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From Dad's DD to my new toy... M62B44 swap time!!!

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  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboyx View Post
    thank you. no worries. i don't think it fits anyway.

    as to your your predicament above, do you happen to have a floor standing drill press? if you do, you can set the block up vertically and drill slowly.

    at this point, the best course of action would be to drill it out oversize and drop in a hellicoil.

    if i were you, i would not use the cover as a guide. all you are going to do is mess it up.


    it is going to be difficult to stay on the bolt with your drill if you try to cut the hole by hand. it will tend to wander off into the aluminum.

    DONT try to remove it with one cut. drill a pilot hole first with a tiny bit.

    i would use a center punch on the tip of the offending stud in order to try getting a small pilot hole started. use good sharp drill bits. tip the block up vertically to work on it if you can. it will make it easier to keep the hole straight.

    godspeed
    No drill press... I've already drilled a very small pilot hole and dremeled most of the material away with chainsaw sharpening bits. It's just a mm or so smaller in diameter than it should be for tapping. I just need to round out the hole to the proper tapping size.

    I know the ramifications of f'ing this up and am taking my time.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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  • flyboyx
    replied
    thank you. no worries. i don't think it fits anyway.

    as to your your predicament above, do you happen to have a floor standing drill press? if you do, you can set the block up vertically and drill slowly.

    at this point, the best course of action would be to drill it out oversize and drop in a hellicoil.

    if i were you, i would not use the cover as a guide. all you are going to do is mess it up.


    it is going to be difficult to stay on the bolt with your drill if you try to cut the hole by hand. it will tend to wander off into the aluminum.

    DONT try to remove it with one cut. drill a pilot hole first with a tiny bit.

    i would use a center punch on the tip of the offending stud in order to try getting a small pilot hole started. use good sharp drill bits. tip the block up vertically to work on it if you can. it will make it easier to keep the hole straight.

    godspeed

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboyx View Post
    thank you for that. looks like i'll need to fab my own for the s62. i didn't see one listed to fit that engine.
    I'd offer to let you borrow it via USPS, but after I got it I quickly understood why it cost $20 to ship it. It's pretty damn heavy. By the time we've paid to send it back and forth, you may as well have bought your own.

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    As I have mentioned in another thread I had a bolt break while removing the upper cover on the back of the block. That's what I get for being impatient and using a cordless impact driver to get those 17 bolts off. So instead of saving maybe five minutes work, I added another 5 HOURS work and a full day's delay while waiting for some tools (metric drill bits, stop collars for the bits and a metric tap kit).

    I drilled a small hole and then used a dremel to get the hole to an approximate diameter. I'll bolt the cover on and use it as a guide to drill the proper diameter hole. I'll use a collar on the drill bit so depth is correct also. If the cover is damaged I'll get another, I've seen it as low as $43 on FCPeuro.com.

    I also ordered a whole bunch of new M6 bolts for that cover and the lower oil pan. I used belmetric.com for that. Hard to beat ~$30 for 75 bolts and washers.

    Does anyone have a good technique for getting that crusty old gasket off without marring the block?



    Leave a comment:


  • flyboyx
    replied
    Originally posted by wspellmann View Post
    Got the crank holder on Amazon for $65 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZW6CYA..._7oRTBuUTwjPmq

    Am in San Antonio.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    thank you for that. looks like i'll need to fab my own for the s62. i didn't see one listed to fit that engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboyx View Post
    i really like that hold down tool. did you fab it up?

    where exactly are you located?
    Got the crank holder on Amazon for $65 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZW6CYA..._7oRTBuUTwjPmq

    Am in San Antonio.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • flyboyx
    replied
    i really like that hold down tool. did you fab it up?

    where exactly are you located?

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Everyone told me the Jesus bolt was hard to get off. All I used was a $25 3/4" breaker bar. I didn't even use a cheater bar. [emoji2]

    Whatever, I'm glad I didn't have to sacrifice a child to the gods to get 'er done.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by wspellmann View Post
    Yeah my doors still close and seal. But they don't line up perfectly anymore either.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    If you had to adjust the striker plate, that's probably due to hinge wear.

    If you're talking about gap variation, then they probably never closed "perfectly".

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    Bye, Felicia!

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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  • wspellmann
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    So what?
    If you're crossmember is changing shape in 30 years, that's a problem. Being old doesn't make parts not fit. Your doors still close and seal, right?
    Yeah my doors still close and seal. But they don't line up perfectly anymore either.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by wspellmann View Post

    Yeah, it kinda sucks that these parts aren't bolting in without issue, but we have to remember that these E30's are 26 years old at best. My chassis will be 30 years old in June.
    So what?
    If you're crossmember is changing shape in 30 years, that's a problem. Being old doesn't make parts not fit. Your doors still close and seal, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • wspellmann
    replied
    I'm still waiting for my crank holder tool here. Starting to wonder if it will ever show up.

    While waiting for said tool, I have put new o-rings and filter cups on the injectors and I just returned from dropping off the valve covers to be powder coated in white to match the car's paint. I haven't seen anyone get them done in white, so I'm excited to see how it looks. Those should be done by Wednesday.

    Originally posted by stonea View Post
    I never like to hear stuff like this. It seems they now have "bolt in" issues with their DSSR, subframe reinforcements, and x brace.
    Yeah, it kinda sucks that these parts aren't bolting in without issue, but we have to remember that these E30's are 26 years old at best. My chassis will be 30 years old in June.

    Leave a comment:


  • stonea
    replied
    Originally posted by jpod999 View Post
    I had the same issue.
    I never like to hear stuff like this. It seems they now have "bolt in" issues with their DSSR, subframe reinforcements, and x brace.

    Leave a comment:


  • jpod999
    replied
    Originally posted by wspellmann View Post
    The reinforcements were made by Garagistic, they did not fit very well. The shop that did the welding had to grind them down to make them fit.
    I had the same issue.

    Leave a comment:

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