I think I got hosed

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  • e30Troop
    replied
    No suggestions for an aftermarket pump to replace the in-line expensive OEM pump?

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  • e30Troop
    replied
    Ok, I must thank Mr Slacker, he's a plethora of knowledge and was able to get all these wonderful parts for me at a great price....thank you. Second, I finally got around to putting my nice DME in and the vehicle cranks, and I have fuel pressure once again. Unfortunately, I believe I am back to square 1 with insufficient fuel pressure. The car cranked beautifully, about once or twice it sounded like it was going to start for me! but it didn't and the battery started to weaken. I tried getting the fuel line off at the rail to install a gauge but that sucker is on there...then it started snowing again so I wrapped up today's work. What should normal cranking/operating fuel pressure be for the S50? I have the odd euro fuel setup with a sender in tank and only the external fuel pump. If it turns out to be a fuel pressure concern, what is a good external fuel pump to use to feed this monster? I am hoping one day to drive this damn car.

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  • e30Troop
    replied
    Thank you but mrslacker has one for me

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  • jrockbk
    replied
    I think I got hosed

    I haves a working DME with a euro tuning chip, it will run your car but the chip is wrong tune you will need to get a diff chip, I was gonna use this as a track DME with a track tune and keep my stock one for DD, it's a known working red label DME I'm willing to lend or sell to you to get your car running. I'm in nyc PM me

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  • 603Racing
    replied
    Listen to MrSlacker, he's got this.

    Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

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  • MrSlacker
    replied
    You have (had) Turner Chip 4131-3001 OBD I S50 with Euro HFM https://www.turnermotorsport.com/pag...ation_2008.pdf

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  • MrSlacker
    replied
    Using M50 Red Label DME is completely correct and right way of doing it. There are several DMEs that work, red label is one of them. It does not matter if you have S50 or M50. Chip seems to be Turner Motorsports from what little I can telll on that photo.

    Your problem is wet/frozen ECU. You need a new one and a chip. I'll look around to see if we have any of them left at the shop you can buy it along with door cards :)

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  • e30Troop
    replied
    Originally posted by 603Racing
    Holy hell! Find the right DME that works with your swap. Remember there are different s50 motors. OBDI and OBDII.
    Right, which the kid said it's an s50 from a 95, so OBD1. But I now question if it is a true s50, how can I be sure. Why would he be using an M50 325i DME in the swap?

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  • 603Racing
    replied
    Holy hell! Find the right DME that works with your swap. Remember there are different s50 motors. OBDI and OBDII.

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  • e30Troop
    replied
    The plot thickens

    Well, it seems I may have narrowed down the issue here. I had no power at fuse #11. I can feel the fuel pump relay clicking away while cranking. I removed the pump and manually jumped it, pump works. I decided to take a peek at the DME to find an icicle hanging from it! I thawed it out, but something got my interest. The DME is a red label from and M50, not the S50 supposedly in the car.....I looked on the forum to find that I guess you can do that but you need a specific chip. Well, from the looks of my chip, I can't tell what it is. I have definitely been mislead from the beginning with this car, the kid hosed me. I thought what I was getting was a decent shape car that runs like a bat outta hell, but now I have this block of ice. I'm a little pissed and need some guidance and encouragement. I am pretty handy and can do most anything on these cars. How much am I looking at for a DME and a chip, etc.... I also noticed under the dash this is an EWS car, the kid had the antenna ring with a key in it taped under the dash. I'm assuming if/when I replace the DME I need to align them? Also does anyone in the Warwick NY area have a DME for me to plug and play to ensure that is what I need to start!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by e30Troop; 02-11-2014, 11:51 AM.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtbag30
    fuel pump is fuse #11 if that helps
    Originally posted by e30Troop
    Yeah, its good. Thank you.

    Use a testlight to test to see if you have power at 11, don't dick around using your eyeballs to test fuses.

    Remember too that BMW does not "prime" the fuel pump, it only turns on when the engine is turning over.

    Power comes from the main relay, goes to the fuel pump relay and then off to fuse 11. If you have power there, you automatically know that the relays are both good, as is your CPS and DME.

    If you don't have a testlght, they are $5 at Walmart, in the automotive electrical section.

    GL!

    Luke

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  • jlevie
    replied
    The fuel pump relay is one of the three mounted on the left side shock tower. If the relays are in the factory configuration it will be the middle one. Well at least on US cars. an early Euro 318 may not be the same. The power for the pump does run through C101.

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  • Poeman446
    replied
    I was going to guess it was something with the Idle air control if it was hunting at idle, and the tear was acting as a (very bad) idle air valve. since you checked that you have no fuel pressure, I would check the fuses which you've done, and then check the fuel pump relay. Im not sure if the fuel pump relay goes through the c101 engine harness to body harness connector as well, but I would check that. Some wiring may not be done correctly on the engine harness.

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  • dirtbag30
    replied
    clogged fuel filter? replace it since its cheap and good maintenance anyway.

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  • nickmcc92
    replied
    Check out the relay under the black plastic cover next to driver side shock tower.
    Last edited by nickmcc92; 02-02-2014, 02:06 PM.

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