I could certainly check to verify that there arent any shorts but I wouldnt think so. Those oem cables have a pretty good plastic insulation around them.
And everything works fine power wise unless I try to start the car. If there was a short, I believe there would be an issue at all times.
I would think that starting the car draws the most current, and when that much power is drawn, the connection cant withstand that kind of a current.
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Electrical Issue in main power cable of SpecE30- ideas?
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Is the lead from the battery shorting out somewhere along the way to the motor? Stripped interior = lots of metal to ground out on.
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Electrical Issue in main power cable of SpecE30- ideas?
Hey guys, Im really stumped right here so I thought I'd through it out for some opinions and Ideas. This is a SpecE30 racecar that is highly modified. There is a lot of electrical work that has been done but most of the stock wiring hasnt been touched.
Here's my setup:
Brand new OEM BMW battery is located in the trunk. I am running the stock 00 guage power wire from battery, through the cabin and into a 6 pole kill switch that is located under the hood. The wiring comes back out and goes into the stock + distributor block mounted on the firewall and stock from there.
Here's my issue:
When I insert the ignition key, insert the kill switch key, flip on all the power switches, and hit the start button, the starter will not turn and I hear a quick little click and all the lights in the cluster dim a bit and nothing happens. When I let off of the start button the lights come back to normal illumination.
For kicks I thought, ok, maybe the battery is dead so I hook up jumper cables to the front distributor block and ground to engine and car fires right up. So then to check, I hooked up the jumper cabels to the battery side of the power wires and the car didnt start. Same symptoms.
Then thought, ok, maybe the kill switch is bad. So i hook up a jumper wires to the output end of the kill switch and it started up and then hooked the jumper cables to the input side of the kill switch and it started up. So kill switch seems good.
In my mind, that would narrow the issue down to between the female end of the main power wire that connects to the battery terminal and the O-ring terminal connectors that connects to the kill switch. In short, the main power wire.
I am thinking that somehow where the wire attaches to either the O-ring connector or the battery terminal connector is corroded out and needs to be pulled off cleaned and put back in. I had a similar problem on my E39 540i so I might start there when I get back. The stock power wire where it connects to the terminal connector must have not had a clean connection so I had to pull the while wire out, remove the terminal connector, clean and reattach. Does any body have any other ideas of what might cause this issue or am I pretty much down to what might be wrong? Thanks.
btw, I left the car yesterday completely confused and while in the shower this morning I was thinking and made my conclusions.Tags: None
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