Getting hot at stops

[e30construction]

Prick :up:

Dick :down:...and jbedo i swapped the clutches out and kept the 9 blade fan on..i ordered another 11 blade one itll be here friday also got a new thermostat..also bleed the system a little more today and got a few air bubbles coming out so i let it bleed the rest out so im thinking i got the air out..havnt drove it since tho so ill let u know

[JBedo]

Haha! Easy now! Did you swap the fan back over?

[rav320uk]

Prick :up:

[e30construction]

actually the 9 blade fan is a little bigger so fuck off just had 2 less blades..if u dont like what im saying or what otheres are saying dont come into the thread its that simple..i know its hard for you to comprehend but nobody likes a trolling douchbag so really hop off my nuts and go fuck yourself

[rav320uk]

ok thanks for everyones help..i will do this tomorrow and hope it works..one last thing i need to ask..my firsst fan was a 11 blade fan and the one i bought is a 9 blade fan..would that make any difference?

And what??
You thought by adding a SMALLER FAN would help when the original was LARGER:down:

[e30construction]

Ask your G/f if your dick shrunk 2" would it make a difference dude.,.....

GTFO..nobody asked for you to come in here and be a smart ass i mean really if u most be a douch bag go troll someone elses thread..ur the exact reason ppl think bmw drivers a douchbags

[rav320uk]

ok thanks for everyones help..i will do this tomorrow and hope it works..one last thing i need to ask..my firsst fan was a 11 blade fan and the one i bought is a 9 blade fan..would that make any difference?

Ask your G/f if your dick shrunk 2" would it make a difference dude.,.....

[e30construction]

ok thanks for everyones help..i will do this tomorrow and hope it works..one last thing i need to ask..my firsst fan was a 11 blade fan and the one i bought is a 9 blade fan..would that make any difference?

[e30mpg]

still have air in the system, this is what i did when bleeding these m20

1. jack up front 1-2", then start up the car let it warm up with cap and bleeder closed.
2. Turn on heater high
3. when it warm up, open up the bleeder screw till no more air comes out just liquid, then close
4. open the res. cap and top off coolant
5. Locate the small hose that goes from radiator to res. and lift up the middle of the hose so it's higher then the bleeder screw. You should see bunch of bubbles coming out.
6. r3v idle to 1500-2000 rpm for 5-10 sec
7. Go back out to the engine bay and repeat step #5 till no more bubbles come out, top off coolant as needed.
8. Get in your car, get on the highway and gun it a few times then go home park with uphill incline and repeat #5 again. GL

[e30construction]

well i tried bleeding the sytem..got nothing but liguid coming out as well as the heater blowing hot air..let the car idle for a while and it still started creeping over the half mark but when i reved it it would drop back down between 1/4 and 1/2 so idk what to do..im thinking i may need a new tstat..anyone have any ideas?

[e30construction]

update: went out and took the new/used fan clutch off and turns out its really loose now, when i first got it it was pretty stiff so idk maybe it was messed with to get it sold..im getting ready to try bleeding the system again so hopefully its not to big off a deal..and can anyone point me in the direction of a diy for replacing the thermostat cus i figured i might as well get it switched out

[jlevie]

Because the gauge drifts up and then back down once the car starts moving, I think it is safe to say that the gauge is working properly.

Bleed the system by:

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

[e30construction]

the fan clutch i got was used but was very stiff and seemed to be ok to me but ill do the newspaper test and try to rebleed..ive never had any issue with my cluster doing this before and the si bats are brand new and was looked offer for any imperfections by gregs///m so im thinking it is actually getting hot

[rav320uk]

After a system bleed, when you fill; back up with fluid, turn the heaters on to FULL HOT and FULL FAN.
Does the air blow hot or cold???
If cold, then it's a block in the system.
If HOT, then it looks to be your NEW fan clutch is faulty.

One sure way of testing the fan clutch is by using a rolled up newspaper.
Get the car warm, and see if the newspaper will stop the fan, if it rips the paper up, then all is ok, if it stops the fan, the new item is definitely faulty.

If all is well, try jacking the front of the car up and bleeding the system that way.

[peytonracer4]

are you 100% positive your car is actually heating up? my car will do this sometimes when sitting still and i just hit my cluster. the temp gauge then goes back to just below center. i think i have a grounding issue with my cluster. all other gauges function just fine.

also, did you replace the fan clutch with a new unit?