shibi always delivers with dick jokes
lol. but OP seriously the only thing i can bust your balls on is material thickness. i'd personally use 1/4" minimum for aluminum, ideally 5/16 or 3/8. methinks you probably have a little bit of flex in that 1/8" plate when really stomping on the brakes
Relocating brake master cylinder E30 v8 swap
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The reservoir is a VW rabbit/scirocco mk1 p/n 867611301B
To those of you who are sceptical i invite you to research Massive brakes bmw e30/e36 booster delete kit. Booster deletes are pretty common on racing cars for a better pedal feel. Yes the pedal will be harder to push but will still generate enough pressure to lock the wheels up. Many people who complain about stiff pedal or uneffective braking are using the stock 23mm MC that was inteded to be used with a booster. Using a smaller 17mm MC that was used on a similar sized car with similar sized brakes with no booster will give me slightly longer travel but less pedal force. I have done extensive research on the booster delete.
I didn't want to use the garagistic pedal box because $175 for the box,$200 for the pedals, and $225 for 3 MCs. Not to mention you have to remove the dash(not fun)
Relocating the booster/MC requires you to modify all of your pedals, move your abs motor, fabricate a fulcrum linkage, and then plumb all those lines.
With the setup im building $25 for a VW MC, $25 for the reservoir, some thick metal, and a custom brake pushrod. Your abs motor can stay, and you only have to plumb 2 lines. I'm using titanium aircraft hi lok bolts to attach my plate to the firewall and MC to the plate. If anything was to fail during braking it would likely be my drivers seat mount.
I hope this helps alleviate any concerns. However if you still have any criticism about this setup i would hope you could be more specific to what aspect of the setup you do not fancy instead of calling it suicidal or crazy.Leave a comment:
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the only thing i don't like about this is the material thickness - i personally used 1/4" plate on my car and that was with mild steel. 1/8" aluminum, regardless of the alloy, is just a bit sketchy in my mind
other than that this is pretty much the same as a massive booster delete. not sure why so many people are busting OP's ballsLeave a comment:
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No offence but the first paragraph has me questioning if you should continue with the build...
The next has me questioning the safety of the build. If "too hard or too expansive" is the deciding factor for the safety of yourself, passengers, and innocent people on the streets I'll ask you to refer back to my first statement. again No offence
YOLOLeave a comment:
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One on the biggest challenges of the E30 v8 swap is the brake system. The manual brakes with a pedal box cost more than i paid for the engine/transmission. Relocating the booster/master cylinder and abs pump is too much work in my opinion.
Moving the MC 2" over and 1" up will give you just enough clearance to squeeze in an M60.
This is as far over as you can go because of the bracket for the clutch MC behind the firewall.
In my next post i will explain how i modified the brake pedal and fabed a pushrod.
The next has me questioning the safety of the build. If "too hard or too expansive" is the deciding factor for the safety of yourself, passengers, and innocent people on the streets I'll ask you to refer back to my first statement. again No offence
YOLOLeave a comment:
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Relocating brake master cylinder E30 v8 swap
One on the biggest challenges of the E30 v8 swap is the brake system. The manual brakes with a pedal box cost more than i paid for the engine/transmission. Relocating the booster/master cylinder and abs pump is too much work in my opinion.
Here are some pictures showing E30s and how much room is available.
Massives booster delete kit has the right idea. Remove the booster and use a smaller bore MC, it even moves the location of the master cylinder slightly. Sounds great right? Well it doesn't fit the m6x v8, but its sooooooo close.
Here is my solution. Remove your stock Booster, MC, and brake pedal. You will not be reusing your booster or MC. To reduce your brake pedal pressure you will need to purchase a smaller diameter MC. I got a 17mm MC from a VW rabbit mk1, as suggested by massive for stock brakes. If your running anything larger than stock brakes you should get a 19mm MC from a porsche 911 1987 and older. Both of these cars came with unboosted brakes.
Next find you a thick piece of metal. I snagged some 7075t6 .125" from work. You're going to want some thick/strong material since your MC will be bolted to this.
Moving the MC 2" over and 1" up will give you just enough clearance to squeeze in an M60.
This is as far over as you can go because of the bracket for the clutch MC behind the firewall.
In my next post i will explain how i modified the brake pedal and fabed a pushrod.Tags: None
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