I swear im going to drive this thing off a cliff

[PeteD]

Nice! Congrats.

[Jodecious]

I FIXED IT!!! After lots of hair pulling and anger I found completely by accident that the little black OBC relay box behind the headlight switch had caught on fire at somepoint...pretty sketchy, but whatever. Twas $2 pick-n-pull fix after I discovered that lol. Megasquirt is in and I will not be intentionally driving it off a cliff in the near future.

[RobertC]

My vote is for a possible dodgy C101 connector.

If your experiencing loss of signals from the C101 you would lose the engine, the tach, and the coolant temp gauge. The coolant temp sensor signal passes through the C101, as well as the speed signal. (late model harness) Pull back the boots on both sides of the C101 and inspect the wires.

Considering you have replaced everything, including the harness, ECM and AFM, I am not so sure just tossing a MS into the mix would be the best thing to do.

I would hook a lead wire from the main relay to a test light. Start the engine and see if the light goes out when the engine dies. With the key in the ignition position, that relay will be lit whether the engine is running or not. Check both the power input (Red Wire) and the power output from the relay (Red/White Wire). If those both check out ok, check the ground side and also the trip signal wires as well. A wiring diagram will make this job alot easier.

You could have a bad ignition switch for all you know. The main harness connector from the fuse box to the body harness under the dash could be lose. There could still be a systematic problem beyond the engine harness and installing a MS may not even solve the problem. I think then you would simply burn the car to the ground at that point. Why be that guy?

I think you might want to do a little deeper diagnosis before throwing in the towel. I would get this problem solved and get the car running correctly before diving into a engine management unit and throwing it at the car in hopes of fixing a problem you have not even identified yet.

Just my $.02

[Jodecious]

...Long story short, new harness didnt work either. Now its throwing a 1215 code. Instead of replacing the AFM i have decided to be a cool guy and buy a megasquirt to rid the car of that pesky AFM. Hopefully problem solved lol

[603Racing]

The tachometer and econometer going to zero on a cut out could be a loss of timing data to the DME, a DME power/ground problem, or a problem with the DME. But temperature gage would not be affected by any of those.

Does the fuel gauge also go to zero? If it does I suspect a problem with primary power/ground. If it doesn't I'd suspect the engine harness. A problem in the engine harness could also cause cutouts.

+1 to this, specifically since you said the fuse housing looks f'd. Harness power issue, possibly stemming from the fuse housing damage or may be what caused the damage. I've seen a poorly wired car (aux fan wired without a relay) melt a fuse housing. Melted that f'er real good.

[bastianshaw]

check the main relay connection

[Jodecious]

Thankyou all for your quick replys! The Fuel lines are are on the correct way and the cps checks out fine, im going to grab a harness off a salvaged e30 this wednesday. Hopefully this works!

[jlevie]

The tach, mpg, and coolant temp gauge all snap to 0 when it bucks/chokes

The tachometer and econometer going to zero on a cut out could be a loss of timing data to the DME, a DME power/ground problem, or a problem with the DME. But temperature gage would not be affected by any of those.

Does the fuel gauge also go to zero? If it does I suspect a problem with primary power/ground. If it doesn't I'd suspect the engine harness. A problem in the engine harness could also cause cutouts.

[FLG]

Tack going to 0 points to a cps/wiring issue with the cps or ecu wiring issue/ecu.

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[Jodecious]

Looking at my fuse box earlier and noticed all of the fuses are intact but the plastic fuse housings look melted or heat cracked O.o

[Jodecious]

Yeah i might have to have it towed off a cliff. Lol all my parts are oem with the exeption of my cap and rotor which are napa echlin. The fuel tank is clean and has a new pump in it and new filter outside, il double check my fuel lines but it definitely seems like an electrical glitch. The tach, mpg, and coolant temp gauge all snap to 0 when it bucks/chokes

[FLG]

Might sound stupid but worth a shot. You don't have the fuel feed and return lines mixed up on the rail do you?

I don't even think it'll start reversed but just checking.

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[Quinthirty]

Has the car been sitting for awhile? Your fuel tank might be dirty and the pump is full of gunk.

[FLG]

No it is not.

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[trippmann]

isnt an adjustable timing gear required when this swap is done?