Relocating brake master cylinder E30 v8 swap

[Reyhan335]

No I wrecked my E30 on a wet mountain road. I sold my swap and it's currently in another E30 coupe using the same brake setup.
What stock MC did you use? Isn't it a 23mm front and 21mm rear? Are you on stock calipers?


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i'm sorry you wrecked it man:/

[czkb]

to each his method, 1000+ ways to fold a piece of paper

in mine i used the stock master+booster located in cabin in place of the hvac,
as a support i used a e34 oem pedalbox & a big spring,
i welded the e34 clutch & brake pedal toghether so the box is right in the middle of the tunnel & my linkage just near the edge of the tunnel,
a metal T bar bended correctly is then usedto link both my e30 pedal & the e34 one.

so basically when i brake i push on my pedal,
my linkage pull the e34 clutch pedal & since she's welded to the brake pedal,
the brake pedal is pushing on the booster/master.
oem brakes... tho had to remake lines & put the valve bias in cabin,
but that was no big deal since at the same time i added an e-brake and had to do it anyway.

con;

i still need a remote reservoir to have it in engine bay;
because checking levels&filling is a pain in the ass,
must use the opening (in engine bay where you access, wipers motor)
since now have a propper welder i must redo the thing smaller 
& as part of transmission tunnel no more plates & cut center console.

des photos

[shiboujin]

The master I used said 22/17. It was a factory late model master though. So whatever it was. I'm on stock calipers and OEM pads.

[st.petebiodiesel]

No I wrecked my E30 on a wet mountain road. I sold my swap and it's currently in another E30 coupe using the same brake setup.
What stock MC did you use? Isn't it a 23mm front and 21mm rear? Are you on stock calipers?


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[shiboujin]

You still on this? I did the VW master and just last weekend swapped back to a factory master. Just going manual and shifting the pedal ratio higher was the simple answer. The VW rabbit master made things squishy so I couldn't lock the wheels. I deleted my ABS and replaced the rear prop valve and it's good so far.

[st.petebiodiesel]

For you guys worried about firewall flexing let me help you understand the mounting of the master cylinder.
This is your pedal bracket. What the bolts through the mounting plate bolt through. The firewall provides no strength at all in this area. It's really thin gauge. So by bolting a adapter plate on the other side of the firewall you are relying on the pedal bracket for strength (as originally designed). The aluminum plate is just an adapter for the master cylinder. The firewall doesn't flex.
For this to fail you would have to generate enough force to separate the pedal bracket from its mounting and tear the firewall. The brake pedal would buckle before that happened.


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[shiboujin]

I got an LS2. I've had a few brake setups. Trying the manual setup for right now. Hydroboost was fun.

[st.petebiodiesel]

Yeah i believe the stock MC is 19mm or 21mm. It would be pretty stiff. Just make sure you move your pushrod up as high as possible on your pedal to get a better ratio. My brakes arent spongy and the travel isn't really that long. What engine are you swapping? Ill send you a PM for the reservoir.

[shiboujin]

Screw the haters! You're safe. I'm using the factory master right now. Imagine how much fun it is for me to drive daily :). How's the pedal travel? Theoretically it should be "spongy" but I don't think it should be.

You willing to ship that res? PM me what you want if so!

[st.petebiodiesel]

Yeah i,ve been driving my setup for 3 months. I didn't post any further because of the negative feedback. The brakes work great, yeah you have to push pretty hard but you get used to it. The resevoir is hard to find. I have a spare if you want it. I used a brake reservoir from a motorcycle for my clutch reservoir. I would recommend using a good quality high friction brake pad. It really helps. I did have to shim the master cylinder toward the fender so it's not square to the firewall. I used a heim joint end on me pushrod to keep it straight.

[shiboujin]

Ever finish this brah? I can't find the res for any less than $120. Plus I there isn't a provision for the clutch fluid but I guess you can just make a separate one for that.

I'm basically doing the same thing right meow.

[jalopi]

there seems to be alot of misinformation and interesting speculation about manual brakes going on here. so lets clear the air:

here's pretty much what an OE braking system looks like


here's an OE system, sans pedal ratio, without a booster


here's what OP is planning on using. it'll vary slightly depending on his actual pedal ratio, but not by much


obviously OP's brakes aren't exactly to OE torque specs. but rest assured, he will be able to stop the car. he'll have to slightly plan ahead for stops though, as panic stops with this setup are... interesting.

here's the setup i had, i used e46 330i brakes on all four corners. the only thing that's different is i had a .625" master vs OP's selection


some people feel the need to stay 4lug though. i get that (lol jk not really). here's why you shouldn't only do a front BBK


granted, you could tune the bias with a proportioning valve, but you're still falling short of your torque requirements

this is why i say if you're gonna do a BBK, do it on both axles


here's my take on doing a BBK to your e30: convert to e36/46 stuff. lets be honest with ourselves here; e30s are aging to the point where, in the near future, hotrodding and racing them will be impractical for 90% of us. sure, we'll keep the e30 because of its classic looks and charm, but the worry of wrecking it/ruining its value will drive us to toy with e36/46s.

case in point, here's what you'd be dealing with if you bought massives' biggest, most ballin-est set of brakes for the e36/46



i have no idea how to calculate something like this, but i'm pretty sure they'd never overheat/fade on an e30

[Old city bimmer]

If you are going to build something and the first thing you realize it's too expensive. Then it's not for you. I can tell you anybody that has done a V8 swap did not do it because it was a cheap swap. And we all sure as hell didn't know what it would cost either.
Well I call it suicidal based on the material you are using. you are swapping a V8 in your car and you want to do booster delete. The amount of pressure you will require to stop will be double and using that small gauge of metal will cause a flex in the fire wall which eventually in time will fracture. I for one don't like to gamble with brake system in a car. I feel a lot more comfortable with Oem set up or with a reputable manufacturer. My life and others is important to me. My .02 cents.

Other than that keep posting...we all may learn something.


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[1990m3]

not bad in theory, good luck on execution. Here is a site I found recently with some interesting booster eliminating products for other posters here interested in eliminating a booster

http://www.chasebays.com/chase-bays-brake-booster-eliminator-for-euro-chassis/

No affiliation

[JGood]

shibi always delivers with dick jokes

lol. but OP seriously the only thing i can bust your balls on is material thickness. i'd personally use 1/4" minimum for aluminum, ideally 5/16 or 3/8. methinks you probably have a little bit of flex in that 1/8" plate when really stomping on the brakes

I agree... I don't see anything wrong with this setup, besides the potential for firewall flex. I'd actually put a bracket in between the firewall and strut tower support. e30's tend to rust in that area, and even if not, it could still flex.

But as the OP said, Massive has been doing these booster deletes for a while, so he's probably more familiar with how strong that area is and how it reacts to stomping the brakes.

One thing I'd be cautious about, with the additional pedal travel, is that you modify your pedal box in a way that you can still have plenty of travel. I know that's one of the things I struggled with when doing mine. In the end I had more then enough room though, as I wasn't aware just how little travel the stock setup actually needs.