M60 swap. Starts but idles on redline

[Vtec?lol]

Where was your bad ground? AFAIK, there is only one external harness ground connector, which is the ring terminal near the DME connector.

I noticed the ohm reading on my ICV almost doubles as the engine gets hot, but goes back down to spec when cold. But it still seems to work because the the resistance between the two coils stays equal.

I ask because I'm still battling issues with mine.

I never got a chance to get the motor hot as I'm still working on the core support and radiator. I wouldn't know if the resistance changes. I'll try it out though.

As far as ground, there's a few that go to that ring terminal. My wires ended up pinched just a few inches from the terminal under the rubber. I swiched the harness with another one I had sent to me for back up. Good thing I had it. I'll assume I pinched them puting the motor in.

[JGood]

Yes. It was a combination of the bad ICV and the bad ground in the harness.
The ground caused the ICV to develop it's own brain. this ruined the ICV. I ohm'd it and the numbers kept climbing.
switched it with another and it did the same thing which led me to find the bad ground.

Where was your bad ground? AFAIK, there is only one external harness ground connector, which is the ring terminal near the DME connector.

I noticed the ohm reading on my ICV almost doubles as the engine gets hot, but goes back down to spec when cold. But it still seems to work because the the resistance between the two coils stays equal.

I ask because I'm still battling issues with mine.

[Vtec?lol]

so was it then the icv?

Yes. It was a combination of the bad ICV and the bad ground in the harness.
The ground caused the ICV to develop it's own brain. this ruined the ICV. I ohm'd it and the numbers kept climbing.
switched it with another and it did the same thing which led me to find the bad ground.

Hell yeah!

HYFR!!!
Can't wait!

[JGood]

Hell yeah!

[vert_this]

so was it then the icv?

[Vtec?lol]

I owe it all to gluck and Jgood. Thank you so much guys!!!!!

[Vtec?lol]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pSmYaNlKUI

[glucklich21]

Matt this sounds suspiciously like the S50 at one point. A bad ICV and a bad ground were the sources of my woes. Now that's all fixed, the S50 purrs and idles perfectly.

[JGood]

I'm still shooting in the dark as I haven't got a hold on a ohmeter/multimeter.

HOWEVER
I put some different gas in and put another working Crank sensor on it. It cranks right up but its at 3k rpm. It doesn't idle down or anything. This is leading me to believe the ICV is malfunct. If it wwere a vacuum leak and the ICV worked it would have at least surged up and down but as soon as I turn the ke it starts at 3000 rpm. throttle checked and its normal as well.

I'd agree. I have an extra ICV. PM me if you want it.

But I'd get an ohmmeter on it first. They are like $10 for a cheap one.

[Vtec?lol]

I'm still shooting in the dark as I haven't got a hold on a ohmeter/multimeter.

HOWEVER
I put some different gas in and put another working Crank sensor on it. It cranks right up but its at 3k rpm. It doesn't idle down or anything. This is leading me to believe the ICV is malfunct. If it wwere a vacuum leak and the ICV worked it would have at least surged up and down but as soon as I turn the ke it starts at 3000 rpm. throttle checked and its normal as well.

[JGood]

The plug looks abused and is showing wiring insulation.

That's probably your problem. If it looks like that, I'd replace it regardless, as it probably doesn't have much life left, and will leave you sit when it fails.

[Vtec?lol]

Before throwing parts at it, get a multimeter.

Check resistance on the crank sensor.

You're right, unplugging the cam sensor will make no difference. On m60's, it just goes into wasted spark mode.

Yes, grey plug is for the ICV.

The plug with the bitch clip is for the ASC. The plug with the spring clip is for the TPS.

I'd start testing things before throwing parts at it.

Thanks again for clearing that up.

I'll have to get a hold of a fluke and a Bentley today. I've been using the cheap meters from radio shack and have realiZed I go through at least one a year

I'm definitely going to check the crank sensor. The plug looks abused and is showing wiring insulation.

I'll also need to check my fuel pressure.

[JGood]

Before throwing parts at it, get a multimeter.

Check resistance on the crank sensor.

You're right, unplugging the cam sensor will make no difference. On m60's, it just goes into wasted spark mode.

Yes, grey plug is for the ICV.

The plug with the bitch clip is for the ASC. The plug with the spring clip is for the TPS.

I'd start testing things before throwing parts at it.

[Vtec?lol]

Couldn't get a hold of another multimeter

I've been messing with it and here are the new symptoms,

When I try to start it I get a back fire or a put like a mis timing.
Very hesitant to start.
When I did get it to crank over it sounds like a big block cammed motor with a bad idle or as if all cylinders aren't firing
Then it cuts out after 2 seconds.

I unplugged the cam sensor and no difference. It's as if it doesn't care if the cam sensor is there

I unplugged the icv no start

I unplugged the maf, more popping.

Tried switching the wires around between the tps and the tps for the asc system. No difference.

If my memory serves me correct, the greyish plug goes to the icv.

I'm getting pissed. Not sure what else to do.

I'm assuming its the 404 DME as I had none of these issues with the 484 factory ecu with ews

I'm lost and very saddened.

Anybody have a spare ecu?

[Vtec?lol]

You also need to actually do a resistance check across the 2 coils. I think each outer pin should be 20 ohms to the center pin, and the outer pins should be 40 ohms to each other. But check the Bentley.

If the coils are off balance, it will still open/close, just not properly.

And check for voltage at the connector, etc...

Thats great info. Just checked my multimeter and the it's dead. I'll need to pick up another multimeter and then check.