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My new m62! bringing this thread back from the grave

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  • dougie30
    replied


    found this it has some good info on witch sensors work with the obd1 harness

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  • dougie30
    replied
    Originally posted by MonkeyMadness View Post
    Yes! that's the setup I have on my car now!
    it's not hard to convert..




    yes.......



    Not a clue.. sorry
    AWESOME. thanks alot, i appreciate it. now there should be a wright up for the b30 x20 to c101 harness adapter out there correct? i just have to find it? and the rest is just plug and play on the engine side im assuming.

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  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
    Ok so some slow updates, i found a five speed zf310 transmission for sale. I drove up to NH last week and the guy sold me the trans and gave me the engine for an extra 50$ ;D

    The first question i have is can i use the m60b30 wiring on my m62 for the obd1 conversion?
    Yes! that's the setup I have on my car now!
    it's not hard to convert..


    Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
    Second question is will the b30 clutch kit and fly wheel work with the b44 and zf310 setup?
    yes.......

    Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
    Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this? or can i pull it out the front?

    any insight helps! I will re-search in the mean time.
    Not a clue.. sorry

    Leave a comment:


  • dougie30
    replied
    Ok so some slow updates, i found a five speed zf310 transmission for sale. I drove up to NH last week and the guy sold me the trans and gave me the engine for an extra 50$ ;D

    The first question i have is can i use the m60b30 wiring on my m62 for the obd1 conversion?

    Second question is will the b30 clutch kit and fly wheel work with the b44 and zf310 setup?

    Third question is the input shaft has a good amount of play so id like the change the input shaft bearing, do i have to take the whole trans apart to do this? or can i pull it out the front?

    any insight helps! I will re-search in the mean time.
    Attached Files

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  • dougie30
    replied
    Originally posted by MonkeyMadness View Post
    Lol.. that was me that shaved the m20 bracket and mounted it by drill and tapping the front cover...

    Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
    Hahahaha well it worked right?!

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  • dougie30
    replied
    Hahahah well it worked right?!

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  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
    Progress is slow right now, im doing the chains and guides because i have heard to many horror stories about the m62 guides falling apart.

    @monkeymadness i plan on tapping holes for a m20 crank sensor bracket and shaving it down a bit so i can put it where i want and not have to worry about welding the aluminium. someone on here has done it thats where i got the idea.

    So now i need to order the chains gaskets and guides, and the tools to set the engine at tdc. Its going to take a while but i juat got a new job so hopefully the 💵💵 will speed things up a bit
    Lol.. that was me that shaved the m20 bracket and mounted it by drill and tapping the front cover...

    Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • dougie30
    replied
    Progress is slow right now, im doing the chains and guides because i have heard to many horror stories about the m62 guides falling apart.

    @monkeymadness i plan on tapping holes for a m20 crank sensor bracket and shaving it down a bit so i can put it where i want and not have to worry about welding the aluminium. someone on here has done it thats where i got the idea.

    So now i need to order the chains gaskets and guides, and the tools to set the engine at tdc. Its going to take a while but i juat got a new job so hopefully the 💵💵 will speed things up a bit

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    I don't run a back plate on my manifold. I let the crank case breath to open air.
    I have a smooth plate.
    The crank trigger is needed in the exact location as the timing mark. Due to the timing gap @ 180* mark. if you locate the crank trigger at any other spot you will confuse the ecu. even if your running MS is also reads the timing gap and the cam trigger reads the cam position "in that timing gap." so the location of both (crank and cam trigger) are very important.

    I learned early in life the hard way never take advice from some one who hasn't done it, if that advice cost you money, a girl, or your Life....

    just sayin...

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  • Tjabo
    replied
    This is a fantastic thread! I certainly hope there will be more updates and discussion, I've learned so much great stuff here. :)

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  • dougie30
    replied
    also as i posted in another thread, the plastic vacuum plate on the back of the intake manifold is missing from my engine when i bought it, so i pulled one off af the m60 at the yard and it dosnt seem to fit? did they change from m60-62? also what does that plate even do? could i block it off?

    Leave a comment:


  • dougie30
    replied
    got some minimal updates! i foung a 95 740 at a local pic and pull and got my self a toothed crank pulley, maf, new dipstick and tube (mine was damaged).

    now i need a lower oil pan, obd1 wiring harness and 404 dme! if anyone has a known working ones pm me!

    Leave a comment:


  • dougie30
    replied
    Alright so its been a while sence iv updated this thread, some minor progress i have made.

    I decided it would be smart to replace the chain guides while the engine is on the stand.

    The hardest part so far was removing the notorious "jesus bolt", tried heat, impact gun, pb blast a 1/2 breaker bar.
    Thankfully a guy i work with had a 3/4 breaker bar about 5' long and a giant pry bar, wedged it between two fly wheel bolts and came out like nothing.







    also, arent the oil pump gear bolts notorious for coming lose? mine seems to be tight.

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  • dougie30
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    How many people have welded on the crank sensor mount? I was only aware of a couple...

    Keep in mind, for use with a megasquirt or standalone ECU, the sensor really can go anywhere. The location is only ticklish when using a stock DME.
    this is true, gotcha

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by dougie30 View Post
    Thanks for all of the info guys i appreciate it.

    I figured if the sensor location, gap and angle where so precise and touchy then i would have read about more peoples swaps not starting or misfiring seems like everyone gets it first try so it shoulnt be to hard.
    How many people have welded on the crank sensor mount? I was only aware of a couple...

    Keep in mind, for use with a megasquirt or standalone ECU, the sensor really can go anywhere. The location is only ticklish when using a stock DME.

    Leave a comment:

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