

Yes sir I have. 50 psi. Goes up a tad under throttle. However that is a gauge that can only be seen in the engine bay so thats under no load. I do not think it would act differently with load but I could be wrong. Fuel filter is about 8 monthes old as well as the gas on initial first start up. Ive put fresh gas in it now.

It can absolutely act differently under load. Do you have your VSS connected to the DME? Might have something to do with that fuel cut feeling.

[bemmerguy714]

I had similar problems on the B35 I swapped in my Bavaria. It turns out that I had a dirty fuel tank full of rust and crap that clogged the filters/pumps. I had the tank cleaned and lined and added a pre-filter between the low and HP pumps. It worked a lot better.

You said that you verified fuel pressure, correct?

Yes sir I have. 50 psi. Goes up a tad under throttle. However that is a gauge that can only be seen in the engine bay so thats under no load. I do not think it would act differently with load but I could be wrong. Fuel filter is about 8 monthes old as well as the gas on initial first start up. Ive put fresh gas in it now.

[senorcarey]

I had similar problems on the B35 I swapped in my Bavaria. It turns out that I had a dirty fuel tank full of rust and crap that clogged the filters/pumps. I had the tank cleaned and lined and added a pre-filter between the low and HP pumps. It worked a lot better.

You said that you verified fuel pressure, correct?

[bemmerguy714]

I started completely from scratch. It was off by maybe 10 degrees? After I put it together hwever it ran much better. Power was there (well most of it). So that was def one of the problems. I uploaded the 4.4 tune to the dme as well.

However after putting it togther it does the following:

1 Still takes a while to start.

2 Falls flat on its face under heavy throttle (only in first gear)

3 In the upper rpm range there is a violent tug (almost like a fuel cut but its very harsh and throws me forward when it happens).

4 Seems to idle fine when warm. However when up to temp it runs bad and seems to be misfiring heavily as it did the first time.



I still need someone with an m62 cam position sensor to verify the placement is correct. I have had it Jamie Cs placement as well as replicating the m60 placement. The m60 placement is after the trigger at TDC, Jamie Cs is before the trigger at TDC. Car cam position sensor trigger is currently set as an m60 (tdc trigger is after the sensor). Any ideas? Can someone post pictures?

[senorcarey]

^This. I'd baseline and start at making sure that timing is correct.

[Jean]

So what did you do with timing this time

[bemmerguy714]

As far as tuning, why not something like a W.A.R. Chip? Or DUDMD on bimmerforums who can do custom tuning on those chips.

Ended up going with the war chip. Installing it tonight. I ended up doing the timing all over again. It has alot more power. But still misfires randomly. Still takes along time to fire up. Pressing the gas seems to help get it started. I switched every gasket in the intake so I do not think its a intake leak.

[GnarMachine]

As far as tuning, why not something like a W.A.R. Chip? Or DUDMD on bimmerforums who can do custom tuning on those chips.

[bemmerguy714]

Before getting new parts/chip/tune etc...you should measure/verify that the sensor is in the right spot. If it's not, its just as bad having the engine timing wrong...

You are right. Just getting desperate i suppose. Checked fuel pressure today. 49psi. Goes up when I rev. So FPR seems to check out. Leaning towards the spark. When the cam position sensor is unplugged while its running absolutly nothing changes. Yet when the sensor is check, it checks out. So Its still the position i believe. So confused about where the trigger should end up at this point. Got all kinds of conflicting information. My placement matches Jamie Cs whos car is running with no issues. Ill take pictures tonight.

[Jean]

Before getting new parts/chip/tune etc...you should measure/verify that the sensor is in the right spot. If it's not, its just as bad having the engine timing wrong...

[bemmerguy714]

this is quite a serious issue:

most engines can run on crank position sensor alone; the M20's pretty much do. (distributor for spark that is mechanically fixed and perfect when timed perfect.).
can you post some photos of your crank and cam position sensor setup? Have you tried reading the wave created with an osciloscope from cam/crank sensor?? Perhaps the signal is not strong enough do to gapping, or is off a bit, or they are not in sync.

I have driven a local car (e34) fitted with M62b44 complete untouched longmotor and full M60b30 (3.0Liter V8) electronics, it fired up perfect, had enough torque with 6mt+3.15 LSD to do choku dori's down the road in gear 1/2. obviously was not

Alright so I got a little update.

Went to the dealer, got brand new ccv, throttle body gasket, ccv gasket, O rings for the pipe under the intake that goes to the oil separator, installed everything on the m62 intake and installed it on the car. Still takes wayyyy to long to start. Eventually starts. Although it runs a bit better. It still sputters heavily in the lower RPM range and under heavy throttle.

I will try to get a picture of where the trigger lines up with the crank position sensor. Im really starting to think its in the wrong spot. Ive done everything else I can think of. All the sensors have been checked and they all checkout. Wouldnt it make sense that at top dead center the trigger would be exactly where the cam postion sensor would be? Not infront of it like it is on mine? Does anyone have an m60 they can put to tdc and remove the cps and look inside to see where exactly the trigger ends up? Why else would the car take so long to start?

Just for the hell of it, im going to try and find a way to read the fuel pressure just to rule it out. If that checks out. Im going to need to tow the car to someone who can read the CEL codes because I dont have a reader. (for the record, the check engine light blinks when the car is cranking over, dont know if that means anything).

Chip is on its way. That might help once i burn the factory 4.4 tune on the dme.

[Wanganstyle]

The crank is lined up to the OT mark (tdc). And the cams both sides were aligned used the blocks. Is there something Im missing besides that? Only thing that leaves to be off is misplacment of the modified m62 camshaft trigger. I hope someone can verify tdc placment for me. Im compared it to members of bimmerforums.

this is quite a serious issue:

most engines can run on crank position sensor alone; the M20's pretty much do. (distributor for spark that is mechanically fixed and perfect when timed perfect.).
can you post some photos of your crank and cam position sensor setup? Have you tried reading the wave created with an osciloscope from cam/crank sensor?? Perhaps the signal is not strong enough do to gapping, or is off a bit, or they are not in sync.

I have driven a local car (e34) fitted with M62b44 complete untouched longmotor and full M60b30 (3.0Liter V8) electronics, it fired up perfect, had enough torque with 6mt+3.15 LSD to do choku dori's down the road in gear 1/2. obviously was not

[bemmerguy714]

How can you then be sure that the timing is right .. ?

The crank is lined up to the OT mark (tdc). And the cams both sides were aligned used the blocks. Is there something Im missing besides that? Only thing that leaves to be off is misplacment of the modified m62 camshaft trigger. I hope someone can verify tdc placment for me. Im compared it to members of bimmerforums.

[Jonsku]

Wish I could. I had to rely on cam blocks and dummy screw only. I cannot use the crank pin because the jb racing flywheel on the car does not have the tdc hole.

How can you then be sure that the timing is right .. ?