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Car cranking, but not starting(Now with spark!)

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  • spdracrm3
    replied
    Does your car have an OBC? another post with same issues http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=336715
    Originally posted by ST1G View Post

    So, I put in the new CPS, got it in there, got her all situated. No spark. put your meter on AC voltage and check across pin 47 &48 at ECU while cranking should have AC voltage being produced.see scope pattern below

    Then I get to testing. I decide to put the multi meter on the coil positive (pin 15), and ground (body) and I'm getting 192Ω I get the same 192Ω when I put the meter between the negative terminal (pin 1) and ground (body) This was with the ignition on. This still doesn't make sense to me, since if the positive is grounded then the coil wouldn't get the signal to send spark. you cannot OHM test a live circuit (ie voltage present/flowing)
    you can uses a test light to visually check between body ground and neg coil pin while cranking it should flash during cranking if ECU is controlling coil.
    understanding how a coil works will help diagnose ,for the coil to make spark current has to flow thru the coil primary windings for this to happen the voltage supplied thru the ignition switch has to go to ground this is done by the ECU the amount of time the current flows is called dwell ,with enough dwell time the coil primary is considered saturated and at the right time determined by the ECU using input from CKP sensor(correct spark timing)the ECU breaks the ground this causes the magnetic field around the iron core to collapse inducing a current in the coil secondary windings which have 100X more winding thus multiplying the voltage this voltage is sent out the coil wire and distributed by the cap to the right cylinders spark plug jumping the gap with about 10Kv thus ignition.if you put a test light on the coil neg you will see it flash as this voltage is present with no ECU grounding and drops away as ECU grounds coil thereby testing the entire circuit (voltage present ,yes ,light flashes yes ,ECU is doing something to control coil ) this cannot be tested with a DVOM as the sampling rate isnt fast enough (you need a scope instead)you might see the voltage drop down as the DVOM averages the slow samples but not a reliable test

    After a few attempts to get the car to spark with nothing I checked the coil again and now I get a millisecond of continuity between pin 15 on the coil and ground and then it goes to infinite resistance (open). Same with the negative.

    I then tried the coil from my running car. Same thing with the moment of continuity. No spark.


    I don't even know any more.
    Last edited by spdracrm3; 12-21-2014, 09:41 PM.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by ST1G View Post
    Haha If that were the case I'd have spark ;)

    That is true. Time to tow it to a specialist

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  • ST1G
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
    Maybe this engine has just gone caput.
    Haha If that were the case I'd have spark ;)

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Maybe this engine has just gone caput.

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  • ST1G
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
    Ah I see glad mine were last week. Finals suck.
    They sure do. All done. I got a 799/1000 in one class. 1 single point from a B. :hitler: I am still pissed about it.


    I'm kinda at a stand still with the car. I'm at this point where I don't know what to do. I might go to the two local indie shops and talk with the mechanics to see what they say. I know one has a m20 swapped e21 turbo. At this point I'm stumped.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by ST1G View Post
    It's finals week. I haven't had a chance to do anything on it.

    Ah I see glad mine were last week. Finals suck.

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  • ST1G
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
    Figure any thing else out?

    It's finals week. I haven't had a chance to do anything on it.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Figure any thing else out?

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    M30 over everything. Even though I'm about to do a 24v swap but I just need to scratch that itch is all b

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  • ohthejosh
    replied
    Im doing a m30b35 swap. Slowly but its still a swap. m30's just look proper in the e30. Almost as pretty as a s54 lol

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by ST1G View Post
    Hahaha you would push for that.

    Well, I wouldn't be doing a swap till end of January February anyway.
    You know it. If you wait then that mean you can source a good low mile engine and all shit you need.Your just giving your self a reason haha

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  • ST1G
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
    I could though. Cause it would be a new motor,harness,ecu and depending if you get from a parts car coil and other things. Plus now that you said m30 swap that's the only logical thing I can think of lol. I need to see a calypso m30e30 on some style 5's.
    Hahaha you would push for that.

    Well, I wouldn't be doing a swap till end of January February anyway.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by ST1G View Post
    I need to figure out why this isn't starting first I think. Or at least nail down it's not the existing harness. Otherwise the swap wouldn't solve my problem.

    I could though. Cause it would be a new motor,harness,ecu and depending if you get from a parts car coil and other things. Plus now that you said m30 swap that's the only logical thing I can think of lol. I need to see a calypso m30e30 on some style 5's.

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  • ST1G
    replied
    Originally posted by ThatOneEuroE30 View Post
    Works for me. Do it.
    I need to figure out why this isn't starting first I think. Or at least nail down it's not the existing harness. Otherwise the swap wouldn't solve my problem.

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  • ThatOneEuroE30
    replied
    Originally posted by ST1G View Post
    The only "budget swap' I would consider is an m30.

    Works for me. Do it.

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