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My new m62! bringing this thread back from the grave
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Originally posted by MonkeyMadness View PostYes! that's the setup I have on my car now!
it's not hard to convert..
yes.......
Not a clue.. sorry
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Originally posted by dougie30 View PostOk so some slow updates, i found a five speed zf310 transmission for sale. I drove up to NH last week and the guy sold me the trans and gave me the engine for an extra 50$ ;D
The first question i have is can i use the m60b30 wiring on my m62 for the obd1 conversion?
it's not hard to convert..
Originally posted by dougie30 View PostSecond question is will the b30 clutch kit and fly wheel work with the b44 and zf310 setup?
Originally posted by dougie30 View PostThird question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this? or can i pull it out the front?
any insight helps! I will re-search in the mean time.
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Ok so some slow updates, i found a five speed zf310 transmission for sale. I drove up to NH last week and the guy sold me the trans and gave me the engine for an extra 50$ ;D
The first question i have is can i use the m60b30 wiring on my m62 for the obd1 conversion?
Second question is will the b30 clutch kit and fly wheel work with the b44 and zf310 setup?
Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this? or can i pull it out the front?
any insight helps! I will re-search in the mean time.
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Originally posted by dougie30 View PostProgress is slow right now, im doing the chains and guides because i have heard to many horror stories about the m62 guides falling apart.
@monkeymadness i plan on tapping holes for a m20 crank sensor bracket and shaving it down a bit so i can put it where i want and not have to worry about welding the aluminium. someone on here has done it thats where i got the idea.
So now i need to order the chains gaskets and guides, and the tools to set the engine at tdc. Its going to take a while but i juat got a new job so hopefully the 💵💵 will speed things up a bit
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
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Progress is slow right now, im doing the chains and guides because i have heard to many horror stories about the m62 guides falling apart.
@monkeymadness i plan on tapping holes for a m20 crank sensor bracket and shaving it down a bit so i can put it where i want and not have to worry about welding the aluminium. someone on here has done it thats where i got the idea.
So now i need to order the chains gaskets and guides, and the tools to set the engine at tdc. Its going to take a while but i juat got a new job so hopefully the 💵💵 will speed things up a bit
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I don't run a back plate on my manifold. I let the crank case breath to open air.
I have a smooth plate.
The crank trigger is needed in the exact location as the timing mark. Due to the timing gap @ 180* mark. if you locate the crank trigger at any other spot you will confuse the ecu. even if your running MS is also reads the timing gap and the cam trigger reads the cam position "in that timing gap." so the location of both (crank and cam trigger) are very important.
I learned early in life the hard way never take advice from some one who hasn't done it, if that advice cost you money, a girl, or your Life....
just sayin...
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This is a fantastic thread! I certainly hope there will be more updates and discussion, I've learned so much great stuff here. :)
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also as i posted in another thread, the plastic vacuum plate on the back of the intake manifold is missing from my engine when i bought it, so i pulled one off af the m60 at the yard and it dosnt seem to fit? did they change from m60-62? also what does that plate even do? could i block it off?
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got some minimal updates! i foung a 95 740 at a local pic and pull and got my self a toothed crank pulley, maf, new dipstick and tube (mine was damaged).
now i need a lower oil pan, obd1 wiring harness and 404 dme! if anyone has a known working ones pm me!
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Alright so its been a while sence iv updated this thread, some minor progress i have made.
I decided it would be smart to replace the chain guides while the engine is on the stand.
The hardest part so far was removing the notorious "jesus bolt", tried heat, impact gun, pb blast a 1/2 breaker bar.
Thankfully a guy i work with had a 3/4 breaker bar about 5' long and a giant pry bar, wedged it between two fly wheel bolts and came out like nothing.
also, arent the oil pump gear bolts notorious for coming lose? mine seems to be tight.
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Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View PostHow many people have welded on the crank sensor mount? I was only aware of a couple...
Keep in mind, for use with a megasquirt or standalone ECU, the sensor really can go anywhere. The location is only ticklish when using a stock DME.
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Originally posted by dougie30 View PostThanks for all of the info guys i appreciate it.
I figured if the sensor location, gap and angle where so precise and touchy then i would have read about more peoples swaps not starting or misfiring seems like everyone gets it first try so it shoulnt be to hard.
Keep in mind, for use with a megasquirt or standalone ECU, the sensor really can go anywhere. The location is only ticklish when using a stock DME.
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