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Project Overly Ambitious

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  • dmjensen
    replied
    Yeah you need a brown single pin sensor.

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  • jpod999
    replied
    I'm thinking I pulled the wrong sensor from Pick N Pull- everything I've seen about E30 coolant temp sensors for the cluster points to the sensor being single pin. The sensor above has two pins.

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  • dasmanschaft012
    replied
    Originally posted by jpod999 View Post
    I need to diagnose why my coolant temp gauge isn’t working. I have C101 pin 4 wired to X20 pin 12, but maybe this is wrong? When I start the car the needle jumps to either ¼ or ½ and doesn’t budge.
    On my car, some of the temp sensor pins were backwards compared to swap guides. Trace the single pin of the connector all the way back to C101 to verify you have this correct. It kind of sounds to me like you might have the temp sensor wire on C101 hooked up to something that has a midscale voltage

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  • dmjensen
    replied
    Check across your sensor and see what the resistance is, there should be a measurement reference online somewhere or in a book. Then when you check continuity in the harness take one meter lead to power and ground and then all of the other pins in the harness ( with the meter still set to Ohms ). That will insure you don’t have a shorted wire. Sometimes just doing continuity alone will cause you to miss something.

    Best of luck

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  • jpod999
    replied
    Project Overly Ambitious



    My next step is to check continuity through to the C101.

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  • Pootis
    replied
    What color is the connector?

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  • jpod999
    replied
    I thought so, I pulled a sensor from a 325i at a Pick n Pull a while ago.

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  • Pootis
    replied
    Are you using the right sensor?

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  • jpod999
    replied
    Project Overly Ambitious

    I need to diagnose why my coolant temp gauge isn’t working. I have C101 pin 4 wired to X20 pin 12, but maybe this is wrong? When I start the car the needle jumps to either ¼ or ½ and doesn’t budge.

    Leave a comment:


  • jpod999
    replied
    I sent Jay at sssquid a photo of the stock chip so he could look up the software on it. I pulled the 404 DME from a 12/94 build 540i/6 which is right before they went away from the 404 and to the 484 apparently. According to him the DME is looking for the stock chip to be able to fire up as it has the correct 'crypto-password'. I just emailed him asking if I sent the stock chip to him would he be able to clone the password to his chip. Standby.

    EDIT: Doing some reading and ran across this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mp-EWS-Problem. There's a photo of a DME with VIN GA64425- the car I pulled my harness and DME from was GA64424!
    Last edited by jpod999; 07-01-2018, 08:32 PM.

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  • jpod999
    replied
    Replacement chip came in, I swapped it in. I’m getting good at this!

    Still no CEL and doesn’t start.

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  • jpod999
    replied
    I asked Jay at sssquid if I should try installing it backwards and he said that could ruin the chip. It's currently on its way back to Colorado Springs, he will be sending me another when the first gets to him.

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  • Supadave
    replied
    Trying flipping the chip around. I had the same problem with my S52 swap. Got a tune from Active, and had the same problem. Turned the chip 180 degrees and BINGO she started right up.

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  • jpod999
    replied
    I got the chip in today- no CEL and just sits there cranking forever. Pulled the DME and swapped the stock chip back in- starts right up again.

    Waiting for a response from Jay at sssquid.

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  • jpod999
    replied
    I’m just running the stock M60B40 tune right now, I’m pretty excited to get an appropriate tune in the car.

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