I've been running a swapped 92 1uz in a truck, with R154. I went with aftermarket ECU, as the stock toyota one had several issue's. The capacitors are known to go bad, and for the money to fix, a programmable ECU was the better choice for me.
I've gone the Megasquirt route, which also has an add-on controller for automatic transmissions. Just a side note, if you weren't aware.
There is an Australian company that makes supercharger manifolds. A bit spendy, but come with a history of working.
I'm trying to sell an E30 that I have right now, but if doesn't sell, then I'll be taking it back to Florida, and putting that 1UZ in it. Turbos probably. I'd like the supercharger for a few different reasons, but packaging is just more then I want to get into. I'll be interested to see your results.
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Originally posted by thedivision View PostWith a little research, I found that GM bought the rights to the R154 design from Aisin. They produced two variants - one for the Colorado/Canyon/H3 (MA5) and one for Solstice/Sky (AR5):
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Originally posted by thedivision View PostI plan on doing a similar conversion. I purchased JDM 1UZ VVTi, similar to yours. I had an R154, but decided that I didn't want to risk using a 20-something year old transmission that was most likely abused. With a little research, I found that GM bought the rights to the R154 design from Aisin. They produced two variants - one for the Colorado/Canyon/H3 (MA5) and one for Solstice/Sky (AR5):
Lately, I've been really thinking about the M-DCT. All the electronics are built in to it. You just have to tell it the shift mode. The stock BMW ECU does that bit after you fiddle with the shifter controls. I was planning on making something to send the proper signals using an atmel microcontroller.
The gearing differs a bit form the R154 and triple-cone synchronizers are used on 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. The Colorado box has the shifter too far forward and the Solstice has it too far back. The Colorado box uses a regular GM 27-spline slip-yoke whereas the Solstice uses a funky flange. The input shaft are spline for a GM clutch. The input shaft length also varies a bit, however, this is pretty immaterial.
I went with the Colorado box seeing as how extending the shifter is not too big of a deal and any old one-piece driveshaft from the junkyard will work (coupled with the JTR flange for the diff), utilizing readily available and replacable 1310 u-joints. Not to mention they're super cheap at any junkyard.
Another good thing about the MA5/AR5 is you can bolt a GM hydraulic throwout bearing directly to the input shaft retainer - no need for a custom adapter. To mate the transmission to the 1UZ bellhousing, I bought a 1UZ-R154 .cad file online and plan on taking it to a machine shop. I'll be purchasing a toyotav8.com flywheel.
I also considered the Nissan 6-speed, but it puts the shifter way too far back and I didn't see an easy way of modifying it.
Are you planning on using the stock ECU for the time being? If so, you will need a matched key (matched to the ECU), ignition coil ring, and transponder to bypass the immobilizer system, otherwise the motor won't start. Alternatively, you can pay someone to disable the immobilizer, but it's cheaper to gather those parts.
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I plan on doing a similar conversion. I purchased JDM 1UZ VVTi, similar to yours. I had an R154, but decided that I didn't want to risk using a 20-something year old transmission that was most likely abused. With a little research, I found that GM bought the rights to the R154 design from Aisin. They produced two variants - one for the Colorado/Canyon/H3 (MA5) and one for Solstice/Sky (AR5):
MA5
2004 to 2008– Chevrolet Colorado
2004 to 2008– GMC Canyon
2007– Hummer H3
Gearing:
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.75 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.73 3.67
2006 to 2010– Pontiac Solstice
2007 to 2010– Saturn Sky
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.75 2.26 1.51 1.00 0.73 3.67
I went with the Colorado box seeing as how extending the shifter is not too big of a deal and any old one-piece driveshaft from the junkyard will work (coupled with the JTR flange for the diff), utilizing readily available and replacable 1310 u-joints. Not to mention they're super cheap at any junkyard.
Another good thing about the MA5/AR5 is you can bolt a GM hydraulic throwout bearing directly to the input shaft retainer - no need for a custom adapter. To mate the transmission to the 1UZ bellhousing, I bought a 1UZ-R154 .cad file online and plan on taking it to a machine shop. I'll be purchasing a toyotav8.com flywheel.
I also considered the Nissan 6-speed, but it puts the shifter way too far back and I didn't see an easy way of modifying it.
Are you planning on using the stock ECU for the time being? If so, you will need a matched key (matched to the ECU), ignition coil ring, and transponder to bypass the immobilizer system, otherwise the motor won't start. Alternatively, you can pay someone to disable the immobilizer, but it's cheaper to gather those parts.
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Here a good example of how high a normal setup would be with the IC under the SC.
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Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View PostNot sure what's up with 6000 RPM, but I'm pretty sure the SS Camaros shift higher than that stock, with this transmission.
It was developed for use in trucks as well as cars... that's why the GVW rating is so high.
For any of those parameters, that's not the max the unit can do... it's just the highest values at which GM has run their validation test. Those numbers may not even be the highest values at which the unit would still pass the validation test. Even if it's run beyond those numbers, it'll still have a good long service life, because the validation tests are meant to be sure the unit will last 100K miles at that level, so that GM can put a warranty on it.
I'm going to hold off on the CD009 until I can find some more pricing & availability on this monster. Thanks for the heads-up on this transmission.
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More or less. I'm certainly using it to draw ideas from. I saw the rad pipe, and thought it might help make some room for the SC. It's too cluttered right there where the pully would be. I'm hooked on the Jag pics because of the intercooler. The main aspect of it will be that it'll help keep the overall height lower (hopefully), but most likely will help reduce the amount of fab work, or eliminate one or two complex pieces.
What I mean is instead of trying to find the proper intercooler and fit it in a fab'd manifold, which uses cut offs from the stock one, under the SC, all I have to worry about is welding up the runnings to a manifold. The SC should sit lower because of this, I believe the added height of the intercooler would be less than traditional intake->IC->SC sandwich.
I will try my best to get a hold of one.
Though, thinking about it while looking at the pic, Whipple designed the SC case to shed a bit of heat, as it would be sitting at the top of the engine bay. The SC sits under all that stuff in the Jag pics, and I have no idea whether the Jag's SC was water cooled. Would I be subjecting the whipple to heat levels that would compromise its lifetime?
It's something I have to look in to.Last edited by enildeR; 05-30-2014, 12:08 PM.
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Originally posted by enildeR View PostThen take a look at this pic:
See that coolant pipe next the the SC pully? Planning on using that for the thermostat and put a modified plate on the waterpump housing. That smaller hose that goes off to the right and is under the bigger coolant hose goes to the TB, and can be removed without worry. Much like deleting all the bullshit under the M42 intake manifold. So there is a good amount of room, even if I don't move the engine back as far as I can.
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Originally posted by enildeR View Posthttp://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-...0e-here-2.html
The gearbox torque is hi, but I'm not sure why that is listed and several engine torque specs.
Although, the maximum shift speed is listed as 6000 rpm. :(
Stock redline is above that, and I was planning on bringing that up to 7500 (at least for testing to see how it performs). Still, even if I stuck to stock, that would suck. Well, with the SC, it wouldn't but no SC... Hearing a V8 rev to 7500-8k is priceless.
But I really like the OD ratio. That's pretty fucking low. The fact it can move a vehicle that is 15,000 lbs is insane.
Def will look in to it more tomorrow or later this week. Nothing on ebay. Sounds like they'll be hard to get a hold of.
It was developed for use in trucks as well as cars... that's why the GVW rating is so high.
For any of those parameters, that's not the max the unit can do... it's just the highest values at which GM has run their validation test. Those numbers may not even be the highest values at which the unit would still pass the validation test. Even if it's run beyond those numbers, it'll still have a good long service life, because the validation tests are meant to be sure the unit will last 100K miles at that level, so that GM can put a warranty on it.
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... dullrot? for real? good luck with the swap man, you're gonna need it.
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Automatic Transmission - 6l90e ....... Is Here....... - For release: Jan. 14, 2008, 12:01 a.m. EST ALL-NEW CTS-V TARGETS 550 SUPERCHARGED HORSEPOWER WITH CADILLAC?S SIGNATURE REFINEMENT DETROIT ? The all-new, 2009 Cadillac CTS-V blends exceptional performance with uncompromising refinement and its unique, 6.2L...
The gearbox torque is hi, but I'm not sure why that is listed and several engine torque specs.
Although, the maximum shift speed is listed as 6000 rpm. :(
Stock redline is above that, and I was planning on bringing that up to 7500 (at least for testing to see how it performs). Still, even if I stuck to stock, that would suck. Well, with the SC, it wouldn't but no SC... Hearing a V8 rev to 7500-8k is priceless.
But I really like the OD ratio. That's pretty fucking low. The fact it can move a vehicle that is 15,000 lbs is insane.
Def will look in to it more tomorrow or later this week. Nothing on ebay. Sounds like they'll be hard to get a hold of.
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Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View PostThe engine bolt pattern is the same.
Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View PostYou may want to look into the 6L90E automatic used in the SS Camaros. It shifts quickly, can be controlled electronically and is stronger than the TR6060 by a good margin, apparently.
Inconceivable.
Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View PostKeep gearing in mind. With a lot of power in an E30, you're going to be looking for taller overall gears. A trans with a .81 top gear would be better with a rear gear in the mid 2's, while a T56 of TR6060 are going to work better with FD in the mid/low 3's. The mid-3's gears are much easier to get for BMW diffs.
Thoughts of diffs running through my mind.
THINKING ABOUT THEM DIFFS.
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Originally posted by jalopi View PostYep, plenty of room for a supercharger pulley in the car the engine was designed for... not so much with our short ass, narrow ass engine bays.
But remember that the belt is right there under the thermostat housing. That's about where the SC's pully is going to be. Take a look at the pic I put in here that was taken at night with the intake off. That coolant stuff is going to be removed.
Then take a look at this pic:
See that coolant pipe next the the SC pully? Planning on using that for the thermostat and put a modified plate on the waterpump housing. That smaller hose that goes off to the right and is under the bigger coolant hose goes to the TB, and can be removed without worry. Much like deleting all the bullshit under the M42 intake manifold. So there is a good amount of room, even if I don't move the engine back as far as I can.
Originally posted by dullrot View PostCouldn't find a better pic of a 1uz in an e30 and I can't find the 1uz dimensions with a quick google search so this'll have to do.
Originally posted by dullrot View PostI'm not saying it won't work, but the pulley will most likely be very, very close to that skinny radiator. If I went forced induction I'd definitely want a thicker radiator than that.
But this all is just me drawing a sketch on paper. Everything has to go in and work. After that, I'll have more time to figure out if I can actually adapt that coolant "bar"? from the jag or not and actually spent time making custom coolant fittings.
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Originally posted by enildeR View PostYeah, I was doing a bit more researching. T56 is pretty good, but they'll shit themselves, too, after a certain point.
Here's a pretty good writeup about the failings of the T56.
It's a good article to understand what would need to be upgraded on other gearboxes to handle a bit more power. Triple cone synchros, bigger bearings.
Luckily, there's a TR6060 and the T56 Magnum, which has the 6060 internals in the T56 case. There's an adapter for the T56, but I'm not entirely sure if the Bellhousing is diff on the TR6060. The Magnum is the same cost of a R154 rebuild, but you don't have to source a R154, so it's actually cheaper. I believe the T56 Magnum would win out against the R154 in how much power it could handle.
I'm actually leaning towards a 350z CD009 gearbox right now. Z1motorsports sells factory ones for 1699, and the new ones fixed the sychro problems. Friend that has a TT 350z that is putting down over 600rwhp has one and hasn't had a problem. The adapter is cheap. Just have to worry about the clutch components.
As for the pully... Where do you think it's not going to have room? I've seen some pics of a SC'd 1UZ. There should be plenty of room, tho most of those pics have either the 1st or 2nd gen 1UZ, where as the VVTi is a lil different in the front. Plenty of info on the 1UZ in general and about supercharging it here:
http://planetsoarer.com/indexfull.html (Soarer = SC400)
Also saw on that site that Jaguar made a badass dual intercooler supercharger intake manifold. Might Look in to sourcing one.
The T56 has a front plate that bolts to the main case and a shallow bellhousing that bolts to the front plate.
The TR6060 has the bellhousing and front plate integrated.
The engine bolt pattern is the same.
You may want to look into the 6L90E automatic used in the SS Camaros. It shifts quickly, can be controlled electronically and is stronger than the TR6060 by a good margin, apparently.
Keep gearing in mind. With a lot of power in an E30, you're going to be looking for taller overall gears. A trans with a .81 top gear would be better with a rear gear in the mid 2's, while a T56 of TR6060 are going to work better with FD in the mid/low 3's. The mid-3's gears are much easier to get for BMW diffs.
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