Broken bolt extractor.

[hotballs]

drill it all out and re-tap, or get a new TA

This, there was no way a bolt was coming out of the rear stub axle on a car I had in michigan. Ended up drilling and drilling until I drilled the same size hole again, then retap. But it was a matter of proving my manhood at that point. Would just get the new part now days.

Melt down the bolt with an oxy/acetylene torch if the bolt is a softer metal than the TA. But i mean why really go to this extreme.

[Simon S]

+ 2 for cutting a 'slut' in there with a cut-off-wheel-loaded dremel tool.

then yeah- get an impact driver and Mr. Hammer.

Sucks - but the trick has saved me numerous times.

[e30Matt]

Probably cost about the same, actually. I'd pull them both and do new bushings and bearings while I was in there, though, so the cost difference really becomes negligible at that point.

[Lurker27]

Honestly, it will be cheaper and less annoying to get a new TA.

[e30Matt]

Drilling it most likely won't work, because extractors are hardened steel, harder than most drill bits. I've destroyed more drill bits than it's worth trying to drill one out. Pull the trailing arm and have a machine shop remove it, probably charge you $20.

[Need4Speed1299]

Impact drivers are good stuff.

[BobombETA]

ive cut a slut in a broke bolt via dremel tool, then used flat head impact tool

Cool idea. I haven't heard this one yet.

[browntown]

reverse direction drill bit smaller than the bolt, or is the extractor still in it? take a picture of the carnage.

[REVHARD05]

ive cut a slut in a broke bolt via dremel tool, then used flat head impact tool

[Massive Lee]

You can still lay a nut flat and weld inside the hole, to the broken stud... If it doesn't work, then change the whle trailing arm... Shit happens.

[BobombETA]

I guess a long section of the bolt still portrudes from the trailing arm. So, have a shop weld a nut on the portruding section. All the heat will burn the rust that seized the bolt. and the nut will allow you to use a wrench or an air gun...

I wish.... but it in fact broke flush with the trailing arm.

[b*saint]

Old cars suck dont they?

[Massive Lee]

I guess a long section of the bolt still portrudes from the trailing arm. So, have a shop weld a nut on the portruding section. All the heat will burn the rust that seized the bolt. and the nut will allow you to use a wrench or an air gun...

[87-325ic]

drill it all out and re-tap, or get a new TA

[whysimon]

seriously? I guess hind sight is 20/20. @ this point I'd get a new trailing arm. I'm sure with the weather, salt, sand, and everything else your car endures that bolt isn't coming out without persistence

just a thought