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Cruise Control on Manual Swap - Cleaning up a half assed job from PO

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    Cruise Control on Manual Swap - Cleaning up a half assed job from PO

    So close!
    PO didn't even bother to retrofit a clutch switch and after a few day of looking for the proper hardware for a 1988is I realized that the pedal box was not FROM an 88is.
    Made a bracket to hold the clutch switch. It is actuating as it should.
    Went through the wiki installations as if I was doing this from scratch and I find the only thing that doesn't like up with that instruction or the Bentley is I am not getting a good ground at terminal "9" at the cruise plug.
    I do get 12v with ignition on at "1" and "23".

    I know "9" goes to the brake lights but not sure how to proceed.
    Brakes lights work fine.
    Seems everything else is in order.



    #2
    Here's a summary of what I did to get my cruise working: For anyone who wants to add a Cruise Control to their E30, here's a few things I learned:

    If you have a choice, get all the parts from the same car. That way you don't have to worry about compatibility. There appears to be an older and a newer system. They are not compatible. Make sure all of your parts are of the same configuration. Here are the parts you'll need:

    1.) Steering column switch (airbag cars have a different switch than non-airbag cars)
    2.) Harness
    3.) Actuator (and bracket)
    4.) Electronic Box (and bracket)
    5.) Clutch switch (and bracket)
    6.) Green plug for instrument cluster

    Here are a few details about the installation:

    1.) If your car never came with a Cruise Control ( i.e. 318is, M40 engine models, etc.) you will have to adapt the Actuator bracket to mount to the same bracket that holds the air filter housing. Mine just took a small strap to connect to the air filter housing bracket.
    2.) You might have to shorten the rod that connects the actuator bracket to the throttle connection. I shortened mine and used a die to add more threads to the rod at the throttle. The engine throttle should have a space for another connection. That's where you connect your cruise cable to the throttle.
    3.) You'll have to thread the wire connected to the actuator through the firewall. Its easier to run a piece of spare wire from the cabin to the engine compartment and tie that to the actuator connector. Pull that spare wire/connector assembly into the cabin.
    4.) The standard location of the Electronic Box is above the Engine Computer above the glove compartment. It doesn't look like it will fit there, but it does. If you don't want to put it there, you probably can find a place on the drivers side. If you decide to put it in the standard glove box location, it will be easier to route the harness by removing the cluster and using that access hole to route the harness behind the radio.
    5.) Most of the harness connection is easy: you just plug all the mating connectors together. The exceptions are probably going to be at the clutch and brake switches. You will probably have to splice some wires at these locations.
    6.) The clutch switch has two wires going to it. The locations are interchangeable.
    7.) The brake switch has two wires going to it. They are not interchangeable. You must connect the Power wire (violet/white on my car) of the Cruise harness to the wire going to the brake pedal that has power when the key is on and the brake pedal is not pressed. Both wires on the brake switch have power when the pedal is pressed. But you need to connect the violet /white wire to the one that has power all the time that the key is on. This is where the Cruise Control system gets its power.
    8.) The lower plastic panel on the steering column needs a cutout on it so that there is room for the stalk switch. You can buy a trim piece with a hole, or just cut your own from the trim piece you have. The plastic cuts easily and the cutout location is marked on the inside of the panel.
    9.) The VSS wire that plugs into the cluster can go into any of the three places that it fits. They are all electrically connected so it doesn't matter which one you use.
    10.) You can use the early part number electronic module with the later switch, module and harness. If you do this, you will only be missing the "Decel" function. Everything else will work fine.

    The only thing missing is a schematic of the system. I will add that in the next post.

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      #3
      Here's the post that quote came from: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ontrol-upgrade

      I hope that helps.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by twright View Post
        Here's the post that quote came from: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ontrol-upgrade

        I hope that helps.
        Thanks.
        I feel like I've checked all the boxes except for one, it seems I am not getting ground at (9) so I am going to try and trace back the other end of that to S223 (C302) and see if that's the issue.
        The car DID have cruise before the swap, but they never finished doing the install, apparently.

        Maybe they left (9) disconnected since there was no clutch switch, and trying to activate the cruise would cause the car to redline when trying to change gears?

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          #5
          I'm assuming this is where I should have a ground but I have no continuity at these two points:

          https://photos.app.goo.gl/AJRDYiUdUsdRunG59

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            #6
            Not sure if this helps but the ground on the cruise control circuit to cancel it comes from the brake light switch. ti is looped form the brake side to the clutch side. HTH
            dlm ny country

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              #7
              Got it!!
              It WAS the ground at (9) and the reason I wasn't getting ground is because the bracket I made for the clutch switch needs to be stiffer as it was flexing just a tad bit, enough to not allow the clutch switch to engage properly.

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                #8

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