Hey everyone I'm doin a V8 swap and had some pics to share maybe it could help someone out there, please comment. A little about my swap..
1989 325i auto sedan
S62 and 6 speed trans going in using Macalent guide
Garagistic motor mounts and 10mm spacers, Revshift 95A Polyurethane bushings.
5 lug swapped with E36 M3 front brakes Z3 rears, 96+ E36 M3 control arms and offset bushings E36 M3 struts H&R sport springs with Koni shocks
E46 M3 steering rack using E46 steering linkage.
Garagistic boosterless brake setup
Garagistic chassis reinforcements
Removable radiator support
I have stock 4-2-1 headers, and I also have the DNA/Speeddaddy 740i headers. Ebay stuff I had to do some work to fit, the flanges didn't line up on the head studs, a driver side secondary pipe hits the bell housing so I took a little off there to make it fit while on the engine stand, in case anyone was thinking about it you should be warned. The problem with these is they go directly through the secondaries I believe there is a collector there to add to the fun.
So I decided to work on my stock headers since they come pretty close. (not talking about any firewall modifications just steering rack) I cut the outer skin on the double walled headers and on the inside they are in 3 pieces. I didn't cut any pipes, only cut the outer layer heat shield off. My plan is to rotate and weld.
Based on what I read from e36brua and his California BAR approved M62, this should be acceptable if I want to get approved as well. Correct me if I'm wrong, He kept the flanges and ran new pipes in the same general layout with carb approved aftermarket cats.
Anyways heres some pics
Clearance from steering rack to oil pan
Rack is mounted on stock position holes closest to the subframe and Engine mounts set to be closer to the firewall. I should mention the poly bushings have 2 possible mounting positions forward and backward, ~half inch adjustment there. I already did it so i cant get anymore clearance without going to the forward motor mount engine position.
Clearance from steering rack bolt to oil pan
I had to cut a little off the top of the black steering bracket as well. You can see the bolt head is very close to the oil pan. Will the polyurethane bushings settle and will i end up touching? Wont the motor flex and make contact?
I was thinking maybe cut or bend the tabs to a lower position and remove the steering rack spacers to gain some clearance there.
Gets me thinkin, Do i need the subframe spacers if I'm sitting low like this?
Heres the headers I mentioned above. Elbows come apart but one is sandwiched in on each side and may need a cut all the way around to disconnect. Use caution not to cut into main pipes but its pretty easy theres an air gap between the 2 layers and you can feel it make the cut.
Heres a pic of the engine bay I sledge hammered the top of the trans tunnel entrance. Manual says I need to do a bit more towards the firewall next to the old brake booster hole, we'll see.
Im currently about to do my first test fit of the engine and transmission and from there see what I can do with this stock headers.
Im going to try to keep A/C and ABS, but don't know where I can relocate the ABS to. But who needs that shiit right?
1989 325i auto sedan
S62 and 6 speed trans going in using Macalent guide
Garagistic motor mounts and 10mm spacers, Revshift 95A Polyurethane bushings.
5 lug swapped with E36 M3 front brakes Z3 rears, 96+ E36 M3 control arms and offset bushings E36 M3 struts H&R sport springs with Koni shocks
E46 M3 steering rack using E46 steering linkage.
Garagistic boosterless brake setup
Garagistic chassis reinforcements
Removable radiator support
I have stock 4-2-1 headers, and I also have the DNA/Speeddaddy 740i headers. Ebay stuff I had to do some work to fit, the flanges didn't line up on the head studs, a driver side secondary pipe hits the bell housing so I took a little off there to make it fit while on the engine stand, in case anyone was thinking about it you should be warned. The problem with these is they go directly through the secondaries I believe there is a collector there to add to the fun.
So I decided to work on my stock headers since they come pretty close. (not talking about any firewall modifications just steering rack) I cut the outer skin on the double walled headers and on the inside they are in 3 pieces. I didn't cut any pipes, only cut the outer layer heat shield off. My plan is to rotate and weld.
Based on what I read from e36brua and his California BAR approved M62, this should be acceptable if I want to get approved as well. Correct me if I'm wrong, He kept the flanges and ran new pipes in the same general layout with carb approved aftermarket cats.
Anyways heres some pics
Clearance from steering rack to oil pan
Rack is mounted on stock position holes closest to the subframe and Engine mounts set to be closer to the firewall. I should mention the poly bushings have 2 possible mounting positions forward and backward, ~half inch adjustment there. I already did it so i cant get anymore clearance without going to the forward motor mount engine position.
Clearance from steering rack bolt to oil pan
I had to cut a little off the top of the black steering bracket as well. You can see the bolt head is very close to the oil pan. Will the polyurethane bushings settle and will i end up touching? Wont the motor flex and make contact?
I was thinking maybe cut or bend the tabs to a lower position and remove the steering rack spacers to gain some clearance there.
Gets me thinkin, Do i need the subframe spacers if I'm sitting low like this?
Heres the headers I mentioned above. Elbows come apart but one is sandwiched in on each side and may need a cut all the way around to disconnect. Use caution not to cut into main pipes but its pretty easy theres an air gap between the 2 layers and you can feel it make the cut.
Heres a pic of the engine bay I sledge hammered the top of the trans tunnel entrance. Manual says I need to do a bit more towards the firewall next to the old brake booster hole, we'll see.
Im currently about to do my first test fit of the engine and transmission and from there see what I can do with this stock headers.
Im going to try to keep A/C and ABS, but don't know where I can relocate the ABS to. But who needs that shiit right?