Okay, what the hell. My car is haunted.

[accident]

it's been well over a month. it was a month on the 28th of march. i got the report, faxed it in, they received it, and all of a sudden they want to talk to edwin.

[kronus]

Start pulling fuses and watch the amperage draw.

Oh, I've done that already. It's the fuse with ALL interior accessories on it, 19, I think. The most fun one to fix :|

[kronus]

i think it's time for a new E30. :P

For one of us ;)

Seriously, I think at this point you have every right to be mad at the police department and insco. It's been a month, wtf!

[accident]

i think it's time for a new E30. :P

[Knockenwelle]

Test lights work great as a high-tech digital troubleshooting device.

They're either on, or off. That's very useful, sometimes. Like "Is this circuit live, or not?"

Start pulling fuses and watch the amperage draw.

[kronus]

Yeah, I depress the trunk-closed-sensor when checking it. It's currently not bad, it was a lot worse before when the drain was up around 160 due to my old HU, and the car was standing in NJ... would die in about a week. It's not a problem now, I would just like to find the leaking component before it short-circuits completely on the inside and goes bad for reals.

[mooseheadm5]

That may be why stereoinstaller uses a test light first. Anyhow, 90mA is not that much and really should not kill your battery quickly. How fast does the battery die? Are you checking this with the trunk light unplugged? Have you checked to see the draw with the trunk closed to check that drain?
I hate test lights because you may think you are getting enough voltage somewhere because the light lights up, but without being able to quantify a voltage or current reading you can't be sure, so you go for the DMM anyhow. I skip the test light step, but I do have many uses for a self powered test light that is able to provide power or ground to a terminal at the push of a button.

[kronus]

Agreed on all points, but I HIGHLY recommend using a testlight to start off with.

Far easier to use than a DVM. Once you get to the acceptable range of only a tiny bit of light, then use the DVM.

I'm drawing about 90 mA at the moment, so it's a bit past the test light's capabilities.

Looks like I blew my DMM's current fuse at some point, though. Damn.

[jlevie]

A test light will work, but a DMM isn't subjective or affected by ambient lighting levels.

[StereoInstaller1]

Start parasitic draw chasing with your ammeter. Most likely causes on an E30 are glove box light, trunk light, SI board, and any aftermarket accessories (radio, alarm.) Key off draw should be around 45mA tops. 400-800mA draw is usually a light bulb. 100-200 is usually something electronic.

Agreed on all points, but I HIGHLY recommend using a testlight to start off with.

Far easier to use than a DVM. Once you get to the acceptable range of only a tiny bit of light, then use the DVM.

[mooseheadm5]

Start parasitic draw chasing with your ammeter. Most likely causes on an E30 are glove box light, trunk light, SI board, and any aftermarket accessories (radio, alarm.) Key off draw should be around 45mA tops. 400-800mA draw is usually a light bulb. 100-200 is usually something electronic.

[kronus]

Did you get a woman? </badjoke>

nope. Probably better that way.

[accident]

Once this issue goes away I can finally tackle my parasitic draw :|

Did you get a woman? </badjoke>

[kronus]

Thanks. Technical explanation is greatly appreciated.

Once this issue goes away I can finally tackle my parasitic draw :|

[mooseheadm5]

Only those two, IIRC. Just so you know what is going on is that when there is a loose connection, low currents can flow through them, but when you put the high draw from the starter through that connection, the amperage basically frys that connection and oxidizes it, rendering it useless. The reason it may come back later is probably from heat cycling- the connection will expand and contract and move enough to make an OK low power connection again, until you crank the starter. These same symptoms can be caused by bad batteries or cables, but you always want to rule out the connections first, since they are the cheapest, most simple, and the most common cause of the problem.